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10-29-2009, 02:32 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Apple Valley, MN, USA
Posts: 828
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Exterior 50 Amp RV Outlet
I just bought a weatherproof 50 Amp RV outlet enclosure from homedepot.com. I am looking to install this on the front of my house near the front door so that I can plug in a portable sub panel in the winter time for the holiday lights. I bought the enclosure with the thought that I'd route the wire through the siding into the back of the box; however when I got it today I noticed it does not have a knockout on the back. It has one knockout on the bottom with sizes from 1/2" to 1 1/4" and an option for a hub on top. My initial thought is to just drill a knockout for the back, and install the clamp, drill the hole in the wall and attach it. Then run a bead of caulking all around the unit, and that'd be it.
I'd like to make this as simple as possible, and honestly thought about running it in through the bottom of the box via an LB but I am also installing a 20 amp outlet on its own circuit (since there is no standard outlet on the front of the house) but the thought was to run PVC conduit out the bottom of the 50 amp enclosure, along the wall and to the 20 amp outlet. Again this outlet would be on its own circuit, and I would just be using the 50 amp enclosure as a J-Box to convert from Romex to THWN wires for the 20 amp outlet.
I know it technically voids the UL listing to modify the box, but what would be the harm in drilling my own knockout for a 3/4" clamp to mount to the back side of the box so long as I seal it up with caulking?
Anyone have a better option that doesn't require running conduit and THWN wires all the way from the panel? I am of course using 6/3 NM and already had it run ready for the outlet to go in today.
The Outlet enclosure is made by Connecticut Electric Model: PS-54-HR.
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10-29-2009, 09:09 AM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Maryland
Posts: 42
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T85: There is not an electrician,technician, etc. that has not modified something to do the job at one time or another. I would do the same as you're considering. There will always be an item you'll need that the manufacturers have not offered. The ability to make the unworkable work is the mark of a pro.
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10-30-2009, 12:37 AM
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#3
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Idiot Emeritus
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Fernley, Nevada (near Reno)
Posts: 883
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I can't even think of how many thousands of times I've punched my own knockouts in electrical equipment. Most of my work is inspected, no one has ever questioned it.
If modifying the box violates the UL listing, then about 1/2 of the stuff I've installed in the last 19 years is no longer listed!
Go ahead with your plan, it'll work just fine.
Rob
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10-30-2009, 12:57 AM
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#4
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" Euro " electrician
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: WI & France { in France for now }
Posts: 982
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I am on the same page as Micromind was explaing I done that all the time in Wisconsin and in France sure I know sometime I will void the UL/ CEU listing but ya need something done in legit way like punch my own KO's I done that all the time.
Merci,Marc
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10-30-2009, 01:22 AM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Apple Valley, MN, USA
Posts: 828
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Awesome! Just what I was looking to hear! Thanks for all the responses! I'll try and remember to take some pictures to post up here when I am done with the project.
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11-03-2009, 02:14 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Apple Valley, MN, USA
Posts: 828
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Just got around to mounting and running the wire into the RV outlet box and mounting the box for the low voltage wiring (conduit fed). I have attached the pictures from the inside view, I can hopefully get pictures from the outside tomorrow as it was getting dark outside.
What do people recommend on sealing up around the romex into the RV outlet box? I was thinking caulking around where the metal meets the siding, then filling in the back side around the wire and next to the wood blocks with spray foam.
Also, what is the best way to seal up the metal J-Box with all the holes on the back side? I have some Duct Seal left from when I did my panel swap; would this be the best thing to use or should I just use some caulking to fill the holes in and spray foam the backside?
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11-04-2009, 02:57 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Apple Valley, MN, USA
Posts: 828
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Anyone have any reccomendations on sealing up the pentrations around the openings in the wall and the boxes? Wondering if Duct Seal is the best use for sealing up the holes in the back of the metal box or if I should be using caulking? Also, as I stated above, I plan on sealing up the backside with some spray foam around the holes and wire for insulation purposes.
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11-04-2009, 03:25 PM
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#8
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Licensed Pro
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SC
Posts: 919
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Duct seal.
__________________
"Life is hard. Life is harder when you're stupid." John Wayne
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11-04-2009, 11:28 PM
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#9
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Child Alert! Pull Up!
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 37
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Nicely Done!
 Ever see one of these?
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11-05-2009, 01:07 AM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Apple Valley, MN, USA
Posts: 828
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Yep, even used them before too. Though I don't need a full greenlee set on a regular basis so I can't justify the cost of the whole set. I just used a 1" hole saw to cut the hole in the back of the 50 amp outlet box, and a 1 1/4" (or maybe 1 1/2") hole saw for the wires to go through the wall and to allow room for the romex clamp.
Should the Duct Seal go on the outside edge (the side you can see in the pictures) or inside the box (facing outside)? I am wondering if maybe wrapping the j-box in the plastic box wrappers (not sure what they are called - they are intended for indoor outlets on outside walls and go inside the wall around the box and seal up to the sheetrock) and then use caulking only along the edges where the plastic meets the backside of the siding (rather than filling all the holes with caulking or duct seal). I'll see if I can find a picture of what I'm talking about.
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