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Old 05-13-2011, 06:17 PM   #16
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which GFCI to buy?


Just tested breaker to the GFCI. Breaker is fine. Holds about 120v.

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Old 05-13-2011, 06:49 PM   #17
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which GFCI to buy?


Trace line to first outlet, examine, continue until you find the loose wire.

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Old 05-14-2011, 12:03 PM   #18
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which GFCI to buy?


Going back to the original question, if you've got a potential 20 amps available to be going through the receptacle then I would use a 20 amp receptacle. I would imagine the electrical code would state that.
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Old 05-14-2011, 12:15 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by mike932 View Post
So I just replaced the GFCI with a new one. I turned on the circuit breaker. GFCI does not work. I tested all of the wires and there is no charge at all.

What do I do now? Replace the circuit breaker switch?
readar: The original 20a question has been resolved.
See post #3 above. The new problem is "no power."

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Old 05-14-2011, 01:07 PM   #20
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which GFCI to buy?


I am going to buy a sniffer today instead of using my multimeter. That should make it easier to find a charge, right?
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Old 05-14-2011, 03:42 PM   #21
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I realize the new problem is no power. But if you plug two 10 amp devices into the receptacle, is that receptacle going to be able to handle that without causing any problems (ie overheating)?
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Old 05-14-2011, 03:45 PM   #22
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I should point out that before the old GFCI produced smoke, it was triggered every time I turned off my barber clippers. In other words, I would plug the clippers into the GFCI, cut my hair, and then when I turned off the clippers, the GFCI would trigger, requiring me to reset it. Is this normal GFCI behavior when using hair clippers?

Is it possible the old GFCI was wired incorrectly when the house was built?

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Old 05-14-2011, 04:01 PM   #23
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Here is a photo of my new GFCI. It annoys me that the house builders painted over the wires. The ground wire is almost completed painted.

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Old 05-14-2011, 04:01 PM   #24
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Ok, I found out looking at some other posts that 15 amp recptacles have a 20 amp pass through and it is ok to do this, I didn't know that but I do now.
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Old 05-14-2011, 05:08 PM   #25
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I am going to buy a sniffer today instead of using my multimeter. That should make it easier to find a charge, right?
Did you get the "sniffer'? The GFCI pic looks almost normal to me.
Why is there tape on the black hot? To specify line in?

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Old 05-14-2011, 05:17 PM   #26
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I will buy a sniffer this afternoon.

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Old 05-14-2011, 05:28 PM   #27
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Another angle. Notice that there are 6 wires connected to the GFCI....

Ground.
Line hot.
Line neutral TIMES TWO
Load hot.
Load neutral.

I don't understand why the original GFCI had 2 neutral wires going into line, but I did the same thing to the new GFCI.

Why was it done this way?


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Old 05-14-2011, 05:36 PM   #28
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Am I the only one annoyed by paint on electrical wires? Or do electricians get annoyed too?
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Old 05-14-2011, 05:41 PM   #29
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I think I misunderstood your question. I put tape in 2 places....

I placed tape near line neutral so that it will not touch the ground wire when I shove it back into the wall.

I also wrapped tape around load hot because the wire was partially stripped when I inspected it.

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Old 05-14-2011, 07:17 PM   #30
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which GFCI to buy?


there should not be any copper showing at the terminals. trim your wiring so as to prevent any accidental contact of wires when pushing the device back in the wall.



I am wondering if you are sure which is which (line and load wires)

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