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Old 07-22-2009, 09:11 AM   #1
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Electrical Panel Knockout Help


Greeting all,

I have an 26 year old Sylvania electrical panel with QBH Commander style breakers. Looking to add a circuit through an unused position. There are knockouts lightly stamped on the side of the panel but not deep enough to pry them open with a screwdriver or with a rap from a hammer.

Is there a trick to opening one of these KO or do I need a KO punch.

Take a look at the photos on the inside and outside of the panel.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-22-2009, 11:06 AM   #2
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Electrical Panel Knockout Help


Usually it is stamped out enough except for 2 spots on the metal casing
Tapping with a screwdriver/hammer at the one of the sides stampe dout will start to bend the blank
A light tap should start to bend it
If not then it's possible they were not stamped thru enough
I'd test a couple of the knockouts in that case
In some cases you need to drill out the knockout

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Old 07-22-2009, 11:12 AM   #3
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Electrical Panel Knockout Help


Take a big screw driver and a hammer or side cutters, put the tip of the screw driver on the edge where there is no tab, and knock the s##t out of it. It will bend. Once you loosen one side, do the same to the other. Then using pliers twist the slug back and forth until it comes free. Make sure there are no pieces of the tabs remaining. You will not get a connector in if they are still there.
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Old 07-22-2009, 12:06 PM   #4
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Electrical Panel Knockout Help


Tried giving some medium blows with screwdriver and hammer. It only seems to dent the panel side. There isn't much room between the side and a wall. I'll need a mallet in order to strike with more force given the short swing.
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Old 07-22-2009, 01:39 PM   #5
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Electrical Panel Knockout Help


Here's a pic of my knock-outs - Square D panel
You want to hit it 90 degrees from the blue arrow - where the red arrow indicates
The little bulge near the blue arrows are still connected to the case
I can't see this on your case, maybe they are not stamped out the same - or enough?

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Old 07-22-2009, 04:55 PM   #6
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Electrical Panel Knockout Help


Drive a self tapping screw into the knockout and use the screw to twist the ko out!
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Old 07-22-2009, 05:59 PM   #7
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Electrical Panel Knockout Help


Listen Please follow post number three (3).

That's all you have to do don't complicate a simple issue.
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Old 07-22-2009, 06:34 PM   #8
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Electrical Panel Knockout Help


If you are trying o remove the KO from inside the panel, you'll have to do what JB said, drive a screw into it and use that as a handle.

You are pushing it the wrong way if you are doing it from inside.
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Old 07-22-2009, 09:06 PM   #9
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Electrical Panel Knockout Help


Quote:
Originally Posted by J. V. View Post
Take a big screw driver and a hammer or side cutters, put the tip of the screw driver on the edge where there is no tab, and knock the s##t out of it. It will bend. Once you loosen one side, do the same to the other. Then using pliers twist the slug back and forth until it comes free. Make sure there are no pieces of the tabs remaining. You will not get a connector in if they are still there.
I second the (e) motion! "Been There, Done that"! I think we can coin a phrase. "One pound of EXPERIENCE is worth a BUSHEL of printed instructions". Really. We need both! (No matter what) Don't Drink and Drive!!! P.s.: My impression was (originally) that the BAD/DULL tabs were on low quality panels. But some by GE and CH have the same problem, sometimes.
p.p.s: they both look like twin brothers. Probably came off the same Stamping Machine...

Last edited by spark plug; 07-22-2009 at 09:12 PM. Reason: Adding some thoughts...!
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Old 07-22-2009, 09:19 PM   #10
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Electrical Panel Knockout Help


Quote:
Originally Posted by Scuba_Dave View Post
Here's a pic of my knock-outs - Square D panel
You want to hit it 90 degrees from the blue arrow - where the red arrow indicates
The little bulge near the blue arrows are still connected to the case
I can't see this on your case, maybe they are not stamped out the same - or enough?

I'll put in the disclaimer first; The following is not an endorsement of Square D panels. : I can't recall any problems with knockouts on Square D panels. It's a breeze to work with them...! (No matter what)Don't Drink and Drive!!!
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Old 07-22-2009, 09:37 PM   #11
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Electrical Panel Knockout Help


Thanks to all for giving a newbie some much needed guidance. I truly appreciate your help.


Art
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Old 07-23-2009, 12:55 PM   #12
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Electrical Panel Knockout Help


Success, the KO came out after some persuasion. The trick was to strike at 90 degrees from the bump not directly opposite.
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Old 07-23-2009, 02:24 PM   #13
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Electrical Panel Knockout Help


I think atw58's picture in post #1 was taken from the inside of the panel box, Scuba_Dave, I think your picture was taken from the outside of a panel box, therefore a difference in the thinking of how to remove a KO. atw-as posted, if you take a nice sized screwdriver, and a decent sized hammer, hit from inside panel on the panel itself directly next to the KO. Yes, the panel will bend a little, not much, this should give you a little opening to get a flat blade screwdriver in to move the KO down enough to grab with pliers to remove. BUT- you are working inside an electrical panel which probably will be energized, so be very careful. Getting a romex clamp in there sometimes is a PITA, so I use those snap-in plastic bushings, code or not. Good Luck, David
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Old 07-23-2009, 02:54 PM   #14
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Electrical Panel Knockout Help


Yes my pic was taken from outside the panel
I do pry mine out from the outside w/hammer/screwdriver
Maybe different boxes are stamped different?

Glad you were successful
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Old 07-24-2009, 10:51 AM   #15
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Electrical Panel Knockout Help


If you know what you are doing you can remove slugs from the inside or outside using the same tools I mention in my first post. The suggestion regarding the self tapping screw "InPhase" is a great idea. This could save some time and effort on a stubborn slug.

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