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Old 05-27-2012, 06:06 PM   #16
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Electricity for Shed


the 8 is just needed to reduce voltage drop for the distance from the house to the shed. i would switch back to 12 once it enters the shed -- unless you are buying the 8 in say 200 foot rolls, then no need to waste wire. might be hard to attach 8 to receptacles and switches though

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Old 05-27-2012, 06:16 PM   #17
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A disconnect is required at the out building anyway, so a perfect place to reduce wire size for the interior wiring.
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Old 05-27-2012, 06:34 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by kevinp22
the 8 is just needed to reduce voltage drop for the distance from the house to the shed. i would switch back to 12 once it enters the shed -- unless you are buying the 8 in say 200 foot rolls, then no need to waste wire. might be hard to attach 8 to receptacles and switches though
Thanks, good point, how do I disconnect, assuming just inside wherever the 8/2 wire comes into the shed?


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A disconnect is required at the out building anyway, so a perfect place to reduce wire size for the interior wiring.
But not a junction box on the outside,correct?
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Old 05-27-2012, 06:37 PM   #19
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Thanks, good point, how do I disconnect, assuming just inside wherever the 8/2 wire comes into the shed?




But not a junction box on the outside,correct?
You can do a junction box, but a disconnect is required either inside or outside of the structure at the nearest point of entrance of the conductors.
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Old 05-27-2012, 07:40 PM   #20
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Electricity for Shed


A single or double pole switch could satisfy for a disconnect.
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:32 PM   #21
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A single or double pole switch could satisfy for a disconnect.
So just a simple single pole switch that kills the main power coming into the shed? Must it be at the closest point to entry? For instance lid I enter on the side the disconnect must also be on the side?
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Old 05-27-2012, 10:45 PM   #22
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A single or double pole switch could satisfy for a disconnect.
The sad part is, that should be all that is needed, unfortunately, the disconnect has to be suitable for service equipment.
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Old 05-28-2012, 12:09 AM   #23
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The sad part is, that should be all that is needed, unfortunately, the disconnect has to be suitable for service equipment.
Not for the shed.

It don't have to use the service equiment rated disconnect switch for this purpose in the shed.

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Old 05-28-2012, 07:20 AM   #24
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Not for the shed.

It don't have to use the service equiment rated disconnect switch for this purpose in the shed.

Merci,
Marc
Oh really? better check out 225.36 my friend...
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Old 05-28-2012, 07:33 AM   #25
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Oh really? better check out 225.36 my friend...
You had best read the exception to 225.36 as it specifically applies to an outbuilding in a residual application. A simple snap switch is acceptable.
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:18 AM   #26
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You had best read the exception to 225.36 as it specifically applies to an outbuilding in a residual application. A simple snap switch is acceptable.
haha, awesome, I've read that wrong for a long time, i was reading it as if you just ran a three way out to a building a disconnect wasn't required.
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:24 AM   #27
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Electricity for Shed


You can provide for the future (more electrical usage out there) by running 3 conductor plus ground cable underground instead of two conductor. You won't be able to use the third conductor yet while you are drawing power fromthe junction box back at the house with the 12-2 feed but later you can extend the 8 gauge wires all the way to the panel for 120 and 240 volt (or two allotments of 120 volts) out at the shed.
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Old 05-29-2012, 01:31 PM   #28
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That is a looong ways to pull cable through a conduit. Better start working on a plan!

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