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-   -   Electric box secure at bottom, loose at top (http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/electric-box-secure-bottom-loose-top-169178/)

TrailerParadise 01-15-2013 09:30 AM

Electric box secure at bottom, loose at top
 
1 Attachment(s)
we hung a 3-bulb light fixture in the kitchen. We installed a new electric box, and nailed both nails into the bottom stud above the window. It was the only place it would fit. While it is sturdy and will not fall out, when you put the heavy glass globes on their spindles, the whole fixture tips forward, hanging partially out of the wall since it is only secure at the bottom. Is there a way to secure it from the top without taking off the beadboard?

We had the same problem with the fixture on the other side of the kitchen, and a well placed screw in the side fixed it. However there are no studs close to this box other than the one it is nailed into. If we screw through the back of the box, it would pierce the siding

TrailerParadise 01-15-2013 02:48 PM

1 Attachment(s)
This is how that wall is framed behind the beadboard. the black circle represents the electric box. so as you can see, the only thing i could nail it into was the bottom stud.

parman 01-15-2013 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrailerParadise (Post 1093905)
we hung a 3-bulb light fixture in the kitchen. We installed a new electric box, and nailed both nails into the bottom stud above the window. It was the only place it would fit. While it is sturdy and will not fall out, when you put the heavy glass globes on their spindles, the whole fixture tips forward, hanging partially out of the wall since it is only secure at the bottom. Is there a way to secure it from the top without taking off the beadboard?

We had the same problem with the fixture on the other side of the kitchen, and a well placed screw in the side fixed it. However there are no studs close to this box other than the one it is nailed into. If we screw through the back of the box, it would pierce the siding


Ahhhhhhh. I don't know. This is a shot in the dark.

Maybe try drilling a screw from the inside of the box. At the top. Placed far enough from the front edge of box that the screw will then rest against the backside of the sheet rock. the screw would act like a brace, resisting the pulling force because the sheet rock is stopping it.

Is it real bead board or paneling? If paneling type, maybe push the top of box in a little and slide a thin piece of metal between the backside of paneling and front of box.

If real bead board - screw from interior top of box into bead board like you did previously with a stud.

TrailerParadise 01-15-2013 03:05 PM

its paneling. Ill try putting something between the top edge of the box and the paneling, dunno if itll work but its worth a shot. Thanks.

And there is no drywall. Its just the paneling, nailed directly to the studs because of space allowance.

electures 01-15-2013 04:09 PM

How about trying a madison bar?

http://www.foxelectricsupply.com/Con...oduct/977a.jpg

eastcoastsparky 01-15-2013 04:10 PM

U could of built out that one stud offcenter of the window with 2•4's until u got it where u wanted it

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TrailerParadise 01-15-2013 04:19 PM

What are madison bars and how are they used? Ive never heard of them.

Sparky, i could have if id thought about it but i didnt even think about it. The whole thing about this is that i really dont want to pull off the beadboard because it is held on with paneling nails, and they tend to pop through the board rather than pull out of the studs. Once it pops through, i have to fill it with wood putty and paint over it. It took forever to get this one cut right, i really dont want to have to recut it.I would like to somehow fix this from outside the board. The most i am comfortable doing is unscrewing the bolts and letting the fixture hang from its wires. Cant take it out since the grounds are crimped together, but i can take the fixture off of the box to access the wires.

michaelcherr 01-15-2013 04:20 PM

I would have used an old work box. That being said, there are clips to secure an existing box to the drywall/paneling etc.

eastcoastsparky 01-15-2013 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrailerParadise
What are madison bars and how are they used? Ive never heard of them.

Sparky, i could have if id thought about it but i didnt even think about it. The whole thing about this is that i really dont want to pull off the beadboard because it is held on with paneling nails, and they tend to pop through the board rather than pull out of the studs. Once it pops through, i have to fill it with wood putty and paint over it. It took forever to get this one cut right, i really dont want to have to recut it.I would like to somehow fix this from outside the board. The most i am comfortable doing is unscrewing the bolts and letting the fixture hang from its wires. Cant take it out since the grounds are crimped together, but i can take the fixture off of the box to access the wires.

Madison bars slip into the wall next to the box and bend into the box and it pulls the box toward the wall keeping it snug

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electures 01-15-2013 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrailerParadise (Post 1094216)
What are madison bars and how are they used? Ive never heard of them.

Sparky, i could have if id thought about it but i didnt even think about it. The whole thing about this is that i really dont want to pull off the beadboard because it is held on with paneling nails, and they tend to pop through the board rather than pull out of the studs. Once it pops through, i have to fill it with wood putty and paint over it. It took forever to get this one cut right, i really dont want to have to recut it.I would like to somehow fix this from outside the board. The most i am comfortable doing is unscrewing the bolts and letting the fixture hang from its wires. Cant take it out since the grounds are crimped together, but i can take the fixture off of the box to access the wires.

Here is a pictorial. It is for a square box but hopefully you will get the idea.

http://www.mrelectrician.tv/question...disonBars.html

buddy builder 01-15-2013 05:14 PM

you can drill a hole in the back of the box at the bottom at a 45 degree angle to hold the top in. even if space is tight, you can do it. just a little leverage at this angle will hold it. if you are worried the screw will be too long just cut them to the length you need. i do this all the time when installing plastic boxes in existing situations when a clip in is not available.

Oso954 01-15-2013 05:15 PM

If you print a picture of the madison bars when you go to buy them, it will help. Home Depot and Lowe's should have them. But their people probably won't recognize the name.
They are also called battleships or F-straps. I think the official name is something like "Old work switch box support strap".


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