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Old 04-10-2008, 09:33 PM   #16
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dishwasher electrical wire


You can always do a continuity test to find which prong goes to what wire.

However, I'm with Mike.

The old dishwasher was a plug in model( unless it was modified too). This model is designed to be hard wired in, as most are. It should be on its own 15Amp circuit minimum, with nothing else on the circuit.
The dishwasher is a permanently installed appliance and should be permanently connected.

If you insist on using a plug, the outlet must be accessable and cannot be in a cabinet. Most jurisdictions only allow an outlet in a cabinet if its a dedicated circuit for a microwave oven.

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Old 04-10-2008, 09:39 PM   #17
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By moving it over 2 feet, is there a cabinet between the dishwasher and receptacle?
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Old 04-10-2008, 09:48 PM   #18
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The old dishwasher was a plug in model( unless it was modified too). This model is designed to be hard wired in, as most are. It should be on its own 15Amp circuit minimum, with nothing else on the circuit.
The dishwasher is a permanently installed appliance and should be permanently connected.

If you insist on using a plug, the outlet must be accessable and cannot be in a cabinet. Most jurisdictions only allow an outlet in a cabinet if its a dedicated circuit for a microwave oven.[/quote]


Appliances need disconnecting means, which is why you would install a receptacle under the sink with 2 15amp circuits and a 2-pole breaker. The receptacle is allowed to be in the cabinet next to the dishwasher.

The cord and plug represents a disconnecting means.

If you hard wire the dishwasher you must install a breaker lock.
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Old 04-11-2008, 06:56 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Swearingen View Post
A dishwasher requires a dedicated circuit.
Mike


No it doesn't, you will not find that requirement anywhere in the NEC. Maybe you have local codes that require it.
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Old 04-11-2008, 09:36 AM   #20
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It looks like the receptacle should be moved to be behind or next to the dishwasher, code restricts the length of the coard to a max of 4 ft (from the face of the plug to the edge of the dishwasher).
Or hardwire it.

Last edited by hpp58; 04-11-2008 at 09:44 AM.
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Old 04-11-2008, 11:23 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NAIL View Post
The old dishwasher was a plug in model( unless it was modified too). This model is designed to be hard wired in, as most are. It should be on its own 15Amp circuit minimum, with nothing else on the circuit.
The dishwasher is a permanently installed appliance and should be permanently connected.

If you insist on using a plug, the outlet must be accessable and cannot be in a cabinet. Most jurisdictions only allow an outlet in a cabinet if its a dedicated circuit for a microwave oven.

Appliances need disconnecting means, which is why you would install a receptacle under the sink with 2 15amp circuits and a 2-pole breaker. The receptacle is allowed to be in the cabinet next to the dishwasher.

The cord and plug represents a disconnecting means.

If you hard wire the dishwasher you must install a breaker lock.[/quote]


I disagree with the breaker lock, and the means of diconnect. As long as there is a breaker, it can be disconnected. The only other thing I can think of right now are electric water heaters. Mine has no other disconnect other than the breaker. I have never seen a disconnect for a dishwasher.

Electric hand dryers,and baseboard heaters have no secondary disconnect either.

Maybe this is another regional thing.
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Old 04-11-2008, 02:21 PM   #22
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dishwasher electrical wire


Wow guys, the OP must be ready to give up here. There is a lot of wrong info in this thread. Maybe some are local codes, but some is just pretty far out.

422.16 b 2 is a pretty good place to start. I suggest keeping local and state codes out of it unless we know where the OP is and are familiar with HIS local requirements. JMHO.
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Old 04-11-2008, 05:09 PM   #23
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Thats what I looked at.
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Old 04-11-2008, 05:58 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrclen View Post
Wow guys, the OP must be ready to give up here. There is a lot of wrong info in this thread. Maybe some are local codes, but some is just pretty far out.

422.16 b 2 is a pretty good place to start. I suggest keeping local and state codes out of it unless we know where the OP is and are familiar with HIS local requirements. JMHO.

The info being givin out is pretty bad... I dont even want to comment. I would just scratch this thread and start over....
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Old 04-11-2008, 07:35 PM   #25
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Quote:
can someone confirm the ribbed side of the appliance cord goes to the white wire
The "identified conductor" is the neutral (white).

Get yourself a 6' cord. They make them and I'm certain they stock them.


In AZ we run a 20 amp circuit for the DW/Disp. 1/2 switched outlet under the sink, 3' pigtail on disposal, 6' pigtail on DW. Always have, probably always will.

Last edited by 220/221; 04-11-2008 at 07:38 PM.
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Old 04-11-2008, 08:44 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gencon View Post
Appliances need disconnecting means, which is why you would install a receptacle under the sink with 2 15amp circuits and a 2-pole breaker. The receptacle is allowed to be in the cabinet next to the dishwasher.

The cord and plug represents a disconnecting means.

If you hard wire the dishwasher you must install a breaker lock.

I disagree with the breaker lock, and the means of diconnect. As long as there is a breaker, it can be disconnected. The only other thing I can think of right now are electric water heaters. Mine has no other disconnect other than the breaker. I have never seen a disconnect for a dishwasher.

Electric hand dryers,and baseboard heaters have no secondary disconnect either.

Maybe this is another regional thing.[/quote]


I was referring to any region using the NEC


422.16(B)(1)
422.31
422.33

If I forgot other references I sure it's in the area.
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Old 04-11-2008, 09:06 PM   #27
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[quote=NAIL;115704]I disagree with the breaker lock, and the means of diconnect. As long as there is a breaker, it can be disconnected.


You need to read 422.32,

If you use a switch or circuit breaker as the disconnecting means it shall be located within sight of the motor controller. You cant even use a breaker lock, if the breaker or switch is not within sight.
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Old 04-11-2008, 09:57 PM   #28
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[quote=chris75;115709]
Quote:
Originally Posted by NAIL View Post
I disagree with the breaker lock, and the means of diconnect. As long as there is a breaker, it can be disconnected.


You need to read 422.32,

If you use a switch or circuit breaker as the disconnecting means it shall be located within sight of the motor controller. You cant even use a breaker lock, if the breaker or switch is not within sight.

I guess the code is national the interpretation is regional. In Minnesota the residential dishwashers are primarily cord and plug. And when they are not, breaker locks are installed.
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Old 04-11-2008, 10:51 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrclen View Post
Wow guys, the OP must be ready to give up here. There is a lot of wrong info in this thread. Maybe some are local codes, but some is just pretty far out.
The OP is long gone. This thread started in Nov of 05!
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Old 04-11-2008, 11:00 PM   #30
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[quote=NAIL;115716]
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris75 View Post


I guess the code is national the interpretation is regional. In Minnesota the residential dishwashers are primarily cord and plug. And when they are not, breaker locks are installed.

And its a code violation if the dishwasher is over 1/8th horse power, unless of course you have some kind of state amendment.

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