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Old 12-24-2012, 02:19 PM   #1
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Destroy my sheetrock per code?


Okay, this is probably easily answered but since I haven`t bought NEC2011 yet, I wondered if someone might help with these two questions...

1. My understanding is that all wiring must be fastened to let`s say a stud or other rigid part of the structure in dwellings. (I hope I said this right.) Anyway, I will rewire my home in the next year or so and was wondering if I run new wire if I will have to tear out my sheetrock so that I can fasten this wire to the studs?

2. I would like some opinions about whether you pros see the NEC changing a lot between 2011 and 2014. I was going to start accumulating material so I wouldn`t have to take a big hit when I buy my supplies just before doing this rewire but it appears that the code changes so radically from one edition to the next that what I buy this year may not be acceptable in say 2014 if my state adopts the code.



I really want to do this right and I am going to do this myself so any thoughts would be appreciated.

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Old 12-24-2012, 02:23 PM   #2
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Destroy my sheetrock per code?


Wire that is fished into place does not need to be stapled.

About the only thing that would change between now and 2014 would be more arc fault breakers needed.

The code dosen't change that much so as to cost you more money with the exception of arc fault breakers.

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Old 12-24-2012, 02:26 PM   #3
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Destroy my sheetrock per code?


Wiring fished into an enclosed wall does not have to be secured.

NEC2014 will not be enforced before 2015 in any jurisdiction, can't you get it done before that?
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Old 12-24-2012, 02:52 PM   #4
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Destroy my sheetrock per code?


In most jurisdictions, the code that is in effect when the permits are issued is the code of record.
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Old 12-24-2012, 03:40 PM   #5
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Destroy my sheetrock per code?


Thanks Guys for your replies. This helps a lot. As a boiler and pressure vessel inspector I know how tangled these codes can become and I wanted to see if in your opinions there could be any reasonable possibilities concerning just such as the arc-fault protection that could come up and bite me. It appears so long as there are no major wiring requirement changes I will be okay.

As far as busting out the sheetrock again a big Thanks for the help. I plan on buying a code book that will be pertinent to my state`s rules when I get past the planning stage here but this will probably be 2014.

Have a Merry Christmas all and Thanks Again!

plain
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Old 12-24-2012, 06:16 PM   #6
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Destroy my sheetrock per code?


Even if you hav3 to make a hole in the sheetrock to help fish the cables, you do not have to make the hole big enough to wield a staple gun or hammer inside.
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Old 12-24-2012, 06:37 PM   #7
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Destroy my sheetrock per code?


If you have a attic space, you pull the wire down from there. If you have a crawl space or basement, you pull up from there. You use the holes that you made for the old work boxes, for the pull points. If using nailed in place boxes, remove the base molding and make a hole down there to allow you to pull the wire up, or just below the nailed in place box, so that you can grab the wire to push into the box.

There are more than one way to skin a cat. Easier to patch a small hole around a box, than make a panel cut, that will not blend into the rest of the wall. Especially if your place is like mine, and they used Sand paint on the walls.
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Old 01-12-2013, 07:12 PM   #8
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Destroy my sheetrock per code?


I`ve been working guys, I appreciate all you guys input. Hopefully everything will go smoothly especially now that I know I don`t have to destroy the inside of my home.

Thanks, MorknMindy
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Old 01-15-2013, 06:28 AM   #9
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Destroy my sheetrock per code?


Also know there are long flexible auger bits designed to help drill a hole up/down through just an outlet or switchbox opening. As in, you put in a hole for a wall outlet box, then use the flexible bit to drill down through the bottom (or top) to a more accessible place to fish the wire. The bit requires using an L-shaped tool to bend it. The trick is making sure you get the bit centered on the spot you want to drill, but this isn't hard once you get the hang of it. And for trickier situations sometimes it's just easier to remove a stretch of baseboard at the bottom and use a right angle drill with a very short paddle bit. This way your patch for the drywall gets hidden when you put the baseboard back over it.

Any time you entertain the idea of doing a lot of rewiring it's a good idea to be prepared to repaint. This way you won't get hung up on trying to do the job without disturbing the walls. Sometimes it's much easier and faster to run wires if you just cut a hole in the drywall, patch it and repaint than it is to fight trying to run the wires without the holes.

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