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Old 06-03-2013, 07:39 PM   #16
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Equipment Bonding Jumper


Service point- the point of connection between the utility and the premises wiring (at the meter).

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Old 06-03-2013, 07:44 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by mm11 View Post
Service point- the point of connection between the utility and the premises wiring (at the meter).
Okay, so just to clarify - since my condo does not physically have the meter inside of it (only the panel box), an equipment bonding jumper should not be needed, like brric suggested?
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Old 06-03-2013, 08:00 PM   #18
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Equipment Bonding Jumper


Since the raceway contains the feeder and not service entrance conductors, no bonding jumper is required. The raceway is an approved grounding means. Tell the HI not to quit his day job. Idiot.
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Old 06-03-2013, 08:05 PM   #19
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Since the raceway contains the feeder and not service entrance conductors, no bonding jumper is required. The raceway is an approved grounding means. Tell the HI not to quit his day job. Idiot.
Good to know, thanks! Judging by the name, I take it that "service entrance conductors" would actually appear at the service point, hence what mm11 indicated about the bonding jumper being necessary in such a case?

Could you also let me know your take on why I'm seeing voltage on the wires in my bathroom in spite of all circuit breakers being engaged?
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Old 06-03-2013, 09:16 PM   #20
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Equipment Bonding Jumper


That is a Sub-Panel. Somewhere there is a Main breaker panel. Your Home Inspector is an idiot and should be reported in trying to be a licensed electrician. I would be curious as to what other stuff they called out, that they did not have a clue about.
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Old 06-03-2013, 09:58 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by skyfx View Post

Could you also let me know your take on why I'm seeing voltage on the wires in my bathroom in spite of all circuit breakers being engaged?
I think I read the thread correctly and did not miss any info, but I have no idea what that non-contact tester from commercial/ harborfreight does.

I might suggest just get a MM (multimeter), probably an analog... it's cheaper and avoids ghost voltage readings a little better, and test whether you really have a live line.

Take it from there....

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Late EDIT: Greg mentioned it below this post, but you did mean your breaker was dis-engaged... not engaged. You had explained this earlier in a post, so I did nor mentioj it.
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Old 06-03-2013, 10:51 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyfx View Post
Good to know, thanks! Judging by the name, I take it that "service entrance conductors" would actually appear at the service point, hence what mm11 indicated about the bonding jumper being necessary in such a case?

Could you also let me know your take on why I'm seeing voltage on the wires in my bathroom in spite of all circuit breakers being engaged?
What do you mean by engaged? If they are on, you will have electricity flowing to the circuit. If the breaker is off, there will not be any electricity flowing to the circuit.

If you are using a non-contact, or "Inductance" type tester, they work off the magnetic field generated by the electricity flowing through a circuit. Sort of how a magnet generates a small electric field around it, when you have another magnet near it. You move the two magnets back and forth fast enough, with a loop of wire connected between them, to a small flashlight bulb, you will actually light up the light bulb. Same concept as those non-contacts.

One of a few tools I have for checking to figure out which romex is the one that I killed, when I am in my basement, due to still have not marked the breakers after moving circuits around from the Kitchen remodel.

You really need one of these http://www.lowes.com/pd_218710-1781-...sales_dollar|1 if you want to check if the outlet or circuit is live, if you have multiple feeds into a box.
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:40 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by MTN REMODEL LLC View Post
I think I read the thread correctly and did not miss any info, but I have no idea what that non-contact tester from commercial/ harborfreight does.

I might suggest just get a MM (multimeter), probably an analog... it's cheaper and avoids ghost voltage readings a little better, and test whether you really have a live line.

Take it from there....

Best

Late EDIT: Greg mentioned it below this post, but you did mean your breaker was dis-engaged... not engaged. You had explained this earlier in a post, so I did nor mentioj it.
Dis-engaged is what I meant then, sorry. I figured when a circuit breaker is engaged the circuit is broken, but I guess my logic was flawed.

The tester I was using can be seen here - Electrical Newbie - Voltage Tester has "O" "L" "H" Settings - Not sure if wire is hot - but I will try getting a multimeter so I can better tell what's going on. Thanks for the advice.

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