direct wire a range

j1mw3b

Got a new Kitchenaid range. The wall outlet is about 7 1/2 inches high. The range has a cross-bar in the back that appears to limit the height of the wall outlet to about 6 inches max.

I thought I'd just be able to plug it in, but now it looks like I will have to either move the outlet box by turning the current box into a junction box and running wires to a new box lower.
Big pain!
Can I actually wire-nut those big #8 (or #6) wires??

Other thought is to maybe just direct-wire the range to the outlet box.
Is that OK?
Would still have to wire-nut those big wires I guess.

Any suggestions?

This is part of a kitchen remodel. Never again - this will be 3rd box I have had to move.

The bad part is this is all conduit, so not fun at all.

Thanx,

Jim

Jim Port

Did you look to see which direction the wire came from?

You may be able to just move the receptacle down just by cutting some drywall.

j1mw3b

Nope. The conduit is coming from above. Wires too short.
If I'd known about this, woulda added the requirement to accept a 8" high receptacle to my range feature list.

I'm not too keen on pulling new wires either. Not sure that's within my skill list.

j1mw3b

OK. Forget this one. Gonna pull new wires. Took the outlet apart and discovered aluminum wires. An old house ('73) - the big wires are aluminum. I replaced the AC wires a few years ago.

InPhase277

Large aluminum wires are ok, as long as the terminals are rated for it, and you put an antioxidant on the wires. But no, you cannot direct wire the range. But since you are pulling new wires, take the box loose and put an extension on the conduit to move it down.

InPhase277

Stubbie

I think it is great that you are going to pull new copper wires. I would pull a #10 ground and #8 thhn copper conductors (H-H-N) with the conductors so you will have a 4 wire feed. This way conduit size won't be a problem and you will have smaller wire and 50 amp capability. I'm assuming here that you live in an area where metal conduit is required.

What size breaker do you have in your panel for this circuit? I couldn't find any kitchen aid free standing ranges that required more than a 40 amp branch circuit. Need your model# to be sure.

For your information here is the link to new model Kitchen aid range installation instructions. I'm not sure what model you have or if it is new or not. Make sure the bonding jumper is removed from the neutral terminal of the new range. Kitchen aid calls it the ground link.

http://www.kitchenaid.com/assets/pdf...LL/9758377.pdf

j1mw3b

It's new, part of a kitchen remodel - 30 years with the old kitchen; time to make my wife happy - a KESK901S. Looks to me like it takes either a 40 or 50 amp breaker and I have a 40 so should be OK.

Good thing, 'cause it's a FPE and hate to invest any money in that loser.
But that's another story - I want to replace it with a Siemens, but it's all conduit and a LOT of work (translates to lots of $$$$).

Fella in back of me is a Master Electrician and I talked to him about it and when I said the current wires are silver in color (aluminum), he said "pull new wires!". So I ummmed and awwed and finally asked him to help and we will do it Tues. Don't trust myself to do it even though I have pulled smaller wires.

BTW, I know the FPE 40amp range breaker works 'cuz I STUPIDLY plugged in the cord with dangling wires. Lots of noise and lightning. Thank God I wasn't holding the bare wire.
Another reason my wife won't let me pull the new wires.
I've done quite a bit of wiring of 120 circuits, and touched live wires a few times, but this incident one scared the living daylights and s... out of me.

Anyway, thanks all!

Stubbie

Yeah that will make you check your shorts.

As for the FPE breaker it isn't that they don't work as much as they won't trip out when they experience a fault.

That model will be fine on a 40 amp breaker.