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Old 04-30-2013, 09:27 PM   #16
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Silly question - what's wrong with the original receptacle?

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Old 04-30-2013, 09:27 PM   #17
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you know,99% of the sections of this forum (carpentry,plumbing etc.) have actually provided me with some good info, but this one (electrical) is the "pits"! must be that electricians in general are a pain!
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Old 04-30-2013, 09:33 PM   #18
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well,for me it IS that easy since I'm not licensed and have to answer to an innspector.

tnx,
Guys, i think he is saying he DOES have to answer to an inspector, so he wants to do it correctly.
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Old 04-30-2013, 09:37 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by analogmusicman View Post
you know,99% of the sections of this forum (carpentry,plumbing etc.) have actually provided me with some good info, but this one (electrical) is the "pits"! must be that electricians in general are a pain!
Then just do it however you want to and stop coming to this section
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:37 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by analogmusicman View Post
you know,99% of the sections of this forum (carpentry,plumbing etc.) have actually provided me with some good info, but this one (electrical) is the "pits"! must be that electricians in general are a pain!
I know, right? These guys are such a pain always using their spare time to give free advice to people like you who constantly ignore their good advice in favor of whatever nonsensical/dangerous conclusion they've already come to before even making their OP. Yeah, there's definitely no chance at all that you're the pain in this situation.

/sarcasm

I learn on a daily basis just perusing the discussions in this section. I don't know why it's so hard for you.
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Old 05-01-2013, 12:26 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by analogmusicman View Post
if you'll notice in the original post I asked which of 2 options I should take,not whether this is ok

tnx,
I will give you my option on this one .,,

The oringal 10-2 NM is not legit at all for dryer purpose due the bare conductor is not rated for current carry conductor at all.

I have see few like that before and the only way to make it legit is replace that NM cable with correct 10-3 avce ( with ) ground.

Now next question for ya if ya want to do this in correct way how far is the dryer recepetale is from the breaker box ? if a very short span it is not super hard to fish in the replacement cable however let me give you a head up the 10-3 NM cable is genrally larger than 10-2 cable will be due it will be round instead of flat so the killer will be cable staples in the wall that will stop them in track.

You may have to punch couple holes in the wall ( not very big something like 4X4 inch size useally do it in most case ) depending on which way the cable runs.

Merci,
Marc
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:37 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by secutanudu View Post
Silly question - what's wrong with the original receptacle?
It is not the receptacle that was wrong in the original installation, it is the cabling method. NM cabling using the ground as the neutral was never allowed, SE cable with 2 hots and a neutral would have been the proper choice.
If the original installation had used the proper cable, A 3 wire cord could be installed on the dryer using the original receptacle.
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:45 AM   #23
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I think this became code in the 1999 NEC .....
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:50 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by analogmusicman View Post
hmm...well,aren't ground and neutral tied together at the panel anyway? seems alot of hassle running a new 10/3.
:
Well yes they are tied together !
But if you use your existing set up (yes it will work)
If a fault developes in the neutral line (common)
then the current now takes the only other path home
thru the earth lines,
so now all exposed earthed appliances become live (nasty).
Thats why they like to keep them seperate !

Do it once !
Do it well !
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:37 AM   #25
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Thats why they like to keep them seperate !
And in fact, "they" are required to keep them seperate. ....but I knew what ya meant.
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Old 05-01-2013, 12:35 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by analogmusicman View Post
you know,99% of the sections of this forum (carpentry,plumbing etc.) have actually provided me with some good info, but this one (electrical) is the "pits"! must be that electricians in general are a pain!
We are not being a pain. There are consequences when the work is not done correctly. Some just take longer to manifest themselves. Some of the bigger ones result in a family with small children killed because someone said "I can make this work. Codes, Smodes."

I hate it when someone feels that following the code is too much hassle and ignore the rules that were put in place to protect someones life.
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Old 05-01-2013, 01:20 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by analogmusicman View Post
I'll bet the plug will have 4 prongs.
The dryers I've bought never come with cords -- had to buy a cord separately every time.

It's legal to put a new dryer on a 3-prong cord and -- if it's wired correctly -- use an old existing 3-prong outlet. However in your case it wasn't wired correctly, so it's a moot point and ya gotta use 10-3 and 4-prong.
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Old 05-01-2013, 01:31 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by secutanudu View Post
Silly question - what's wrong with the original receptacle?
The receptacle shown is wired with NM cable which was not allowed to use the bare as a neutral.
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Old 05-01-2013, 04:30 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Philly Master View Post
I think this became code in the 1999 NEC .....
For new installations, yes. Prior to that you could use a three wires method, but only if all three conductors were insulated or SE type cable was used AND the circuit originated at the main service panel, i.e., not a sub panel.
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:04 PM   #30
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