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Electronic Timer Switch

3K views 14 replies 7 participants last post by  Goose1 
#1 ·
I installed an Intermatic brand programmable timer switch to operate some outside house lights (2 CFLs, total 30 watts). The thing worked for a few months and then became non-operational. I just realized that the sticker on the back of the timer switch states "max load ratings: 15 amp, 120 vac", and the circuit I installed it on is 20 amps. Is this why the switched failed? If so, why did it work for a few months? I thought 'load' was the amount of power needed to operate whatever is downstream of the switch, in this case my outside lights, which is under one amp?

Thanks!
 
#4 ·
I installed an Intermatic brand programmable timer switch to operate some outside house lights (2 CFLs, total 30 watts).
Was the switch designed to control CFL's? Did it have a neutral connection? Intermatic makes one digital timer switch that controls CFL's but has no neutral connection. It uses batteries that need to be replaced every few months. Check your batteries.
 
#5 ·
I have the same timer on a different circuit that has been controlling CFLs without problem for many years (I change the battery once a year). That circuit is 15 amp. The timer has a neutral connection, which was connected to the neutral wire in the j-box. When the timer when bad, the screen read "NO-OP" and I couldn't operate the lights manually or get the screen to clear. I changed the battery but still didn't work.

I was hoping it was going to be as simple as switching out the 20 amp breaker for a 15 amp. Any other suggestions? Thanks for the help.
 
#8 ·
pretty sure he meant timer.

you got a bad timer, it happens, especially with digital equipment. If you have set on and off times then maybe an old school "dial" analog timer is your best choice. They tend to last for a long time. If not i would look into the product warranty. It should be good for around 6 months i would think. If it was a used timer then it was just a crap shoot on how long it would last anyways.
 
#12 ·
Sure. The 15 amp spec is what the timer is rated for ie: the maximum load it can handle. It has no bearing on the amperage of the circuit it is on, only the amperage of the load....understand?
 
#13 ·
Because "Amps" on the circuit isn't what is flowing. Your 20A circuit is protected to not exceed 20A. It can run at 0.00001A if that is all the load put on it. So the switch is also rated to a maximum current as well, in your case 15A. Unless you loaded the switch to 15-20A then it should handle any other load 24x7. Switches are also over designed with a safety margin so it is unlikely a switch loaded just past its rating load (say 19A) will automatically fail.

Your problem is either the switch has failed due to random failure (mechanical or electrical component) has failed inside it. Or this switch needs to seem some resistive load for the electronics to work properly (the electronic power supply inside the switch steals a little current all the time to power the timer electronics, older designs needed to see a resistive load to work properly). Ballast only CFC loads may be a problem for these older switches. This is why I suggested changing one bulb to conventional incandescent just to see if it magically fixes the switch. If it doesn't all you wasted is a minute or two of your time to try it.
 
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