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Old 04-22-2011, 06:07 PM   #46
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Do I need a sub panel here?


Another issue that has come up can be seen in this picture. Notice to the left of the door there is a small pvc line coming up through the sill plate. That is the service entrance which is encased in the slab footing. When I run my service pvc, it will connect to that. The problem I have is that the framing doesn't work out right there where I have a normal 16" on center opening. I think most flush mount boxes are designed to fit in between that. The biggest opening I will have right above that is about 10" wide. I need basically a main panel that will be used as the sub panel. I looked today but I can't find any narrow panels that might get into that opening. All I could find were the normal width boxes. Not sure what to do about this. Anybody have any ideas?

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Old 04-22-2011, 06:15 PM   #47
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Do I need a sub panel here?


Move the stud to the right of the conduit further to the right(toward the door opening) or surface mount the panel.

BTW, that conduit looks like white PVC plumbing pipe. An inspector might get picky and say that it not code compliant. (A little gray paint might work)
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Old 04-22-2011, 07:15 PM   #48
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Do I need a sub panel here?


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Move the stud to the right of the conduit further to the right(toward the door opening) or surface mount the panel.

BTW, that conduit looks like white PVC plumbing pipe. An inspector might get picky and say that it not code compliant. (A little gray paint might work)
Yes I just realized that. I wonder what the difference between the two is. The building inspector lady asked me what it was when she checked the slab, and I told her it was for electrical when or if I ever got around to it. She didn't say anything but "OK" so maybe they wont reject it.

I figured I might have to move the studs around. I just wanted to be sure nobody made a slim panel before I went through all the trouble.
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Old 04-22-2011, 10:08 PM   #49
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Do I need a sub panel here?


The difference SCH-40 PVC conduit (gray) and SCH-40 PVC pipe (white) is the conduit has a UV protection so it can be used outside and the sun will not make it brittle. And the rating marking on the pipe or conduit.
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Old 04-23-2011, 08:27 AM   #50
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Do I need a sub panel here?


I picked up a panel at home depot lasy night. I want to be sure I have the panel on hand so I can redo the framing correctly. Is there anything in the code that dictates how it should be mounted? Height, where it is at on the wall, how it is mounted to the wall, etc..? I don't want to mount it incorrectly if there is a code for it. I also bought an outdoor panel, even though it will be located inside. Is this okay?
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Old 04-23-2011, 08:43 AM   #51
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Do I need a sub panel here?


Not sure of the particulars, but I am certain there are stipulations as to mounting height and clearances for accessibility. One of the pros can undoubtedly fill us in.
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Old 04-23-2011, 09:15 AM   #52
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Mounted in a readily accessible position with the highest brealer handle not more that 2 meters (6' 7") off floor.

BTW Which panel did you end up buying?
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Old 04-23-2011, 09:51 AM   #53
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Do I need a sub panel here?


I bought a GE panel, one somewhat like the one that is on my house now. I really wish I could have found a smaller one. I can't remember the specifics but I think it has 8 places and 16 circuits. I guess the room is there if further expansion is ever needed that big..

I wonder if there is any difference in whether the panel is mounted inside or outside. I was looking this morning trying to find a house under construction so I could see how they had done it. It is hard to catch a house that is been wired before they both the sheet rock in though. I've found one so far but the panel mounts on the outside.

Another thing I haven't paid much attention to is how to wires enter the box. I would think my actual service would come up through the bottom of the box and the branch circuits will come out of the bottom as well as the top. I can't help but think bare wires running through those circular knockouts should have some sort of grommet on them. I'm curious to know exactly how they will do it.
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Old 04-23-2011, 10:16 AM   #54
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Do I need a sub panel here?


Normally you would use a non-metallic cable connectors like these:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

But since you are installing the load center outside you can not use NM type cable. I would run a short piece of 2.5" PVC conduit out of the top and a LB fitting to get back into the building and run all my individual cables NM thru it. Run another piece of PVC conduit out the bottom to connect to the PVC out of the slab for the feeder.

Going back to an earlier discussion on feeder sizing: since you bought such a small panel (8 space), any size above 60 amps is a waste IMO.
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Old 04-23-2011, 10:30 AM   #55
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Just to clarify, the panel will be mounted on the inside, not the outside.

I finally found a house which had been wired and the panels were inside the garage. I saw that they had used some sort of plastic grommet that grips the NM wire where it entered the box.

Another reason I do not think the fact that I use regular pvc will matter, is that since it does come up through the slab inside the building, none of it is exposed to sunlight. It exits the slab under the footing underground. When the ditch is dug it will connect there underground to the pvc that will be used for the run to the main panel.
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Old 04-23-2011, 10:35 AM   #56
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Do I need a sub panel here?


Why not put the panel inside and make it simpler? Use the connectors rj linked to. The feeder needs to be in conduit all the way to the panel.

(Oops! Sorry, a little tardy on this post.)
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Old 04-23-2011, 10:54 AM   #57
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Do I need a sub panel here?


Just to clarify, the panel will be mounted on the inside, not the outside.

Sorry, but I thought you said in recent post you were mounting it outside
.

I finally found a house which had been wired and the panels were inside the garage. I saw that they had used some sort of plastic grommet that grips the NM wire where it entered the box.

Yes those plastic grommets are an alternative to the connectors I showed (guess I am a little old school).

Another reason I do not think the fact that I use regular pvc will matter, is that since it does come up through the slab inside the building, none of it is exposed to sunlight. It exits the slab under the footing underground. When the ditch is dug it will connect there underground to the pvc that will be used for the run to the main panel.

My concern is the type of elbow they used under the slab to bring it out under the footing. Conduit elbows are long sweep to allow the heavy cable to be pulled. Plumbing elbows are much more right turn and could make your pull very difficult.
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Old 04-23-2011, 11:01 AM   #58
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Do I need a sub panel here?


Outboor panels do not have knockouts in the top of the panel.
I would return this panel and get an indoor panel.
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Old 04-23-2011, 11:25 AM   #59
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Outboor panels do not have knockouts in the top of the panel.
I would return this panel and get an indoor panel.
Additionally outdoor load centers are more expensive that what you need for indoor use,

Since you wanted a small panel, here is a 12 space GE for $19. You will have to use 2 spaces for the disconnect (breaker) to back feed the feeders and that will leave you 10 spaces for circuits

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053
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Old 04-23-2011, 01:15 PM   #60
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Additionally outdoor load centers are more expensive that what you need for indoor use,

Since you wanted a small panel, here is a 12 space GE for $19. You will have to use 2 spaces for the disconnect (breaker) to back feed the feeders and that will leave you 10 spaces for circuits

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053
I saw this one, but I wasn't sure how it worked because I am used to seeing the panels which have one space for the main breaker and other spaces for the circuits are seperate. I wanted to remove the cover to look at the inside, but since it was screwed on I could not remove it and I could not tell what was going on underneath. If this panel will work, I 'll go exchange it.

The Panel I bought is model number TLM812RCU2P. Now that I look, you guys are right - it does not have any top knockouts. I guess I'll be heading back to home depot later.

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