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Old 10-01-2010, 11:33 AM   #16
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Dedicated circuits in the home?


You just don't get it do you? I does not matter what the true current is on ANY appliance. It is whats written on the NAMEPLATE that counts. I had a feeling you had a clamp meter with these currents you mention. This is not how it's done. The wire size and the current requirements all come from the appliance NAMEPLATE. Using your clamp meter is not how you are supposed to do it. The clamp meter is for troubleshooting and testing, not for installing electrical circuits. Put it away and listen to the advice of the three professionals on this subject.

If you had listened to start with you would be done already.

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Old 10-01-2010, 01:16 PM   #17
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Dedicated circuits in the home?


I do refer to nameplates, all the time. I simply like to compare to real measurements as well for my own stuff. I mostly have installed on industrial equipment. if the equipment is not protected with fusing, a very close breaker match is the only way to really protect a motor since a 20A breaker can easily pull 50-60A for a short time.

I am not trying to rewrite the codes or something. As I said, my testing proved dead on for the range and oven because they are resistive loads. Many household stuff has overloads or internal fusing. I just like to see an immediate trip when something goes bad.

Again, I still consider name plates and I realize that the actual service is dictated by them.

Thanks for all the helps guys. I have already corrected some of this and will do the rest later today.
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Old 10-01-2010, 03:06 PM   #18
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Dedicated circuits in the home?


Quote:
viper;509866]I do refer to nameplates, all the time. I simply like to compare to real measurements as well for my own stuff. I mostly have installed on industrial equipment. if the equipment is not protected with fusing, a very close breaker match is the only way to really protect a motor since a 20A breaker can easily pull 50-60A for a short time.
a very close breaker match? to what?

.

the breaker is not intended to provide motor protection in the manner you appear to be using them.

Motor overloads, son. Learn about them. The breaker is to protect the circuit conductors. The overload protects the motor.

Quote:
I am not trying to rewrite the codes or something. As I said, my testing proved dead on for the range and oven because they are resistive loads. Many household stuff has overloads or internal fusing. I just like to see an immediate trip when something goes bad.
do you have any understanding about a thermal/magnetic trip breaker?

If by something bad, you mean a bolt fault current, the difference between a 10 amp and 40 amp breaker is nil. Only on the thermal will you see much difference.
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Old 10-01-2010, 04:20 PM   #19
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Dedicated circuits in the home?


OK. got it

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