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Old 11-30-2011, 06:11 PM   #16
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I'm now investigating the feed wire. Jim, i noticed you mentioned a 4 wire feeder. I'm looking at #4/0 aluminum wire: http://www.thegreathardwarestore.com...2-p/137007.htm

Which appears to be 2 wire. Would I then run two lengths of this? And - what size grounding conductor? #2 aluminum? One strand?

Thanks again to all for helping out.

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Old 11-30-2011, 06:15 PM   #17
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Here the poco runs the wires from the transformer to the meter on underground.
We then run 4/0 ser from the disconnect to the panel.
Do you have to provide the wire to the meter?
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Old 11-30-2011, 06:19 PM   #18
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Depending on where the service is located in relationship to the a/c and well(if required) I insatll a meter main with 4-6 circuits outside.
Here most services require an outside disconect.
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Old 11-30-2011, 06:44 PM   #19
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You would run one run of 4/0 SER for a 200 amp feeder to the panel. All conductors of the circuit must be in the same sheath or conduit so two runs of SEU is out.
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Old 11-30-2011, 07:02 PM   #20
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jbfan: we are talking about the connection between the meter on the house to the panel. In my county, Manatee, Florida Power and Light are responsible for everything right up to and including the meter. Their conduit, their wire. ALTHOUGH - to those of you looking to save some $$, they did give me a credit per foot to dig my own trench. It was such a good deal, I managed to save around $500 and still hire a guy with a back hoe to lay the conduit. Haven't gotten to AC's yet. I will be installing Mitsubish Mini Split units and have dedicated circuits to both of them. I'm guessing I need disconnects for these too.

Jim, Thanks. For the rest of you, I believe SER means Service Entrance. A "quad" is 4 conductor with bare ground. I found that here: http://www.southwire.com/commercial/...eliability.htm Scroll down and there is a green chart. And here: http://www.nassauwireandcable.com/al...e-style-r.html

Last edited by jbrantiii; 11-30-2011 at 07:15 PM. Reason: error and addition
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:39 PM   #21
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I'm in Manatee too (we'll have to exchange details, I'd love to get a look at what you're doing), and before you spend too much time picking your feeder I would call around to the supply houses to see what they have. They're pretty limited in cut-to-order choices, really, and if you order you're looking at 1,000 feet minimum I had big plans to run a cable as a feeder, but ended up running conduit and THHN instead since they couldn't get me what I originally wanted at a reasonable length/price.

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Old 12-01-2011, 07:31 AM   #22
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Hi Matt. I'm going to start calling around today for the feeder. Thanks for the heads up. I did just find out this am that FPL doesn't supply the meter socket - just the meter. So, add another item to the budget...

Also, Manatee county confirmed that a disconnect is needed before entrance to the structure for anything other than back to back applications. I need to talk with the inspector for the rest. Stay tuned.
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Old 12-01-2011, 08:07 AM   #23
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Spoke with Danny Bryant, Manatee county electrical inspection supervisor. GREAT guy. Explaind to me that after the disconnect (more specifically main breaker disconnect - not just a switch) the interior run from meter to panel is "as long as you want to". I'm sure there is a limit on this - but my 20' or so is no problem. He also confirmed the #4/0 4 strand aluminum will work great, but also recommended 2 #2/0 copper + ground.

New information - there is a maximum of 4 right angles allowed in the conduit run - or 360 degrees.
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Old 12-01-2011, 08:25 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrantiii View Post
New information - there is a maximum of 4 right angles allowed in the conduit run - or 360 degrees.
This is a rule for any conduit anywhere. To get around it, if necessary, you just need to replace an elbow with a pull box and do multiple pulls. You'd definitely want to want to do this even if it wasn't required by code. Pulling wires that big around that many bends isn't fun, even with liberal use of pull wax.

Good to hear that Manatee County is flexible. I've heard mixed reviews, but all from contractors who tend to have an adversarial relationship with all inspectors. I'm in the city, and I wasn't sure how much they'd be willing to help a DIYer, but they were nothing short of amazing. I tried to have my detailed sketch ready for the next project when they were inspecting something else, and the guy I usually got was more than happy to go over it at length with me, almost a "pre-inspection." It was a good opportunity to go over any grey areas I had with him, especially since he's the ultimate judge, right or wrong.

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Old 12-01-2011, 08:48 AM   #25
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Couldn't agree more. When I told the locals (I'm from CA) what I was building they all told me it would never pass, that I was crazy, and that Manatee County Building Department was terrible to work with. I COULDN'T DISAGREE MORE. Permitting was a breeze, only one edit because my engineer forgot to put flood openings in the elevations. The folks in the building dept. are helpfull and pleasant. Even better, many of them showed excitement over the project because it is something different from the every day, showing their love of building. My biggest tip for working with any agency is to leave your ego at home and listen. No one knows everything.

Thanks for the pull box tip.
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Old 12-01-2011, 09:00 AM   #26
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Folks, what do you think of this unit?

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=202276199&l angId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_sku=202276199&ci_kw={keyword} &cm_mmc=shopping-_-googleads-_-pla-_-202276199&ci_gpa=pla&locStoreNum=256

I believe this covers the meter socket and disconnect. Does anyone know if I can come out of the side of this for the feed - to avoid some of those elbows...
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Old 12-01-2011, 12:07 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrantiii View Post
Folks, what do you think of this unit?

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=202276199&l angId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_sku=202276199&ci_kw={keyword} &cm_mmc=shopping-_-googleads-_-pla-_-202276199&ci_gpa=pla&locStoreNum=256

I believe this covers the meter socket and disconnect. Does anyone know if I can come out of the side of this for the feed - to avoid some of those elbows...
That might work, if it has feed-through lugs on the bus for you to attach your feeder conductors to. If it doesn't then you would have to install a 200A breaker in there and run the feeder from that. Unfortunately, there probably aren't 200A breakers available for that panel, and it would be redundant anyway if there were. So without lugs on the bus, you won't be using that panel.
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Old 12-01-2011, 03:23 PM   #28
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According to ge, they come standard with feed thru lugs, so that should work for you.
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Old 12-01-2011, 07:07 PM   #29
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Thanks. I went to GE's site and found it:
http://www.geindustrial.com/cwc/Disp...CTS&id=lc-msft

So - looks like if FPL accepts this unit - this takes care of the socket and the main breaker disconnect. From this, I'll feed to:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

Any objections?
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Old 12-01-2011, 07:19 PM   #30
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The only objection is personnal.
I perfer to not use that many mini breakers, but it works.

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