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ponch37300 09-23-2009 08:07 PM

electric water heater wired from j box
 
Hi, A friend asked me to help him install an electric water heater in his garage. The garage walls are finished with drywall and he ran a 10-2 to a single gang box. I've wired up a couple water heaters before but not sure how to run the wire from the box to the water heater? Do they make a plate that I can attach a peice of flex conduit to and run that to the water heater? Thanks for any help with this.

300zx 09-23-2009 08:27 PM

Can't seem to find them online from HD or Lowes.I think i have seen them there. I know supply shop should have one or Buy online http://www.garvinindustries.com/prod..._prodID_E_2012

ponch37300 09-23-2009 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 300zx (Post 331641)
Can't seem to find them online from HD or Lowes.I think i have seen them there. I know supply shop should have one or Buy online http://www.garvinindustries.com/prod..._prodID_E_2012


That's how I thought it would get hooked up but wasn't forsure. Thanks for the link.

Jim Port 09-24-2009 07:40 AM

Just use a metal box.

ponch37300 09-24-2009 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Port (Post 331807)
Just use a metal box.

The box is already there and it's drywalled. The box is a plastic single gang.

J. V. 09-24-2009 11:59 AM

You need a disconnect on an electric water heater. That means you can use the box you have, but you will need a 30 amp, two pole, single throw switch and switch plate. You must access the box cable openings for the power in and power out to the heater.

If it where me I would abandon the box you have and pull the cable out of it. Put a blank plate on it. Then take the cable and install a cheap AC disconnect. The disconnect will be less money than the switch mentioned above. Just run another length of cable from the disconnect to the water heater. Route it so it is not subject to physical damage. You will need three NM connectors, anchors for the disco, red wire nuts and about an hour of your time.

ponch37300 09-24-2009 12:57 PM

I wasn't aware that you needed a diconnect at the water heater, all the ones I've seen and the couple I've replaced just had wire ran to them and used the breaker to disconnect. Is that something new?

What if I can manage to cut the plastic box out and mount the ac disconnect over the hole andbring the 10-2 with ground in threw the back? That should work alright shouldn't it? Then you are saying I can just run the romex right to the heater from the disconnect? Do I need any conduit or flex conduit?

Thanks for your advice.

300zx 09-24-2009 03:07 PM

How far from panel is water heater is it within site ?

ponch37300 09-24-2009 04:48 PM

The water heater is about 20 feet from the panel and there is a wall between them, so I'm going to assume that if it's not within site I will need the disconnect right? I don't have a problem adding a desconnect if that brings it up to code, just haven't seen a water heater that has one. Maybe they added that to code in the last 10 years or so and the older ones I've seen/replaced didn't have them.

So now the question is back to how to hook the disconnect/water heater up. I'm pretty sure I can use a sawzall to cut the nails holding the box and thenget the box out of the hole. After that can I just run the wire into the disconnect using a romex connecter and mount the disconnect over the hole and run 10-2 w/ground to the water heater out of the disconnect? Also should I use seal tight or some other flex conduit from the disconnect to the water heater?

Thanks again.

300zx 09-24-2009 07:00 PM

You could put a 220v switch in (Is the box above water heater or below) If below you could fish a piece of 10-2 romex up and come out of the wall and use 1/2 carflex or greenfield to protect wire (with proper connector) We use Breaker locks here and the inspector passes them. http://www.bradyid.com/downloads/SMD...pleaseWait.msg We get them at the supply shop not that much $5-$10

J. V. 09-25-2009 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ponch37300 (Post 332020)
The water heater is about 20 feet from the panel and there is a wall between them, so I'm going to assume that if it's not within site I will need the disconnect right? I don't have a problem adding a desconnect if that brings it up to code, just haven't seen a water heater that has one. Maybe they added that to code in the last 10 years or so and the older ones I've seen/replaced didn't have them.

So now the question is back to how to hook the disconnect/water heater up. I'm pretty sure I can use a sawzall to cut the nails holding the box and thenget the box out of the hole. After that can I just run the wire into the disconnect using a romex connecter and mount the disconnect over the hole and run 10-2 w/ground to the water heater out of the disconnect? Also should I use seal tight or some other flex conduit from the disconnect to the water heater?

Thanks again.

Yes, you need a disconnect. It has been a requirement for a long time. Yes, just bring the cable into the disconnect and then go to the water heater with flexible conduit. That is how an electrician would do it. The reason for the flexible conduit is that it is not damaged as easily as NM would be. Plus it looks better. Professional. :thumbsup:


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