GE Auto Shut-Off Timer won't work
Hi guys, I installed a GE Touch Auto Shut-Off Timer model # 15262. This is outside of my pantry. Switch is outside of pantry, light inside.
As per the instructions, the wire connections are as follows;
Timer= Gang box wiring=
Blue to 2 Blacks for Hot with single lead from end
White to 2 White Neutrals
Green to Green ground
Black to Black return
I get no activity from the LED lights, nor working buttons from timer.
Help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
i am not familiar with your timer, but...
1. your timer may be faulty, or
2. not wired correctly.
it is going to replace your light switch. assuming your switch box had: a 3 wire/jacketed power source coming in (hot - blk, neutral - wht, and ground - bare/grn), and, a 3 wire/jacketed wire going out to the light (switched hot - blk, neutral - wht, and ground - bare/grn). originally the 2 black wires went to the switch contacts for circuit control, the neutrals were tied together, and the grounds were tied (maybe to the switch and box as well).
think of the timer as replacing the switch, in between the incoming hot wire and the outgoing switched hot wire. that is the switcing part. now the timer itself likely needs power for it's internal circuitry, so there may be an additional black (tie to incoming hot) neutral tie to incoming (neutral), and ground (tie to incoming ground). see if this matches your wiring information, if not post back. i couldn't find any wiring info online.
More than likely you have the black and blue from the timer reversed. My guess is the black from the timer goes to the incoming power of the switch box and the blue goes to the wire going to the light.
Here's the wiring diagram for the GE timer.
are you ok with that? how many romex's (groups of 3 wires) are in the switch box?
The upper right section for wire gauges are not on my instructions, but everything else is the same. I got this diagram from another poster, but the wiring diagram is the same. I've got only 2 sets of wires that are wire nutted together;
2 blacks on wire nut, with single black lead wired out
2 neutrals on wire nut
1 bare ground
1 black single
This is the wiring in the wall box.
are you sure, that is 3 blacks, 2 whites and one bare coming into the box? how are they jacketed (grouped) together coming in. sorry, that is abnormal. also do you have/know how to use an ac voltmeter?
Yes, very sure. It looks like the middle of a circuit.
There are 2 blacks from the wall that are capped. Out of those 2 capped blacks is a single black lead that went to the original light switch.
There are 2 whites from the wall that weren't connected to anything. They are capped together.
There is a single bare ground that was attatched to the ground screw on the original light switch.
There is a single black that was attatched to the original light switch.
Put the blue wire from the timer onto the single black wire. Uncap the two wires with the pigtail, remove the pigtail and wire nut those two blacks to the black of the timer. Wire nut the white from the timer to the two whites of the j-box.
I'll try that... give me a few...
Brric, that worked! Fantastic! I was about to give up after this if I didn't get it working. Thank you guys for your help! I will definitely use this forum again! Thanks again! The new Timer switch is working perfectly.
Hi all, i bought this same switch recently and also have trouble.
The scenario i am using it in is as a replacement for an existing
switch that is in parallel with another switch at the bottom of the
stairs. Both switches can operate the light independantly.
The switch situation is this:
the bottom switch has the 3 sets of romex - 1 for source, 1 for traveler and 1 for the light.
i want to put this switch in the TOP switch which only has one set of romex (traveler) and
has the red, white, and black wires. I have not yet found the combination of connections
that will work. i do get different voltage readings based on if the bottom switch is turned on.
here are those readings:
Bottom Switch OFF:
RED-BLK = 120V
WHI-BLK = 100V
WHI-Red = 9V
Bottom Switch ON:
RED-BLK = 57V
WHI-BLK = 121V
WHI-RED = 50V
Any ideas here?
I believe my problem is that the existing 3-way
switch doesn't have a nuetral run to it and the
timer switch requires a complete circuit in order
to power its timer. (IE, the only wire that I am
switching is the hot as the nuetral goes directly
to the light from the source end of the circuit.)
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