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Old 08-26-2012, 10:17 PM   #31
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Generator to Home wiring...


Thanks!
Yeah, I'll have some cleanup work todo...

Here's a pic with the doors mounted... had to push and work into the night as heavy rain was forecast for the weekend...


Todo:
A) Remount locking T-Handle by 90 degrees, such that mounting screws are blocked when handle is locked.

B) Router channel into white trim above doors to allow finger space to be able to raise hinged roof from front... and avoid pinched fingers.

C) Make hinged roof lock-able.

D) Add additional vent holes higher on shed walls.... 3 per side(?).

E) Add gravel around shed to mitigate rain water erosion.

F) Introduce conduit inside cabinet.

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Old 08-26-2012, 10:32 PM   #32
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Generator to Home wiring...


As nice as that turned out, you need to test it NOW before you go any further. Temperature is going to be a huge issue in that box...much more than you realize. But again...great job.
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Old 08-27-2012, 12:23 AM   #33
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Thanks!

I definetly will be venting the box more. Ran it for about an hour Saturday morning.... ( setup was way quiet, my pool pump's motor was louder than this thing... ) I found that the frame of the generator was hot to the touch. Not enough to burn my hand but hot enough to almost be uncomfortable. I realized, aside from the gable vent fan, there are no are inlet's high up in the cabinet. So, first mitigation step will be adding 6 additional 4" vent holes at the top end of the side framed walls. On the rear wall, I'll put two 3" vent holes (don't think there's enough surface area for 4" holes up there ) along the roof rafter.

After that, I'll re-test.

Also noticed that the thick plastic gas tank gets pressurized after running the generator for a while (hadn't really ran for a long time yet, since it was so loud). Kind of freaky watching the tank contract when you shut down the generator. It does have a warning on it saying don't re-fuel it while the engine is running and/or very hot.
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Old 08-29-2012, 04:08 PM   #34
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Ok, added more ventilation holes... 8 total, 4 additional, each side, up high.
Fixed the door handle, so screws are blocked in the locked position.

Turns out the generator already has a thermal shutdown based on oil temperature.


...getting there.
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:11 PM   #35
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Generator to Home wiring...


I see a gas meter in that picture. You know, you really should convert that generator over to natural gas:

http://www.propane-generators.com/

It only takes money right?

Last edited by Auger01; 08-29-2012 at 05:15 PM.
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Old 08-29-2012, 07:15 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Auger01 View Post
I see a gas meter in that picture. You know, you really should convert that generator over to natural gas:

http://www.propane-generators.com/

It only takes money right?
...and you can save a ton of money if it's your neighbors gas line.
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Old 08-29-2012, 07:38 PM   #37
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Generator to Home wiring...


break the 5 gallons of gas down into gallon container...windshield washer fluid containers work good,couple of quarts of the oil for the generator...and a 12hr run check at 6am run till 6pm do oil gas and get a feeler guage for that spark plug hang it on a hook in that shed.this one i did.... mount an emergency light above the generator..so it comes on when the power drops out..need to run 115V out to shed.forget all the venting holes just pipe the exhaust out to a metal rain hood to the side..hot air rises.i use a 1" lenght of BX and just inserted into the vent opening ...but consider that emergency light beats holding a flash light and flipping switches....had mine running thru Irene hit for 4 days straight with a 12 shutdown pit stop and restart.NOTE don't even try to fill it when running and even shut down use the gallon trick and cut the bottom off some big soda bottles for funnels.better reason for that emergency light also...how high is that shed?

Last edited by biggles; 08-29-2012 at 07:42 PM.
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:52 PM   #38
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I've got 115v gfi protected power running to the shed primarily for a battery maintainer... Funny enough I have an un opened battery backed led light sitting in the laundry room. Was going to use it to light up the circuit breaker panel.




Exhaust passes through wrapped (you can see the wrapping in the pic above) 1.5" flexible stainless tubing(cut to a proper length ) into a secondary muffler to quiet it down... as an aside, adding a secondary muffler REALLY quiets this beast down(!)...


Exhaust components are housed inside the shed and shielded by fiberglass insulation. Final exhaust exits rear of she'd via aluminum exhaust hood...




She'd opening is just tall enough for generator. Its a little under 4 ft tall, at it's highest point, about 5 ft wide, about 3.5 ft deep.

I'll be doing a long test of the setup this weekend. Already did quick check to makes sure wires are connected and the whole house HVAC is able to startup.

Things like a remote wired start, quick shut down, and a tri-fuel conversion are on the list of longer term projects. I installed 2" PVC to make these projects easier.

Also, not sure if I mentioned it or not, but this generator has pair of 12vdc 10amp circuits one for recharging it's starter battery during runtime. The other circuit is for the user to put to use.

Last edited by ngcreese; 08-29-2012 at 11:18 PM.
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:14 AM   #39
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Generator to Home wiring...


where are you located,and how are the winters.one question is why didn't you built a full walk in shed and mount that up on a stand.in a snow/blizzard and or heavy rain you have to pul that genny out to service it gas/oil/plug then put it back in?

Last edited by biggles; 08-30-2012 at 11:39 AM.
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:16 AM   #40
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Well, this certainly is no good... You cant have those conductors run in free air like that. And I dont see a grounding conductor run to the GFI.
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:30 AM   #41
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Well, this certainly is no good... You cant have those conductors run in free air like that. And I dont see a grounding conductor run to the GFI.
It's kind of hard to see in that picture, but that green THWN conductor is running to all outlets in the shed, grounding all outlets. Zoom in on that blue outlet box ( back side of the GFI outlet housing... and you might be able to see the ground wire peeking out from behind the neutral...)

The internal outlet is wired to be down-stream of the GFI outlet (that's on the outside wall within that transparent covering).

While Neutral and Ground are bonded at my circuit breaker box, I've pulled separate neutrals for the Gen-> house and House -> Gen circuits. With a common #6 THWN ground conductor shared between them.

Placing these THWN wires inside flex-conduit, inside the shed is on my Todo list. Meanwhile, they're clamped down, even more so than in that pic.

Last edited by ngcreese; 08-30-2012 at 11:39 AM.
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:32 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by ngcreese View Post

Placing these THWN wires inside flex-conduit, inside the shed is on my Todo list. Menawhile, they're clamped down, even more so than in that pic.
Why didnt you do it to begin with? That makes no sense...
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:35 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by ngcreese View Post
It's kind of hard to see in that picture, but that green THWN conductor running to all outlets in the shed, grounding all outlets. Zoom in on that blue outlet box ( back side of the GFI outlet housing... and you might be able to see the ground wire peeking out from behind the neutral...)
You realize you need to bring a grounding conductor back to the source, right? I dont see a grounding conductor coming out of the LB that feeds the receptacles. Did you terminate it to a ground rod or some nonsense?
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Old 08-30-2012, 12:07 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by biggles View Post
where are you located,and how are the winters.one question is why didn't you built a full walk in shed and mount that up on a stand.in a snow/blizzard and or heavy rain you have to pul that genny out to service it gas/oil/plug then put it back in?
Located in MD. So if a snow-maggedon was to hit I'd be hosed no matter what... lol! But normally, a heavy snow would be somewhere in the 6" to 8" zone. Maybe a foot.

For Air flow, the shed's 2"x6" floor boards are spaced .5 inchs apart, sitting on a pair of 4x4 skids. This all sits on a bed of gravel that sits on top of finer paver gravel. So, the entire underside is an airport and water has a path to drain away.

There are 12 (6 on the back side, 3 on the left and right hand side ), 4" ventilation ports, low on the cabinet. Plus an additional 8 high up on the shed walls for additional flow, plus to allow for convection flow when the unit's shut down and there's no active cooling. Active cooling handled on back via 1540 CFM gable vent fan on a thermostat set at 70 degrees.

Exhaust ports are mounted high to avoid potential blockage.

This shed is on what is almost the highest point on the property, and along a vented fence line, with bushes on the other side of the fence. There should be enough natural guards to avoid air flow blockage. Also the ground falls away from one side of the shed, at a reasonably steep angle.

I had to consider for a long time how I wanted to orient access doors to this generator since there are "things-of-interest" on four of it's six sides. For example, the engine start/stop & choke are on the left side, the electrical connections are all on the right side, the oil filter is on the rear side, and the gas cover is on top... sheesh.

This why I have a wide double doorway to access the left and right sides of the generator in one shot. The roof is hinged, and has folding legs so I can open it up and keep it open for re-fueling, or just to get more air if there's a heat wave induced blackout.


(That's my dad... he digs a mean conduit trench!)

Since, the thing I would do least frequently is change the oil, the generator is oriented such that the oil filter is facing the rear. Also, the flexible exhaust tubing is long enough and the shed is deep enough that I can rotate the generator 90 degrees inside the shed to change the oil. with or without detaching the exhaust.

Lastly, as we already have a full sized shed on the property, we didn't want this secondary shed to be too tall relative to the fence line as to become obtrusive....



Last edited by ngcreese; 08-30-2012 at 12:58 PM.
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Old 08-30-2012, 12:10 PM   #45
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You realize you need to bring a grounding conductor back to the source, right? I dont see a grounding conductor coming out of the LB that feeds the receptacles. Did you terminate it to a ground rod or some nonsense?
Ahhh! the ground conductor is running along the back side of that 2x4 stud up into the l14-50 housing. There its connects to the #6 THWN ground connector that runs into the LB, through my conduit and back to my main circuit breaker panel.

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