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-   -   GFCI Receptical Trip? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/gfci-receptical-trip-72716/)

Giles 06-03-2010 10:06 AM

GFCI Receptical Trip?
 
I have wired many GFCI outlets and breakers. I have a GFCI outlet that is the first on the circuit and there are only two regular outlets that are fed from this GFCI.
OCCASIONALLY---once out of five to seven times, the GFCI will trip when the undercounter lights, toaster, mixer, or portable fan are TURNED OFF:mad:
All wireing has been checked and the GFCI has been changed.
This GFCI is in a kitchen close to sink and stove and I am wondering if a GFCI Breaker would work any different. I dought that it would but I feel it necessary to have these outlets protected.

joed 06-03-2010 10:53 AM

Line spikes maybe. Try moving the breaker supplying that circuit up or down one slot in the panel. This should move it to the other leg of the service.

Yoyizit 06-03-2010 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Giles (Post 450605)
OCCASIONALLY---once out of five to seven times, the GFCI will trip when the undercounter lights, toaster, mixer, or portable fan are TURNED OFF:mad:

You could check if the leakage current in the ground lead is close to the 5 mA limit; you'd need a milliammeter and a 10 mA or 50 mA fuse, to protect the meter or its internal costly fuse.

a7ecorsair 06-03-2010 11:10 PM

I think you will have to do some elimination. I assume most of the things listed remain plugged in all the time - yes? Since this only involves three outlets and happens fairly frequently, you should be able to have only one item plugged in at a time and then turn it on and off several times.
You said the toaster caused the GF to trip, is that when the toast cycle completed and the toast popped up?
With the exception of the toaster, all the other things would require someone touching it when turning it off.

Giles 06-03-2010 11:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by a7ecorsair (Post 450906)
I think you will have to do some elimination. I assume most of the things listed remain plugged in all the time - yes? Since this only involves three outlets and happens fairly frequently, you should be able to have only one item plugged in at a time and then turn it on and off several times.
You said the toaster caused the GF to trip, is that when the toast cycle completed and the toast popped up?
With the exception of the toaster, all the other things would require someone touching it when turning it off.

No, no item is plugged in all the time. My new undercounter lights are activated by a wall switch in a double box. About every fifth or sixth time the lights are turned off with this switch, the outlet trips. It never trips by turning the individual lights off by the factory toggle switch installed in the fixture. The portable fan is totally insulated (plastic). Yes the toaster trips the outlet when it automatically cuts off.

a7ecorsair 06-04-2010 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Giles (Post 450912)
My new undercounter lights are activated by a wall switch in a double box. About every fifth or sixth time the lights are turned off with this switch, the outlet trips. It never trips by turning the individual lights off by the factory toggle switch installed in the fixture. The portable fan is totally insulated (plastic). Yes the toaster trips the outlet when it automatically cuts off.

Do I understand you correctly?
There are two down stream outlets that are connected to the Load terminals on the GFCI.
You have under counter lights that are plugged into one of the GF protected outlets and you are operating them with a wall switch?

Giles 06-04-2010 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by a7ecorsair (Post 450993)
Do I understand you correctly?
There are two down stream outlets that are connected to the Load terminals on the GFCI.
You have under counter lights that are plugged into one of the GF protected outlets and you are operating them with a wall switch?

GFCI outlet is first from breaker box. Feed connects second outlet in double box where I have a switch, for lights and a receptical. Switch only controls lights. Other outlet is fed from this double box.
Sorry, I failed to mention that there is a microwave plugged into another outlet but the microwave has never tripped the GFCI. All recepticles have been replaced with new ones.

a7ecorsair 06-04-2010 11:06 AM

I'm confused. You mention boxes but that doesn't tell us much.
Your circuit should look like this.
Breaker------Line|GFCI Outlet|Load-----|Outlet|----|Outlet|
Neutral------Line|""""""""""""""""|Load-----|""""""""|----|""""""""|

You cannot pigtail and feed other things. All that should be on the Load side of the GFCI is outlets.

Giles 06-04-2010 12:25 PM

"I'm confused. You mention boxes but that doesn't tell us much."

I am not an electricial but I have always referred to the enclosure for a wall switch or an outlet as a "box":huh:
Not trying to be smart----but I am referring to the enclosure that is mounted on the wall stud.
Should I be calling it something else?
I believe you have found the problem concerning "pigtail", but how should these undercounter lights be hooked up?
I have lived in this home for a short time and have found many electrical mistakes of which I am adressing.
THANKS for helping:thumbup:

a7ecorsair 06-04-2010 06:25 PM

Ah, so we may be getting close?
The "boxes" don't matter as much as how the "devices" (switches and outlets) are all hooked together. GFCI can be picky.
You can wire the lights in parallel in the first box with the line side of the GFCI but my guess is the the wires won't reach unless you redo everything.
As an experiment, you could pigtail the downstream outlets to the line side of the GFCI and not have anything connected to the GFCI load.


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