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Old 03-14-2013, 10:36 PM   #16
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Those old work ears can be removed.

The box should extend to the face of the finish surface, not the rough framing. The 4s box needs a plaster ring.

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Old 03-15-2013, 08:30 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcleanap View Post
I took that specific photo because that is the one where he said replace the box. That and a similar one. The rest were ok.

What are the 3 issues if you don't mind me asking?
Go back and look at how you have the wire shoved in there from the top and bottom. Those are the three problems that I am talking about.
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Old 03-15-2013, 08:54 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcleanap View Post
So I just had an inspection this morning. I was a little nervous since it was really the first time I did this much electrical work myself.

It went well, however he said he did have come back to check on a few things once I have corrected them.

Now that I have had time to really look at the few issues, I am wondering if they were issued at all. As I said, I was nervous so I didn't question anything he was saying to me, I guess in fear he would question more and more if I prodded.

So here were the minor issues.

1. Need larger staple for the 10 gauge wire for dryer.
2. Only one staple should be used per wire on some of the outlets.
3. He mentioned the one 3-way switch in the bathroom was not right.
4. The gangable boxes were not mounted correctly and would have to be replaced.

I have attached a few pictures and would like some feedback.

1. It says on the box for the staples that it allows for a 10/3. That should have been OK I would assume.

2. There is a photo of the staple on two 14/2 wires. Is this not OK? Again, on the box it says it allows for two 14/2 wires.

3. This was one I didn't want to question and at the time, I really didn't think of it, but he said that the switch didn't have a source of power coming into it...neither did the other switch. But looking it over after, I remembered that I ran the source of power through the light in a deeper box. Then ran 14/3's to each switch. Would that not be right?

4. The only one I am not really sure of and cannot find anything on it is the use of gangable boxes. I have these in a few spots as you can see in the photo. Is this wrong?

Thanks for any tips.
What size is the box? If it is 3 1/2" deep then it is the correct size as long as the wire is #14. Remove the staples from the wires coming through the holes and staple just the romex running down the stud. The cables entering the box from the bored holes in the studs do not require any staples ( in the USA anyway). Bending radius on the cable cannot exceed 5x the diameter of the cable so the cables will have to be re-radiused. This is all based on US requirements. Perhaps one of our Canadian professionals can verify this. And finally, loose the metal boxes and go with plastic as they are a lot easier.
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Old 03-15-2013, 09:06 AM   #19
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I am not arguing with you on this one electures. I am sure that there are more areas that need reworked. Not to be critical to the OP, but if you take your time to do it correctly, you would never tell the difference from DIY & professional work. Hurry up and try to rush the job, it just speaks volumes on poor workmanship.
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Old 03-15-2013, 09:14 AM   #20
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From the OPs first post:

"4. The gangable boxes were not mounted correctly and would have to be replaced."

I believe the inspector means the old work boxes were installed with screws from the inside of the box. This is a hazard as the screw heads can chew up the conductor insulation. I would replace the boxes with new work boxes (plastic if the AHJ allows).
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Old 03-15-2013, 09:31 AM   #21
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I am not arguing with you on this one electures. I am sure that there are more areas that need reworked. Not to be critical to the OP, but if you take your time to do it correctly, you would never tell the difference from DIY & professional work. Hurry up and try to rush the job, it just speaks volumes on poor workmanship.
Agreed
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Old 03-15-2013, 09:33 AM   #22
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bending the wire like that to fit it inside the box is dangerous. You should never bend wire into a hairpin shape like that. It says so in every electrical book ive ever read, and i read a lot of them prior to starting my renovation.
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Old 03-15-2013, 10:53 AM   #23
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Looking at the double cable under the staple again I see you don't even need it. The one cable goes through a hole in the stud. That is sufficient for support. You don't even need to staple that cable.
How is that gangable box fastened to the wall? I'm not what the issue is with it.
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Old 03-15-2013, 11:23 AM   #24
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Looking at the double cable under the staple again I see you don't even need it. The one cable goes through a hole in the stud. That is sufficient for support. You don't even need to staple that cable.
How is that gangable box fastened to the wall? I'm not what the issue is with it.
The gangable box is fastened inside. I'll switch out those boxes (I used 3 of those as they were deeper).

Going through the other areas this morning and there are a few places that had the tight radius....so will address those as well.

Got the official report this morning, and sure enough, it was the stapling and mounting on those boxes.

Thanks for all the input.
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Old 03-15-2013, 11:57 AM   #25
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I'm still not sure what is wrong with the mounting other than the ears being attached and proper drywall install being not possible with them there. Maybe he want them nailed through the holes at the top and bottom.
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Old 03-15-2013, 12:03 PM   #26
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I'm still not sure what is wrong with the mounting other than the ears being attached and proper drywall install being not possible with them there. Maybe he want them nailed through the holes at the top and bottom.
from the report:

ESA09 Rule 12-3010 - Sectional device boxes secured on one side only require additional support - ie.nails through both sides of the box.
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Old 03-15-2013, 03:25 PM   #27
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OK that's it. Simply drive a 3.5 or 4 inch spike through the hole in the top and bottom of the outer side right through the box and out the other side into the stud.
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:31 AM   #28
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Well, the inspection passed, but he still wanted to see all areas with 1 staple on 2 wires switched to 1 staple and 1 wire. I only had a few like that, so I will switch them out. Thought for sure that it was legal though.
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Old 03-18-2013, 06:00 PM   #29
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Well, the inspection passed, but he still wanted to see all areas with 1 staple on 2 wires switched to 1 staple and 1 wire. I only had a few like that, so I will switch them out. Thought for sure that it was legal though.
I know on some of the boxes it says you can do two under one; I don't know what the NEC says about it though......
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:57 PM   #30
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The code says this from the ESA site.
Quote:
Question
How many non-metallic sheathed cables (NMD90) are permitted under one staple?
Answer

Staples may only support one cable unless the staple is approved for supporting more in which case you can support as many as the staple is approved for.

If a staple is approved for supporting more than one cable, then that information will generally be found on the staple packaging material.

Rules 2-034, 12-508.

Ontario Electrical Safety Code 25th Edition/2012
Although most inspectors like to see one cable per staple.

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