I am having a natural gas line installed to the stove. The plumber told me (I believe he said by code) that the 220v line for the old electric stove needs to be de-activated, and a 110v line needs to be added.
My question is, can the 220v line be changed to a 110v and the breaker at the box changed to a 15 or 20 amp instead? Or do I need the 220v line pulled out from the box and taken out, and then fish a new 110v line to the location?
If you run a new circuit why don't you leave the stove plug where it is and do nothing with it, turn the breaker off if you want. Never know in the future you may want to go back to electric, or a future owner may want electric.
is your 240 plug a 4 prong or a 3 prong?
If a 4 prong, you already have 120v power going there. I'd just make up an adapter.
If it is a 3 prong (and 3 wires), you can re-use some of the wiring, but I'd keep it intact. Just flip that breaker to the off position and run a separate 120v outlet. There is no need for a dedicated line just to run the stove clock and spark the igniter.
forresth, just to be sure I am understanding you correctly, I can just add a 120v circuit with separate receptacle onto the 240v line that's already there? How about the breaker? Should I change it to a 15amp?
The plumber is running a flex natural gas pipe to the stove location from the basement this wednessday. Should I just run a 14-3 line alongside the flex pipe? Or is this against code to run electrical lines alongside a gas line?
If I run a new line, to deactivate the 240v, is it ok to just turn off the breaker and cut the wires at the receptacle, wire nut the ends and just stuff it between the wall? Or maybe remove the breakers altogether.
If so, it is both a 240v and 120v receptacle. I don't know if it is code (probably not), but I'd wire a standard 120v receptacle piggy backed onto it; maybe swap your breaker to to something smaller for safety, but it would be hard to wire in a 6awg wire into a 20 amp breaker. Its just too thick of a wire.
You must have another outlet circuit you can add another box to somewhere nearby. That is what I'd tie into. Like I said, no need to run a whole new circuit just for a gas stove.
Whatever you do, don't ruin your existing circuit. I don't see what you'd get for your troubles and you may want an electric stove down the line, or maybe the next owner of your home will. Just trip the breaker and slap some duct tape over the receptacle and to hold the circuit open in the breaker if you are paranoid.
Sounds like you should be calling in an electrician because you don't really know what is involved. assuming that is the case, I can't imagine taking shortcuts with your existing wires would really save you all that much money, and I'd hope a decent electrician would have more professional pride than to leave a hack-job in his wake.
If you do bring in a pro, and you have the 3 prong outlet, you might have them add an external ground wire to the the circuit and upgrade the plug to the 4 prong while he adds in a separate 110 volt outlet in the area. The 4 prongs are the new standard.
That is such an amazing idea! If only they made one with a duplex receptacle, and dual 20A fuses. That would be great for temporary power for remodeling and such.
looks permanent solution to me. you are probably not going to find one for a 3 prong stove receptacle, because it would be an ungrounded outlet. you might find one that goes becomes a 2 prong outlet, but I sort of doubt it. The safety law suite patrol would jump all over that given the slightest excuse.
Underwriters Laboratory Approval is not mandatory for a product to be for sale in the US
Hate to tell you but the more I looked into that adapter it apparently not available in the US. All the sites that have it are in Canada. I can find no info that say is UL approved.
Looks like you have to change the breaker and the receptacle. Sorry for the false start.
It does look like a good idea and with the internal breaker it seems that it is safe enough. It is not available in a 3 prong version for a very good reason, many 3 wire installs used the ground of a SE cable for the neutral.
I am having a natural gas line installed to the stove. The plumber told me (I believe he said by code) that the 220v line for the old electric stove needs to be de-activated, and a 110v line needs to be added.
If that was the case, manufacturers would not be making Duel fuel type stoves & ovens. I would leave the 220 there, and just lock out the breaker for it in the panel. If you need 120 for the ignition/clock circuit for the stove, either pull a new line in to plug it in, or just plug it on the outlet on the counter, if the cord will reach.
You can use an existing SABC that is already there to power the stove for the 120v.
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