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Old 01-21-2013, 08:36 PM   #16
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Cut pipe or move meter cable?


Perhaps the "idiot" used an existing hole for the new SE. That is something this "idiot" would have done.

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Old 01-21-2013, 08:39 PM   #17
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Cut pipe or move meter cable?


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Perhaps the "idiot" used an existing hole for the new SE. That is something this "idiot" would have done.
Yeah rather than boring another large hole in the home it's what I would have done too.
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:52 PM   #18
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Cut pipe or move meter cable?


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Yeah rather than boring another large hole in the home it's what I would have done too.
I assume hiring an electrician to disconnect the cable and run it underneath the copper pipe would be rather expensive.

I'm greatful there is only one large hole bored into the side of my house.
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:08 PM   #19
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Cut pipe or move meter cable?


Probably more expensive than the pipe. But you could always price out both ways. The only deal with the heating pipe you will want to make sure that the antifreeze solution is still strong after you remove the fluid and pressurize it again.
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:14 PM   #20
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Cut pipe or move meter cable?


Looking at the pic again that pipe will be squeezing the wire against the wood all the time and since heating pipes expand and contract all the time it don't sound like a good idea. I would add some elbows and go over the wire to clear it and leave some room.
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:34 AM   #21
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Cut pipe or move meter cable?


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Probably more expensive than the pipe. But you could always price out both ways. The only deal with the heating pipe you will want to make sure that the antifreeze solution is still strong after you remove the fluid and pressurize it again.
Actually it would just be heated water, no antifreeze in a system that old.
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:45 AM   #22
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Cut pipe or move meter cable?


If the heating system is inside an always heated house there is no reason for anti freeze in it.
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:34 AM   #23
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Cut pipe or move meter cable?


At some point someone wrote "anti-freeze" on the pipes with marker, so I'm assuming they have anti-freeze in them.

Adding elbows and going over the wires sounds like a good plan. If working with Shark bites I can do it with my father in law.
If it involved moving the cable I'd have to hire someone.

Thanks guys!
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:48 AM   #24
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Cut pipe or move meter cable?


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Old 01-22-2013, 02:07 PM   #25
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Cut pipe or move meter cable?


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damn that's awesome....that might be the route I go!

Thanks!
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:52 PM   #26
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Cut pipe or move meter cable?


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That aluminum se cable I always find it to be really easy to bend. It's the URD cables and larger copper that I find are usually hard to bend. Most I ever get to deal with around here is 250 300.

What kind of puller do you use on a pull like that?
I used Greenlee Tugger 8Klbs class unit they work allright for most of the pull beside some very long vertical pull we used differnt puller for that purpose.

But for few very light pulls we have smaller unit that fit our purpose.

Merci,
Marc
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Old 01-23-2013, 05:14 AM   #27
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Cut pipe or move meter cable?


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PS All houses are wire 220 from the incoming power line, it gets split in the panel box to 110 on each side.
They may have upgraded for say a 60 to a 100 amps panel or more but did not "change" it to 220 V.
Believe it or not there some houses that still only have 110 volts services.
I have switched several from 110 to 220 in the past year.
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:53 PM   #28
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Believe it or not there some houses that still only have 110 volts services.
I have switched several from 110 to 220 in the past year.
For the past couple years I working in France and there is only just few left still on 127 volt network system and that about pretty much history beside the motel some of the fancyer one do have optional 120 volt circuit avaiable but not all locations will have that on hand.

Merci,
Marc

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