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Old 12-19-2012, 01:38 PM   #16
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Hello all,

Okay so I understood that the multimeter needed to be "wired" inline. Check. Well, as I mentioned earlier, personal issues play on my mind, and today was not a good day to be trying to troubleshoot the heater. I turned off power to heater, wire capped the multimeter probes to the black load and the wire to the element opposite white load (I just left the cutoff bypassed). Connected the red probe to the 10A port and, sigh, connected the black probe to the wrong port (not the COM port). Turned the heater power on, turned the dial to 10A and got a reading that settled at 0.11. I then realized I had the wrong port and turned off heater and multimeter and corrected the port error. Turned power back on and the multimeter to 10A and got 0.00. Turned off power and put wires all back together, to include the cutoff. Was going to call it quits for now, but decided I would check the functionality of the multimeter and check between load wires. I did this at the wire caps and got 0.00 and realized the red probe was still in the 10A port. Should have definitely quit at this point as my frame of mind was in bad shape. Switched ports and tried again. Well, some success - 244.7V between loads. Shut off the heater and multimeter and left the room. I ended up going back and doing a check of one more thing I won't even mention here, one that may have taken out the multimeter, or hopefully, just the multimeter fuse.

I thank you for all your help. I am where I am just going to assume the element is bad. As with any type of job, it is a bad idea to try something when you just can't maintain full concentration. I know the dangers of electricity (I used to work at a nuke plant and my brother was a lead linesman and a member of IBEW) so at least I was able to maintain a degree of safety and not try to do anything with hot lines. I will end it here with just a side note to any DIY's out there who may read this. Heed the warnings that many responders will give you, whether it be for electrical, plumbing, or any other trade related work. Unless you feel 100% confident and can maintain concentration on what you are about to do - HIRE an expert, licensed tradesman, trained worker, or anyone who gets normally gets paid for the task you want to accomplish.

Thank you all again.


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Old 12-20-2012, 02:29 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by TTW View Post
Hello Marc,

I would love a copy of that chart so if you would please post it I would be thankful.

Merci Beaucoup
Pas de Problem .,,

Voila le chart for you and the other readers.

This should help ya to memorized or refresher it.

The answer will be based on NEC ( National Electrical code ) or CEC ( Cananda Electrical code ) or ECF ( Electrique Code France )
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Old 12-20-2012, 07:00 AM   #18
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Buy a portable plug in electric heater for your son's bedroom. Likely cost about $25. Any portable electric heater has approximately the same energy efficiency as any baseboard electric heater.

You can do some simple tests to see what parts of the multimeter still work.

1. Using DC volts, does a 9 volt battery measure approximately 9 volts and an ordinary battery measure approximately 1-1/2 volts?
2. Using AC volts, do you still measure (approx) 120 volts hot to neutral on any circuit 240 volts hot to hot on a 240 volt circuit?
3. Using the ohms function, do you get zero ohms when you touch the probes to each other? (after using a calibration adjustment provided for this purpose)
4. Using the ohms function, do you measure at least a few ohms across the bottom and shell of a low wattage (7 to 25 watt) incandescent lamp?
5. You can probably think of other tests you can do. Be aware that plug in power supplies (wall warts, etc.) may deliver more than their rated voltage when measured at the loose output plug end, when not actually powering their devices. Also, an automotive electrical system usually measures in the 14 volt range when the engine (and alternator) are running. You can test the amperes function using a battery and an incandescent flashlight bulb, the latter typically draws from 1/4 to 1/2 amp. (Be sure that one probe is connected to the bulb and to nothing else otherwise an incorrect connection even in this test can blow out the meter.)
The good conscientious technician or serviceperson will carry extra oils and lubricants in case the new pump did not come with oil or the oil was accidentally spilled, so the service call can be completed without an extra visit.

Last edited by AllanJ; 12-20-2012 at 07:12 AM.
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:33 AM   #19
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I popped the fuse in my meter a while back, had to open it up and was able to pop the fuse out of it's little holder.

Rat Shack had a replacement.


#1 - If you don't know what you're doing - get a licensed electrician!
#2 - If you follow my advice and something bad happens see # 1
Electricity bites hard, and it could be the last thing you feel... Good Luck!
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