DIY interlock for generator

puttster

Model number W4040L. Hey, and while I was looking at the cover sticker I found the interlocks it accepts! ECSBPK01,02,03,05,06 or 07. Prices range from $20 to $60. I guess I'll go for the cheapest one, why not?

Thanks for all the help - those of you who did!

puttster

Speedy Petey

That is exactly what I was talking about, the part number of the interlock. Most companies do make factory interlock kits for a fraction of the cost of aftermarket.

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Arnold Ziffel

The kits made by interlockkit aren't UL listed, and that may be what they're discussing at Electrican Talk.

Here's what their site says:

Tested for use with UL 67 Listed Panelboards
Ref. Wyle Laboratories Test Report T52431-01
Wyle is a Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory authorized by OSHA for UL standard 67 and recognized by all 50 US States.
http://www.interlockkit.com/warranty01.htm

Wyle is no longer a Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory. I believe it was when they did the testing on interlockkit's products.

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That has nothing to do with interlock kits made by other companies.

This also doesn't necessarily mean that the interlocks made by Interlock Kit don't work. I have read somewhere that some inspectors won't pass them because they are not UL listed, however, and that they have had trouble getting them permitted for jobs in one state (I believe it is Washington). If someone with real experience can shed light one this, that might help some other readers.

COLDIRON

"Everyone who replied helped whether you think so or not" Be thankful that people care MR. Sarcastic"

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dougp23

What COLDIRON said in his first post: don't get too confident when you're messing around with your main entrance. Lot of amps in there will mess you up real bad - real fast. Be careful! Paying an electrician $100 to install this is so much cheaper than getting injured. Had a friend wiring in a new circuit to his main panel, touched a conductor in the box accidentally, it shocked him and sparked a little. He reacted instinctively by pulling back very quickly and when he did, knocked his head on the nearby stair riser so hard he fell over almost knocking himself out and breaking his finger when he fell! Again, just be careful. That DIY interlock thing on youtube looks like a complete hazard.

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rrolleston

If I was doing the install I would use something like this.

http://www.amazon.com/Siemens-ECSBPK...=I2P2CXY3I1YZO

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rrolleston

It's the same panel as mine just with a 150 amp breaker and not a 200 I am going to be installing the interlock kit on mine this spring. I refuse to tie my generator into my main panel without all listed devices being installed and installed properly. For now I just use an extension cord for the fridge and some other small stuff and in the winter some small heaters.

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puttster

Yeah, that 03 looks like the one. My panel box has an open knockout on the bottom, I was thinking of using something like this, screw it in to the entrance there, kill 2 birds with one stone.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-me...e=UTF8&index=0

Looks kind of dangerous but with a UP approved interlock, what to worry?

puttster

tylernt

An inlet is only dangerous without an interlock or transfer switch. The interlock/t-switch ensures that utility power will never energize the male prongs.

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LVDIY

How can you afford a generator if you are too poor to buy an interlock kit?

I wouldn't even consider an interlock kit. Either run extension cords directly from your generator to the appliances you need to power, or install a proper transfer switch.

I'm cheap, and I just went through this myself, trying to decide on how to hook up my generator, and after doing the research, I concluded that a transfer switch is the best and most economical way to go. Now I'm just trying to figure out exactly what kit to order, but the whole thing will probably set me back about $300.

A basic transfer switch isn't that much more expensive than an interlock kit. Your still gonna have to spend money on wiring and inlets and whatnot, so I would do it properly while you're at it.

You might be able to fabricate your own interlock, but how are you planning on getting that through inspection? Having the inspector come back twice is probably gonna set you back more than the $100 - $200 you saved on not just getting a transfer switch from the get go.

AandPDan

An OEM interlock, from the panel manufacturer can be substantially cheaper than a transfer switch and is much easier to install - and UL Listed and approved.

In addition, under generator power your transfer switch bypasses AFCI and GFCI breakers - a possible issue with your inspector and it also limits the number of circuits you can run. My Murray interlock affords AFCI protection and allows me to choose any circuit to be powered.

k_buz

HUH?

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LVDIY

I do realize both interlocks and transfer switches have their own advantages and disadvantages, it just seemed to me the pre wired transfer kits would be easier to install for a DIY'er. The flexibility of activating whatever breaker you want in your panel is nice, but then I've had a lot of people tell me that transfer switches are the way to go since you can better balance the load on the circuits you pick.

I didn't mean that an interlock kit is not a proper way of doing it, I see how my post can be read like that.

I'm curious about the GFCI thing though, but maybe that's another thread

I do still question OP's idea of manufacturing his own interlock in order to save $50...

AandPDan

When I made the post I was thinking he means the typical 6 or 10 circuit type transfer switch panel. The last post confirms it.

When on generator mode, you bypass any AFCI or GFCI breaker protection. Power is being fed from the generator, through the transfer switch circuit breaker, and then into the switched circuit. There is only one neutral from the transfer switch, not one for each circuit.

k_buz

If you are talking about those Reliance transfer panels, I have never wired one, but I would assume that if you move a circuit to that panel, that would be the OCP in normal and generator load. So, by moving the AFCI/GFCI protected circuit to that panel, you would be violating code.

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