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DIY NOOB 10-05-2012 01:36 PM

Exhaust fan wiring help
 
I had taken down an old bathroom exhaust fan to replace with a NuTone ventilation fan with heater and fluorescent light model# 765HFL. Im confused with the wiring. What i have out of the ceiling are 2 black wires, 1 red and 1 white. The new unit has zip tied together a red and white and a blue, black and white also zip tied together. For the light/fan i see to connect the black to black, white to white and the red to blue. The heater part is black to red and white to white, but i only have 1 white wire coming out of ceiling. Do i hook the white wire in ceiling together to the 2 white wires in the unit? Also does it matter which of the 2 black wires in the ceiling goes to which 2 black wires on the unit? Also there are no ground wires. Any input greatly appreciated. Im not the greatest when it comes to this stuff/handyman work, as i work in the sales world of Coca'Cola but any little thing i do makes the wife happy. Thanks

http://www.nutone.com/PDF/InstallGuides/99044117.pdf

Dave632 10-05-2012 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DIY NOOB (Post 1024404)
I had taken down an old bathroom exhaust fan to replace with a NuTone ventilation fan with heater and fluorescent light model# 765HFL. Im confused with the wiring. What i have out of the ceiling are 2 black wires, 1 red and 1 white. The new unit has zip tied together a red and white and a blue, black and white also zip tied together. For the light/fan i see to connect the black to black, white to white and the red to blue. The heater part is black to red and white to white, but i only have 1 white wire coming out of ceiling. Do i hook the white wire in ceiling together to the 2 white wires in the unit? Also does it matter which of the 2 black wires in the ceiling goes to which 2 black wires on the unit? Also there are no ground wires. Any input greatly appreciated. Im not the greatest when it comes to this stuff/handyman work, as i work in the sales world of Coca'Cola but any little thing i do makes the wife happy. Thanks

http://www.nutone.com/PDF/InstallGuides/99044117.pdf

This unit is not designed as a simple "drop-in" replacement for a ceiling fan.

Do you have the correct switch (control unit)? According to the Nutone spec sheet, its Model 66V (ivory) or 66W (white).

Is this on a dedicated 20A circuit?

You will need a total of five conductors (plus ground wires) from the switch box to the heater/fan/light unit location. Since the circuit is 20A, 12 gauge conductors are needed. In the wiring diagram, they show this as one cable (12/3) with black, white, and red; the second cable (12/2) would be black and white.

DIY NOOB 10-05-2012 03:51 PM

My wall switch has 3 switches. 1 that controlled the light over the sink and the other 2 controlled the old exhaust fan- 1 to the light and other for fan.

I do not know how to determine if its on a dedicated 20A circuit. By meaning if the ciruit in the box turned off just the ceiling light in the bathroom only, then no. It turns off everything in the bathroom and in Kitchen as well. House was built in 1955 if that is any help.

Im just seeing if this is something that can be done on my own as i dont have a hundreds of dollars to spend to have done

Dave632 10-05-2012 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DIY NOOB (Post 1024472)
My wall switch has 3 switches. 1 that controlled the light over the sink and the other 2 controlled the old exhaust fan- 1 to the light and other for fan.

I do not know how to determine if its on a dedicated 20A circuit. By meaning if the ciruit in the box turned off just the ceiling light in the bathroom only, then no. It turns off everything in the bathroom and in Kitchen as well. House was built in 1955 if that is any help.

Im just seeing if this is something that can be done on my own as i dont have a hundreds of dollars to spend to have done

Yes, dedicated means that the only device that can be on the circuit is your Nutone HFL. If you put it on the existing circuit, every time someone goes to brew coffee or toast bread while the heater is on, the breaker will probably open. And you'll have neither coffee nor a warm bathroom.

To determine the rating (maximum current) for a circuit, find the fuse or breaker in your electrical panel that protects that circuit. There will be a number prominently displayed on the fuse or breaker. For typical house branch circuits, almost certainly it will be 15 or 20. (For a 1955 house, if it hasn't been upgraded in the meantime, I'm betting 15.) You need a 20 amp circuit for your HFL.

More experienced sparkys may correct me, but I'd say the easiest solution would be to add a new, dedicated circuit for the HFL, and leave the existing kitchen/bath wiring as is.

Where is the panel in relation to the bath? Same floor, different floor? How far (guesstimate for now)?

What's above the bath? Another finished floor, or open attic joists?

What's below the bath? A basement with unfinished ceiling (you can see the floor joists?) or a finished ceiling? Or is it a crawl space or slab, perhaps?

If there's spare space on your panel, I'd go for a new 20A fuse/breaker, new 12/2 wiring to the bathroom, and then up/down inside the interior wall to the switch box in the bathroom.

DIY NOOB 10-05-2012 04:54 PM

My panel is in master bedroom in our addition that was added in '95, which is a good 40ft away.

All on the same floor and house on a concrete slab. Above is a crawl space attic where i have to lay on my stomach flat as possible to even squeeze in above the bathroom.

There are plenty of spare spots on the panel where you'd have to punch out one of the metal tabs.

I guess replacing a very old and barely working fan isnt as easy as it was thought to be. This unit was just about the same size as the old one to fit right in. I guess now im looking at having an electrician to run wiring and a circuit just for an exhaust fan. Thats something i dont think i should even attempt. Ughhhhhhh.

Dave632 10-05-2012 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DIY NOOB (Post 1024521)
My panel is in master bedroom in our addition that was added in '95, which is a good 40ft away.

All on the same floor and house on a concrete slab. Above is a crawl space attic where i have to lay on my stomach flat as possible to even squeeze in above the bathroom.

There are plenty of spare spots on the panel where you'd have to punch out one of the metal tabs.

I guess replacing a very old and barely working fan isnt as easy as it was thought to be. This unit was just about the same size as the old one to fit right in. I guess now im looking at having an electrician to run wiring and a circuit just for an exhaust fan. Thats something i dont think i should even attempt. Ughhhhhhh.

How important is the heater?

If you could find a fan/light replacement, you wouldn't have to do any electrical work.

DIY NOOB 10-05-2012 05:46 PM

Heater isnt important at all. We only chose the unit because it was the right size compared to all the models in the store and quietness and CFM. Our other was extremely loud

The heater was unfortunately the extra perk that came with it


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