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Old 11-22-2012, 11:15 AM   #16
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Did I re-wire my Main Panel correctly ?!


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Originally Posted by Techy View Post
Mobile home, indoor panel shouldve been a sub the entire time.


The correct way to do this is buy a UL listed Main Breaker Meter Combo panel

At first read, I thought the service went to the meter then directly to the dwelling. Thus the panel inside the home was a main panel. After rereading the OP, I more inclined to agree with you. There was a panel with breakers, just not a "main breaker".

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Old 11-22-2012, 11:17 AM   #17
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Did I re-wire my Main Panel correctly ?!


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The indoor panel WAS always a Sub to the Pole Panel , right ?
For safety sake, i wanted a Main shut off at the Pole in case a Hurricane comes in and destroys part of the dwelling including the electrical therein. Im ticked that it wasnt done this way from the start.
I don't understand why you think improperly modifying electrical equipment is a better solution than just turning off the breakers in the panel?
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:21 AM   #18
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Did I re-wire my Main Panel correctly ?!


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Originally Posted by k_buz View Post
1) I have no way of knowing. It may be that there are less than 6 breakers in the panel and no main is needed.

2) After rereading your OP, if all the branch circuits for the dwelling originate from the panel you installed that main in, you would not need to separate them.
1. In the Pole Panel , there were 5 breakers in it (6 now with my added Main Breaker) . Before, there was a double breaker for the Electric Furnace, the A/C unit , the Well Pump , and for the Dwelling ...and a single one for 115 v. power at a weatherproof outlet right at the Pole . The dwelling Main Panel, has a 100 amp Main Breaker with about 12 circuits i think ... mostly single breakers... and double breakers for the Water Heater and Range.

Again, i wanted a Main shutoff at the Pole .

2. Ok. Thanks.
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:25 AM   #19
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Did I re-wire my Main Panel correctly ?!


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Originally Posted by k_buz View Post
I don't understand why you think improperly modifying electrical equipment is a better solution than just turning off the breakers in the panel?
I could very easily convert it back to how it was, if there were definitive safety issues with what i did .
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:26 AM   #20
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Did I re-wire my Main Panel correctly ?!


No main was needed if there were only 5 breakers in the panel at the pole. All you have to do is to turn off those 5 breakers to cut off all power.
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:28 AM   #21
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Did I re-wire my Main Panel correctly ?!


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Originally Posted by TheyCallMeDave View Post
I could very easily convert it back to how it was, if there were definitive safety issues with what i did .
The damage is already done. There are holes not intended to be there. Drilling the buss bars is the problem and there is no way to fix that. Will anything happen? Couldn't tell you.
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Old 11-22-2012, 12:53 PM   #22
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Did I re-wire my Main Panel correctly ?!


Quote:
Originally Posted by TheyCallMeDave View Post
1. In the Pole Panel , there were 5 breakers in it (6 now with my added Main Breaker) . Before, there was a double breaker for the Electric Furnace, the A/C unit , the Well Pump , and for the Dwelling ...and a single one for 115 v. power at a weatherproof outlet right at the Pole . The dwelling Main Panel, has a 100 amp Main Breaker with about 12 circuits i think ... mostly single breakers... and double breakers for the Water Heater and Range.

Again, i wanted a Main shutoff at the Pole .

2. Ok. Thanks.
What you did is a major code violation which will have repercussions insurance wise if you have an electrcal fire for any reason. You seem ok with that so I'll move on.

How did you determine the 125 amp main breaker size for your modification? Is that within the rating of your modified service panel? Conductors ?

Your existing combination service panel was code compliant as a power panel with the 5 double pole breakers. I think if you look the panel will only accept 6 double pole breakers before all the spaces are used up. Essentially it fell under the rule referred to by many as the 6 handle rule. Which simply means that it must take 6 movements of the hand or less to shut off all power to your mobile home. The breakers as a combination serve as the disconnect. There was no reason to change that ... all a "main" does is shorten that to one switch so to speak. The result is the same.

Your #3 awg is too small for 125 amp main breaker either as a main power feeder or service conductor or for use at 125 amps via table 310.16 of the NEC.

It appears that the original installation allowed fo branch circuits to several appliances and a feeder (must be 4 wire) to the mobile homes 100 amp main breaker panel.

What is your service size ? I would expect 150 or 200 amps.

Anyway just looking at what was there originally per your description you had code compliancy. You do not have that now.

You asked about drilling the busses to add lugs to them so you could back feed the "main breaker" you installed. By backfeeding a main you now have yourself required to use a lockdown device for that main breaker. Your panel does not provide for that provision and is not listed for it. You now have multiple code violations. Illegal modification for service equipment, wrong size conductors, and no hold down device for the backfed main breaker. You may also have exceeded the bus stab rating for your service panel by installing a 125 amp breaker adjacent to another high amperage breaker like the electric furnace breaker.

You really need to realize what you did was neither code compliant or necessary nor safe with many oversights on your part. However I do give you credit for having come here to ask if what you did was safe.

There really is only one thing you should do at this point and that has already been suggested by Techy and K Buz. Just chalk it up to a lesson learned. I would also suggest that you solicit the help of an electrician to correct your poor judgement.
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:07 PM   #23
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Did I re-wire my Main Panel correctly ?!


I agree with K_Bus: you wasn't suppose to tamper with the panel..especially in the manner you did. Sometime trying to save alil buck's becomes more costly then not. Here in SC you can be fined $5K.. then imprisoned for a year. 2nd: you would have been better off just buying a 200 amp meter combo panel with 8 circuits at least to accommodate the designated circuits for any 220's needed. 3rd: i comprehend you saw the risk before initiating the actions.. still common sense still is a factor. If your not 85% sure don't bother with it! 4th: at the end of the day, your still back to square one...just alil deeper from where you originally started!
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:17 PM   #24
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Did I re-wire my Main Panel correctly ?!


Stubie: also great perception there. People must learn its better to consult a licensed electrician..or electrician who has the knowledge/insight to what is already in good standard, or to what's needed to improve the current situation if required as modification is needed.
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Old 11-22-2012, 07:49 PM   #25
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Did I re-wire my Main Panel correctly ?!


Quote:
Originally Posted by TheyCallMeDave View Post
1. In the Pole Panel , there were 5 breakers in it (6 now with my added Main Breaker) . Before, there was a double breaker for the Electric Furnace, the A/C unit , the Well Pump , and for the Dwelling ...and a single one for 115 v. power at a weatherproof outlet right at the Pole . The dwelling Main Panel, has a 100 amp Main Breaker with about 12 circuits i think ... mostly single breakers... and double breakers for the Water Heater and Range.

Again, i wanted a Main shutoff at the Pole .

2. Ok. Thanks.
You could left it alone due we have 6 throw rules and you were UNDER 6 throws that is very common and it still legit in few places..

If you really want main breaker to shut down the whole place the only way you can do this is get combo meter - main box but this type we call them mobile home meter all-in-one or mobile home panel with takeoff lugs.

The size you will need is denfity 150 amp minuim size due you mention electrique heating in there but 200 amp is more common size and cheaper to find it.

However Which part of Floride you are in ? I may know couple POCO down there ( one of my family member work on one of them ) and the other thing most POCO will useally required a electrician to come out and install the new meter combo but Homeowner can do it only I say only if your county office ( Inspectors / permits ) do allow it otherwise Electrician is the only choice.

For the inside Mobile Home panels it never used as Main panel it always set up as subpanel it is well written in the NEC code for many years.

I think really I suggest that you should have electrician come out and do this right I know you may not like to hear this but we done this for long time and we know excatally what to do and done right it will be much safer.

The other reason why it kinda bother me is electrique heating system I do not know what size breaker/ conductor size in there now and 63 amps is pretty good load on the system and with exsting 125 amp service which you have there now that pretty much right on limit espcally if you have water heater going and stove on half way when you do good cooking that can overload the system without not knowing it.



Merci,
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Old 11-22-2012, 09:20 PM   #26
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Did I re-wire my Main Panel correctly ?!


You need to purchase and install one of these:



Depending on what you have now, you just might get lucky and be able to buy the same brand and reuse your existing breakers, unlikely, but possible.

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Old 11-22-2012, 10:16 PM   #27
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Did I re-wire my Main Panel correctly ?!


TTW: thats the 200 amp i was opposing to the poster. Great example where he can physically see. Yes.. still its better for him to consult with a actual electrician where he can get to the place he need to be at. Obtaining a permit would be highly recommended especially this time.. since his starting didnt pane out correctly. NOW:::: to David, if it is your property which i believe you previously stated it was. You can save yourself by acting as your own contractor to pulling your own permit...ifff thats allowed in your state. THEN.. hire a electrician to install that proper meter base as TTW provided in the pic.

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Old 11-22-2012, 10:29 PM   #28
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Did I re-wire my Main Panel correctly ?!


Dave: in your earlier post.. did you mentioned if the subpanel in the house had a main shut off switch or not? If not.. then you will definite need to install a 100 amp main breaker in the outside combo to control the circuit inside if its a 100 amp, which i believe it is. For the only service equipment I know sometime excludes the main breaker is on the 100 amps or below service equipment. You will also need to install 2, 8'ft ground rods using #4 copper wire- 2, ground clamps per rod. setting the 2 rods 6'ft apart from each other. AS said, if you hire a electrician/or get the assistance of a electrician the project will go right! AND you possibly will reserve the existing breakers for the new combo panel.. if you purchase the combo compatible with the current breakers you have.

TIP: I would highly recommend you upgrade the inside service to a main shut off. In SC i know where I'm at it is mandatory that you have a shut off inside. And its NEC compliance.

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Old 11-22-2012, 10:41 PM   #29
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Did I re-wire my Main Panel correctly ?!


125 amps using THHN needs to be at least 1/0 size, 3 is way too small according to table 310.16 of the NEC. This assumes proper lugs, which you do not have.

If you load that mess up the way it is now, you WILL have serious problems.

There is a good reason that it takes someone at least 8000 hours of apprenticeship, plus training, testing, and licensing to become an electrician.

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Old 11-23-2012, 12:16 AM   #30
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Did I re-wire my Main Panel correctly ?!


Confirm your is doing this on the load side of the meter? It almost sounds like you did it on the line side....circumventing the meter.....(free power).

Anyway....what you did is what I call a buss tap......a big no no....I learned this the hard way on a 3500A MCC

For it to be 'legal', you have to be able to prove that your wiring has the proper buss bracing...i.e., can it tollerate dead short before the installed safeties kick in?

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