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01-31-2013, 09:04 PM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: MA
Posts: 536
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generator and transfer switch box
Quote:
Originally Posted by french_guy
Since it's "only" 120V, there will only be 1 x neutral, 1 x ground and 1 x hot wire, right?
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Correct.
There are workarounds that will let you use it with either a transfer switch or interlock - with limitations! Most are designed for a 240 volt feeder.
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01-31-2013, 09:09 PM
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#17
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Greater Detroit area
Posts: 200
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generator and transfer switch box
This is what I just realized....
It would be much simpler to have a generator that delivers 240V (2 x 120V)
Then inside the panel:
Neutral goes to neutral bar
Ground goes to ground bar
And conductors (Red and Black - 2 x 120V) go to the breaker (double pole) newly installed
Am I right?
If yes, i feel I should return my generator and get one that delivers 240V !!!
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01-31-2013, 09:13 PM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: MA
Posts: 536
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generator and transfer switch box
Yes, that would be easier.
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01-31-2013, 09:22 PM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Greater Detroit area
Posts: 200
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generator and transfer switch box
yeah.....I am looking at that model right now:
http://www.homedepot.com/Outdoors-Ou...1#BVRRWidgetID
More power for only $50 more....
This model is rated 5,000 W continuous and 6,250 W peak
And the outlets are as follow:
Two 20 Amp 120-volt 5-20R duplex receptacles, 1 TwistLock 30 Amp 120/240-volt L14-30R outlet and one 12-volt DC outlet
But to connect it to my main panel, I should use the twistlock plug, which is only 30 Amp....So how do I get the 5,000 W continuous?
Is it because the 30 Amps are split between the 2 conductors (30 A on Black and 30 A on Red)?
I am confused now.....
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01-31-2013, 09:27 PM
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#20
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: MA
Posts: 536
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generator and transfer switch box
The 30 amp twistlock plug is all you need.
The outlet can handle 30 amps at 240 volts which is 7200 watts
Your generator can do just about 21 amps at 240 volts (5000 watts) continuous.
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01-31-2013, 10:10 PM
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#21
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Field Service
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Chicago
Posts: 125
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generator and transfer switch box
Quote:
Originally Posted by french_guy
...So how do I get the 5,000 W continuous?
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The equation to answer your question is Watts = Volts * Amps
At a higher voltage less amperage is required for the same wattage.
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02-01-2013, 06:48 AM
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#22
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Greater Detroit area
Posts: 200
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generator and transfer switch box
I will go take a look at HD for an interlock kit
But I have a question: The breaker for the generator has to be installed on the top right corner of the breaker section in the panel
But I thought every panel were "divided" in half, with a left side and a right side
Each side being connected with 120V...And I assume loads are balanced between left and right
So if the generator's breaker is installed on the right side, how power will be distributed to the left side...?
Sorry if it sounds like a stupid question.....
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02-01-2013, 07:15 AM
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#23
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Greater Detroit area
Posts: 200
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generator and transfer switch box
I think I just found the answer to my question above...
Phases are arranged as follow:
A = 1,2,5,6,9,10, etc
B = 3,4,7,8,11,12, etc
So having the generator breaker on 2 and 4 will power the 2 buses
Am I right?
And last question: what should be the size (how many Amps) for the breaker if I go with the 5,000W (continuous) generator (and 6,250 W peak)?
Should it be 30Amps?
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02-01-2013, 09:20 AM
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#24
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: MA
Posts: 536
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generator and transfer switch box
Most all panels are staggered with the phases. It would be:
A-A
B-B
A-A
B-B
A-A
B-B
That way if you put in a double pole breaker you pick up both legs. Like you said.
Check the generator manufacturers specs. Normally, if you have a 30 amp plug you would use a 30 amp breaker. Don't base it on the peak. That's for temporary loads - like starting the refrigerator or some other motor. The circuit breakers can handle that.
Remember, the generator will have it's own circuit protection. You're basically just protecting the wiring. Use #10.
You may have to head to a real electrical supply house for the interlock. Make sure you have all the numbers off of your panel with you.
Good luck.
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02-01-2013, 09:29 AM
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#25
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Greater Detroit area
Posts: 200
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generator and transfer switch box
Thanks for all your detailed answers...and your patience
When you say #10, you mean the gauge of the cable I guess, from the generator to the panel?
I will try to find an intelrock kit....On my panel, it says "Lock kit: TDL 103"
But I can't find it on the web
Last option: Looking at the kit they sell at $150, it's only 2 plates of steel that slide together......Way too expensive for what it is (it doesn't even include the breaker)
If I can find one for $40/$50, fine.....Otherwise, I am seriously thinking about doing it myself
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02-01-2013, 09:36 AM
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#26
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: MA
Posts: 536
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generator and transfer switch box
TDL103 is not the interlock. It's a door lock, and it has been superseded to TDL106 - not what you want.
What others numbers do you have on the panel. Post them up!
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02-01-2013, 10:01 AM
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#27
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Greater Detroit area
Posts: 200
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generator and transfer switch box
Here you go...
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02-01-2013, 10:28 AM
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#28
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: MA
Posts: 536
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generator and transfer switch box
I don't see anything quick. It's an older panel.
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02-01-2013, 10:32 AM
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#29
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Greater Detroit area
Posts: 200
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generator and transfer switch box
Yes, the house is from 1984.....So I guess the panel is the same age
But like I said, if I can't find one, I will probably build one myself out of some steel or aluminum
I don't want to pay $150 for 2 "basic" pieces...it's way overpriced !!!!
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02-01-2013, 04:11 PM
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#30
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Electrical Enthusiast
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 304
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generator and transfer switch box
Quote:
Originally Posted by french_guy
Yes, the house is from 1984.....So I guess the panel is the same age
But like I said, if I can't find one, I will probably build one myself out of some steel or aluminum
I don't want to pay $150 for 2 "basic" pieces...it's way overpriced !!!!
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I had a Crouse-Hinds panel from 1984, and I was able to find a matching kit. But, like you said, you could make your own and probably save $100 if that were the case.
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