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Old 05-07-2008, 05:37 PM   #16
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DW Hook up


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Originally Posted by pcampbell View Post
Could you explain if we hardwire, how does the wire from DW to wall box, "pass" through the wall, into the wall box? Do you leave the wall box uncovered? Wall plate cover with NM clamp?
I take it the box is flush mount? That is, the box is inside the wall? In that case I install a box extension like this:

http://www.yourdirectcurrent.com/pro..._prodID_E_1993

Then a romex connector in this extension box. I would install a simple light switch in the box to serve as the required disconnect for the DW.

http://www.yourdirectcurrent.com/pro..._prodID_E_1206

Then a surface mount type cover plate.

http://www.yourdirectcurrent.com/pro..._prodID_E_2126

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Old 05-07-2008, 06:53 PM   #17
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DW Hook up


Thank you.
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Old 05-08-2008, 01:27 PM   #18
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Sorry I am not trying to be devils advocate just want to get this correctly.

Have a new line coming out of the wall will go to an outlet in the base cabinet.

Is the proper way to get from the wall to the base cabinet, one un-cut wire coming out of a wall, all the way to the base cabinet, or do I run a wire to a flush box in the wall, wire nut it and close it off with a separate wire going from box to under cabinet?
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Old 05-09-2008, 08:49 AM   #19
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DW Hook up


I just caught on that you have another thread going concerning installing a circuit with MC cable. I take it that will be the circuit for the DW? In that case, pull the MC out of the wall and into the base cabinet adjacent to the DW. Install a metal box with proper MC clamps. The box will attach to the surface of the cabinet, not be recessed. Your ground will pigtail, to be attached to the box and to the gound of the new piece of MC cable going to the DW. A switch will be installed in the box and connected to the hot wires in and out for a disconnect. The white wires will be connected to each other. The MC whip to the DW will connect to the dishwasher, again using the proper MC clamp. If you have more questions, just ask.
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Old 05-09-2008, 09:41 AM   #20
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Just a quick question about code. My electrician says it's local code to use seal-tite on any wet location appliance.
So the question......is it, in fact, code or is my electrician up-selling me? This job was done in Cook County, IL.
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Old 05-09-2008, 09:50 AM   #21
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Just a quick question about code. My electrician says it's local code to use seal-tite on any wet location appliance.
So the question......is it, in fact, code or is my electrician up-selling me? This job was done in Cook County, IL.
Check with your inspector. I don't see any problem with it personally but most of the time (in Chicago) you can simply use BX or greenfield (meaning, the sealtite is not necessary). Sealtite is usually for outdoor use, i.e. whip between an AC condenser and disconnect. If you do use it, you must pull a separate EGC in the sealtite.

Jimmy
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Old 05-09-2008, 10:37 AM   #22
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Check with your inspector. I don't see any problem with it personally but most of the time (in Chicago) you can simply use BX or greenfield (meaning, the sealtite is not necessary). Sealtite is usually for outdoor use, i.e. whip between an AC condenser and disconnect. If you do use it, you must pull a separate EGC in the sealtite.

Jimmy
No permit on this job. The connection was existing. All he did was change the existing BX to the seal-tite. There is a separate ground wire coming out of the whip. However are you saying it needs to terminate elsewhere than the box? In that case, I would assume we're talking permits, inspections.....

Sorry to high jack but I was wondering about the necessity of seal-tite.
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Old 05-09-2008, 01:29 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by jrclen View Post
I just caught on that you have another thread going concerning installing a circuit with MC cable. I take it that will be the circuit for the DW? In that case, pull the MC out of the wall and into the base cabinet adjacent to the DW. Install a metal box with proper MC clamps. The box will attach to the surface of the cabinet, not be recessed. Your ground will pigtail, to be attached to the box and to the gound of the new piece of MC cable going to the DW. A switch will be installed in the box and connected to the hot wires in and out for a disconnect. The white wires will be connected to each other. The MC whip to the DW will connect to the dishwasher, again using the proper MC clamp. If you have more questions, just ask.
First of all thank you for all of your responses. I am probably making this more complicated than it needs to be. I am wondering what should exist where wire leaves wall (nothing?). At this point in the wall , it will be behind the dishwasher. The plan was for BX is going to go into a surface mount box (where I do have the specific BX clamp) underneath the sink base cabinet with 2 non GFI outlets. I was going to run an appliance cord from each appliance (DW which is approved for this, and is 9.6 amps, via a 14 ga cable approved for up to 15 amps and disposal, actually disposal to air actuator thingy) to this box. I think I am clear on that part!
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Old 05-09-2008, 03:31 PM   #24
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DW Hook up


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Originally Posted by angus242 View Post
No permit on this job. The connection was existing. All he did was change the existing BX to the seal-tite. There is a separate ground wire coming out of the whip. However are you saying it needs to terminate elsewhere than the box? In that case, I would assume we're talking permits, inspections.....

Sorry to high jack but I was wondering about the necessity of seal-tite.
Sorry, I didn't realize that you already had the separate ground (your electrician must have installed). It only needs to be connected at the boxes at either end of the sealtite. The same is true for greenfield (i.e. you pull a ground wire in addition to the circuit conductors).
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Old 05-10-2008, 10:39 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by pcampbell View Post
Th

First of all thank you for all of your responses. I am probably making this more complicated than it needs to be. I am wondering what should exist where wire leaves wall (nothing?). At this point in the wall , it will be behind the dishwasher. The plan was for BX is going to go into a surface mount box (where I do have the specific BX clamp) underneath the sink base cabinet with 2 non GFI outlets. I was going to run an appliance cord from each appliance (DW which is approved for this, and is 9.6 amps, via a 14 ga cable approved for up to 15 amps and disposal, actually disposal to air actuator thingy) to this box. I think I am clear on that part!
You don't need anything where the flex comes out of the wall. I would put a clamp or two along the wall. One must be within 12" of the box.

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