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-   -   Electric Dryer wiring/plug question (http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/electric-dryer-wiring-plug-question-7671/)

SpaceCrawler 04-09-2007 06:53 PM

Electric Dryer wiring/plug question
 
I am planning on buying a washer and electric dryer. I currently have an air conditioning unit that uses a 250 watt oversized plug, which I planned to plug my dryer into. The fuse box indicates that its a 30 amp line, so it should be ok for the 30 amp LG dryer I'd planned to purchase.

The problem is the plug configuration on the wall outlet, which makes me question if I can use this outlet. The outlet has one hole and two horizonal slots, similar this one, which is a "6-30p":
http://www.westernextralite.com/images/630p.jpeg


However the common dryer cords you buy in stores have different looking male plugs, which obviously won't fit in the wall outlet I have.

I'd wanted to make my own cord anyway since I needed it slightly longer than the 6 foot length you can buy in stores, and I know I can buy the parts I need.

But I'm wondering is it possible to buy a male plug that'd fit the wall outlet I have (6-30p) and operate my dryer safely?

Thanks for any tips...

Sean

darren 04-09-2007 10:19 PM

The quick and easy answer is no.

I am guessing you will not be able to use the air condition line anyways.

Most AC units are a straight 240V volt(2 hots and 1 ground). There is no 120V so no neutral.

Dryers on the other hand is a 240V/120V(2 hots, neutral, and ground.) The neutral is there for 120V loads like your controls on your dryer.

So chances are all you have at that AC plug is a 2 hots and ground. If that is the case you will have to run a new line back to the panel and if you want you can use that 30A breaker.

If for some reason there are 2 hots and a neutral and a ground you can change the plug out and use a dryer plug(there is only one type for this use).

Hope this helps

Guy6794 11-14-2007 03:15 AM

this is a post that reminds me of my problem... i want to move my dryer outlet but its all interlaced through the baseboards of my ceiling so it would be easiest to just disconnect it from the fusebox and backtrack the wire through the boards but i dont want to electrocute myself taking out wired from the breaker :s so maybe one of you could tell me should i disconnect the power (hot) wires or the ground?

NateHanson 11-14-2007 08:01 AM

First of all, I'm not a pro. But I've done this sort of thing a number of times.

If you're uncomfortable with basic wiring, it's probably wise to have a friend help you out, or hire an electrician.

That said, I would think that if you are moving the dryer receptacle, that you'd just want to turn off the breaker to the dryer, test that the power is actually off, then remove the wire from the receptacle, pull it back into the ceiling, re-route it to your new location, and hook up the receptacle in your new location.

The above plan assumes that the receptacle is being moved to a location that is either closer or equidistant to the panel. If it's being moved farther away, you'll need to run new wire, or add a junction box somewhere accesible (I believe the attic would be fine.) If you have no experience with the panel, I'd recommend getting help with removing the wires from the breaker. It's not difficult, but not something I'd like to teach anyone on the internet for the first time.

Stubbie 11-14-2007 03:42 PM

Space Crawler

One idea that might salvage a little cost in your project is you could use it for the washer. It should be 10 awg wire for that plug, you could reconfigure the wiring in the panel (very simple) for 120 volts. This would give you a dedicated circuit for the washer and put it on a 20 amp single pole breaker. If you iron in the laundry this will free up some power vs sharing the ironing laundry circuit (laundry general purpose 20 amp branch circuit) with the washer. As long as the wire isn't smaller than 12 awg copper going to that receptacle you can do this. Just depends on if you can't another use for the 10/2 G you have now.

frenchelectrican 11-14-2007 07:08 PM

you may want to check with the LG specs to make sure you have proper plug for it and normally most new dryer circuits nowdays are required 4 wire set up i will paste the link of the common 4 wire repectale:

http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/wiring...0a_diagram.jpg

this is common 4 wire type for new construction and any other dryer circuit that be relocated.

this link below will show the old style 3 wire 120/240 volt repectale http://www.cdvkiln.com/NEMA10_30Rx100.jpg

Please make a note of this type of plug / repectale it is Legal for exsting locations [ you can not extend it or relocated this repectale per code ]

anyway back to the point if you want to do this what you have to is turn off the breaker for that A/C repctale and unscrew the cover and look at the wires [ please do not unhook the wire at this time ] and see if it have black red and white wire [ green or bare wire will be automatic there anyway ]

let us know it maybe we can help steer ya right.

Merci , Marc

220/221 08-26-2008 04:33 PM

If I had a 30 amp 240 volt 3 wire circuit available, I'd simply switch out the receptacle.

There is a technical issue here. Code alows you to install a new dryer on an old 3 wire circuit but since it is going from AC to dryer, someone somewhere could flag it.


Also....6 foot legal limit on the cord....actually....recep must me within 6' of the dryer....slight difference.


Other guy:

Quote:

i want to move my dryer outlet but its all interlaced through the baseboards of my ceiling so it would be easiest to just disconnect it from the fusebox and backtrack the wire through the boards but i dont want to electrocute myself taking out wired from the breaker :s so maybe one of you could tell me should i disconnect the power (hot) wires or the ground?


You have baseboard in your ceiling?:jester:

Turning off the circuit breaker will disconnect the hot wires. TEST it, test it and test it again. Tag the breaker so some knucklehead doesn't turn it on whil you are working on it.

Don't forget to test it :yes:


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