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Old 04-17-2009, 06:59 PM   #16
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I didn't go as far as to take everything apart in the outlet to check since it was fairly obvious

My plan is to first drill the holes and install the flood lights with wires coming out into the attic

Slow down Skippy

One thing we don't do is assume.

You need to spend two minutes and take care of steps 1 and 2.

1. Remove the switch and see what kind of box is there and how many wires/cables are in it.

2 minutes

2. Take down the ceiling fan canopy and see how many wires there are in the jbox.

3 minutes

Once everything is installed, I will have the two flood lights attached by the electrical wire and one of the floodlights will be ran to the switch. I was thinking where you have the lights connected to the wire, there would be one that would be the hub for the other so the last one on the line will only have the one wire from the first flood light and the first flood light would have two, one from the switch and the other one going to the next flood light.
OK. I will pretend you didn't just write this. Can YOU even decipher it?

Just do steps 1 and two and I will tell you exactly, step by step, what to do. I don't want to lay this out and have to redo it when I find out new info.


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Old 04-17-2009, 07:28 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Yoyizit View Post
What size was the solar panel?
Didn't really measure them but I'd say about 12 inches by 8 inches. I can see later posts that don't think much of them and I can't say one way or another. Just pointing them out.
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Old 04-17-2009, 07:48 PM   #18
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EDIT****I had written some step by step stuff here but then realized that I forgot that you wanted your fan switched. To complete this I will need you to take a look at you fan and switch wiring. The basics are here but there are a few details missing. I will add them later.****

If you have only two wires (one black, one white) go to bottom.

If you have more than two wires in your switch box (one black/one white), you have constant 120V power there and you can install your floodlight switch in that location.

1. Take apart and separate wiring and use a voltage tester (black to white) to find which wire/cable is hot. Identify this wire

2. Poke a skinny screwdriver next to the sw box to see what side the stud is on. Poke to the side away from the stud to help see if you have room for a 2 or 3 gang box.

3. Turn off power and remove box. Cut the opening larger to help you accomplish this. Dont cut it to it's final full width yet. Stay within thetop and bottom planes so you don't need to patch. If the box is side nailed, removal will be easy. Pry the box away from the stud with a flat screwdriver being careful not to damage the drywayy on the stud side.

If for some reason the box is nailed to the face of the stud, you can attempt to sawzall it out or just cut/patch the drywall.

4 Once the box is out, line your new plastic box up with the stud, mark it accurately and cut the opening. You now have some room to get your hand up in the wall.

5. Go outside to the furthest light and drill a 1" hole in the birdboard where you want the wire to come out. If you just want exposed cable to come out, drill a smaller hole, 1/2 minimum. Securely tape your cable to a piece of fish tape at least 10' long (so you don't have to crawl back into the pitch). Push the fish into the attic as far as you can (it's nice to have two people for this part). Once you get ahold of the fish/cable, you can pull it over towards the first light.

6. Go outside to the second light and drill the hole. This is where you have to make a call. You can either run both cables into the switch box or you can run from the sw box to one light, then the other. If you want to run from one to the other, use you head and figure out an easy way to do it in onwe shot. It may be easier just to run two separate cables.

7. Above the switch you will probably have to drill a new hole. Make sure you drill it in the same chase as the sw box is in. Typically the existing holes are driled close to a stud so be aware. DONT damage the existing wires

8. Push the wires down the wall and pull them out of the sw box hole.

9. Install the floodlights

10. Slip the wires into the new sw box, slide it into the hole and secure it with drywall screws. Be patient and get it flush and plumb.

11. Make up wiring, Strip sheath cleanly leaving about 8" to work with.

Separate blacks, whites and grounds.
Wirenut grounds together leaving pigtails for each switch. Tuck into box..

Wirenut whites tightly together, tuck into box.

Install pigtails (short pieces of wire) onto the HOT wire that you identified earlier. These will provide power to your switches.

Bottom. This is a whole 'nother set of instruction. I will include them if necessary.
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Old 04-17-2009, 08:11 PM   #19
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This thread reminds me of whenever my husband says, "Why not just put another switch there?"
If I could only remember to THINK about what I was doing before I did it.
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Old 04-18-2009, 09:34 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Mike in Arkansas View Post
about 12 inches by 8 inches.
You get about 5w out of the panel, when the sun is shining.
With LEDs at night this would give off as much light as a 20w incand. floodlight, probably for about 3 hours.


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