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Old 01-18-2013, 08:43 PM   #16
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P1 comes off one terminal of the overload protector
T1 is attached to the other side of the overload protector and then continues into the motor housing

T1 gets attached to which ever wire (T5 OR T8) isn't tied into t4 and line2

Last edited by RH913RH; 01-18-2013 at 08:45 PM.
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Old 01-18-2013, 08:48 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by RH913RH View Post
micromind
That creates a dead short since P1 and T1 are opposite ends of the overload breaker
You're right. I must be getting old......lol.

How about L1 goes to P1, T1 and T5 are spliced, and L2 goes to T4 and T8.

Rob
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Old 01-18-2013, 08:52 PM   #18
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that is how it would be wired for one direction
I have tried both directions, no go

T4 gets spliced to either T5 or T8 depending on desired rotation then spliced to line 2

Last edited by RH913RH; 01-18-2013 at 08:56 PM.
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Old 01-18-2013, 08:58 PM   #19
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If you have a meter, disconnect 5 and 8, short out the wires going to the start capacitor, and measure resistance between 5 and 8. It should be very low. If it's open, the start switch is stuck open.

The start capacitor will be likely more than 100 f, the run one will likely be less than 100f.
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Old 01-18-2013, 09:09 PM   #20
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how can I determine the start cap. vs the run cap.??
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Old 01-18-2013, 10:04 PM   #21
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If there are ratings stamped on them, the start capacitor has the higher f (MFD). Voltage doesn't matter.

If not, usually, not always, the start capacitor is physically larger.

If in doubt, measure resistance across T5 and T8 with one capacitors leads shorted, if low, unshort those leads and short the other capacitor. Short only one at a time, not both.
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Old 01-19-2013, 07:16 AM   #22
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Good morning
I will check the capacitors tomorrow, don't have time today.

If all else fails, I'll exchange it one more time, maybe three is the charm.
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Old 01-19-2013, 07:27 AM   #23
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Just out of curiosity, try it without the belts. Is the motor too small for the load and is the compressor locked up and/or tight ?
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Old 01-19-2013, 07:45 AM   #24
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I tried it without the pulley on it.
It's replacing a 2hp

Thanks for the suggestion
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:09 AM   #25
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I am doubting myself a little bit, primarily because I don't understand why the breaker is not tripping, nor why one of the electricians hasn't mentioned this, so I may be wrong, but I think that a 20 amp circuit breaker is too small for your application; maybe 20 or 25 amp time delay fuses, but it seems to me that a circuit breaker should be in the 30-35 amp range. Again, maybe not, but just throwing this out in case one of the electricians didn't notice that in your initial post.
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:37 PM   #26
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Hi all
Just to let you know, I plugged the motor into my table saw outlet, a circuit controlled by a 30amp breaker, and the motor started and ran like a champ.
I pulled the 30 amp breaker out of my main panel, and replaced the 20amp breaker controlling the compressor outlet with it.
Plugged in the motor, turned on the breaker and the motor started and ran fine.
I guess I'll pick up another 30amp 220 breaker, and 6 feet of 10 gauge wire, and rewire the compressor leg from the breaker to the outlet.
Thanks for all the help and advice.
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