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sloopy2 01-18-2009 01:22 AM

dimmer switch twilight zone
I have a round knob dimmer operating my kitchen recess lights. Push it in to turn on/off, and it rotates to brighten or dim lights. I pushed in, turned the lights off...then a few seconds later, the lights came on by themselves...then there was a buzzing sound coming from the dimmer and then the lights all went off and I can't get it to work at all. Is this a dimmer issue or is there a wiring issue elsewhere? Can I just replace the dimmer and feel safe or is my house going to burn down? Do I have a gremlin?

PaliBob 01-18-2009 02:00 AM

The Dimmer just committed Hari Kira. If it has worked OK for months then there is most likely no problem with your wiring. Go ahead and replace the Dimmer.

sloopy2 01-18-2009 03:42 AM

lights don't work, the illuminator is working on the dimmer though, and there is periodic popping and crackling. I suppose it is the dimmer and not one of the light sockets. I hope.

I totally understand why people rent. There's too much s**t going wrong with this d**n house every f*****g day and I can't keep up with it.

wirenut1110 01-18-2009 06:22 AM

How many and what size bulbs do you have in your fixtures? You may need to upgrade to a higher wattage dimmer if this one is close to or exceeding it's rated wattage.

Ultrarunner2017 01-18-2009 12:10 PM

Replacing a dimmer is not a big deal. Just remember to shut off power at the breaker first!

rgsgww 01-18-2009 12:53 PM

If the wiring was would have smelled it and seen it sooner.

Replace the dimmer. Lutron dimmers are long lasting.

PaliBob 01-18-2009 01:17 PM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by KE2KB (Post 214937)
......Just remember to shut off power at the breaker first!

The fastest way to tell whether or not you have the right breaker turned OFF is with a Sniffer.
HF Non-Contact Voltage Tester


Yoyizit 01-18-2009 05:22 PM

I'd test the dimmer once it's removed. Put it in series with 120v and any incandescent lamp (but it does sound like it's toast).

Before you risk a new dimmer, check that an ordinary switch can make the lights work.

Better yet, substitute a 100w lamp for the switch; you should see some light, either with the substitute lamp or the controlled lamps, but not full brightness with the substitute lamp. If in doubt, check the voltage across the substitute.
With the lamp, you're checking the downstream circuitry without the drama of possibly putting a non-current-limited 120v into a dead short.

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