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Old 05-26-2013, 05:38 PM   #121
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Cut off switch for car battery blowing fuses


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Originally Posted by IAmSupernova View Post
Is there any way at all that the battery could be being drained and not show on that light? By that I mean if I hook it up in a series with the battery and just sit there and watch all night, is there even the remotest possibility that an entire, fully charged battery could completely discharge but not ever once even blink the light?

Also, should the light come on if I turn the keys to the acc on position (just before the cranking position) and have it in a series with the negative battery terminal? I did that, too and it still wouldn't light (was trying to make it come on to test the light, I didn't think just touching it to the positive and negative battery terminals was a good idea, if I was wrong and that could test it, let me know).
yes hooking up to the pos and neg terminal will test the light that what it does .. just a simple basic thing that actually tells a lot


YES for sure it should light ....
maybe you do not have a good connection somethings you have to wiggle the aligator part to make sure it is good or the other side

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Old 05-26-2013, 05:42 PM   #122
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Cut off switch for car battery blowing fuses


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Okay the way it was assembled out of the package the light wasn't making good contact with the probe, it wasn't lighting up even when hooked directly to the battery. Fixed that, and yes it's lighting up now. I know what I'm supposed to do now, but I'm still confused. The light will be lit up even by the 30 mA drain I've measured, right? So how do I know what is actually draining my battery and what is normal? I can have wife watch the light (not today, she had to take my grandma to the ER) as I pull fuses, but won't the light go off when I eventually pull the fuse for whatever is drawing that 30mA?
Yes..... assuming the draw (or short) is after your fuse (hate to bring it up, but someone could have wired something in before the fuse, or a short in some cableing going to the fuse box).

I think the thought here was if you could find the draw pulling your 25MA, that might be a possible place that is creating the higher draw that drains your battery.


I'm no automotive guru, but I would think 25ma would actually be pretty normal draw when your car is shut down,... just to maintain your car's computer systems and clock... maybe even a security system.

MPOUL's idea was based on the different testing senario of watching your multi-meter for a greater draw, and then pulling fuses to see what circut was causing that draw. But, we/you have not even been able to find when that draw occurs, let alone where by pulling fuses.

I'm stumped untill you can experience that higher draw that we think is draining your battery overnight.


EDIT:Going back out to left field ,or the parking lot, with flaky ideas... has anyone ever heard of a cars computer system screwing up and turning things on erratically.??????
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Old 05-26-2013, 05:43 PM   #123
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Cut off switch for car battery blowing fuses


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Okay the way it was assembled out of the package the light wasn't making good contact with the probe, it wasn't lighting up even when hooked directly to the battery. Fixed that, and yes it's lighting up now. I know what I'm supposed to do now, but I'm still confused. The light will be lit up even by the 30 mA drain I've measured, right? So how do I know what is actually draining my battery and what is normal? I can have wife watch the light (not today, she had to take my grandma to the ER) as I pull fuses, but won't the light go off when I eventually pull the fuse for whatever is drawing that 30mA?
no the light should not light with 25mA normally bright .. it would be dim


here is what i was going to say way back but i wanted to be sure ....

I think that there is a posibility that the reading on the meter was 2.5 amps not 25 mA ... the test light lighting kinda confirms that for me ....maybe looking at the wrong scale or something

because you will always have a little coming from the bat even with the key off ....

now that it is lite with the key off ...

the first place to elimitate would be that alturnator .... electricaly disconnect it ...

if you get the bulb to not light or very very dim you have found your problem ....
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Old 05-26-2013, 05:54 PM   #124
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Cut off switch for car battery blowing fuses


Okay then at least I'm getting somewhere now? I'll try to fit it in tomorrow.. Not looking forward to this, it's not easily accessible. Do I need to disconnect all the wires coming/going from the alternator? Or is just one enough? There's one up top I think I might be able to get loose without having to take everything apart..
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Old 05-26-2013, 05:58 PM   #125
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Cut off switch for car battery blowing fuses


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no the light should not light with 25mA normally bright .. it would be dim


here is what i was going to say way back but i wanted to be sure ....

I think that there is a posibility that the reading on the meter was 2.5 amps not 25 mA ... the test light lighting kinda confirms that for me ....maybe looking at the wrong scale or something

because you will always have a little coming from the bat even with the key off ....

now that it is lite with the key off ...

the first place to elimitate would be that alturnator .... electricaly disconnect it ...

if you get the bulb to not light or very very dim you have found your problem ....

GOOD POINT PHILLY..... but I'm not sure super has tested and seen a bright lite in series yet. I think he was testing his light across the battery terinals (because that's where I told him to test it...test the lite that is when he could not get it to work)

Incidentally, will 25ma visibly light (even dim) one of those testers... are we sure?.... I just don't know what kinda bulb that is.
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Old 05-26-2013, 06:09 PM   #126
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Cut off switch for car battery blowing fuses



My readings, I was told this would be 31 mA (didn't use the number 31, was probably 0.29 or something I asked about.)

Also correction.. It's 31 the readings don't go over, not 30. Also, yes I hooked the light up in a series with the neg battery terminal and the light came on. It was pretty dim even when hooking it up to the battery but I have a feeling it's pretty low and needs to be charged and am going to wait until it's charged for further testing.

EDIT: Bulb is 24 volt 3 watt bayonet? I guess that's the type it is. That's all the information I can really find out about it.

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Old 05-26-2013, 06:42 PM   #127
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Cut off switch for car battery blowing fuses


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My readings, I was told this would be 31 mA (didn't use the number 31, was probably 0.29 or something I asked about.)

Also correction.. It's 31 the readings don't go over, not 30. Also, yes I hooked the light up in a series with the neg battery terminal and the light came on. It was pretty dim even when hooking it up to the battery but I have a feeling it's pretty low and needs to be charged and am going to wait until it's charged for further testing.

EDIT: Bulb is 24 volt 3 watt bayonet? I guess that's the type it is. That's all the information I can really find out about it.

GUYS .... I'm not familiar with that multimeter...

But super is plugged into the 10A unfused socket on his MM, rather than the low amp miliamp plug....but his dial is on MA

Now the screen sure appears to be reading 31 ma to me, but is everyone sure that's the correct setup on Supers MM.

Just asking and double checking
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Old 05-26-2013, 07:07 PM   #128
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Cut off switch for car battery blowing fuses


Don't remember who but someone told me to do it that way. With it in the other socket, the reading is 0.02-0.04
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Old 05-26-2013, 07:19 PM   #129
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Cut off switch for car battery blowing fuses


With the meter connected as shown, you are pulling a 310ma load. See the DC10A position below it? Move the switch to that....I bet the only difference in your display will be the ma indication is gone.

If when you use the other meter lead and get a .3ma reading...chances are the fuse is blown and your not really measuring anything.

You have a .3a load. That is what is killing your battery.

That is assuming this meter does not auto range.

Anyway...move the switch and report back
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Old 05-26-2013, 07:37 PM   #130
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Cut off switch for car battery blowing fuses


The change in display isn't only the m disappearing, but the decimal moves as well.. Flash obscures it but first pic is with it in the 10A setting. I don't know if this makes a difference or not. Anyways for good measure I took pics the other way as well. It's showing something more than 0.04 now though. I guess clamping on the leads made a better connection.. If this changes things I won't even be mad that I've been doing it wrong all this time.. I just want to fix this damn thing.


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Old 05-26-2013, 08:10 PM   #131
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The 10A setting would be the one to use. It's unclear whether the meter is actually measuring anything when you have the leads configured for 10A but the selector on mA. Some meters do; others don't. It's also unclear whether your mA range is working at all - the fuse may be blown. The 10A scale is appropriate for finding whatever load is draining your battery. You should probably verify that the meter is working properly by turning on a load (dome light should be fine) and making sure the current reading is appropriate. Then wait. Or use my prior suggestion of installing a small fuse to indicate when a large load has been drawn, so you can figure out the timing.
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Old 05-26-2013, 08:12 PM   #132
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Okay well with it in the 10A socket and the selector on the 10A switch, what is .028? Is that 28 mA?
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Old 05-26-2013, 10:24 PM   #133
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Cut off switch for car battery blowing fuses


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Okay well with it in the 10A socket and the selector on the 10A switch, what is .028? Is that 28 mA?
280ma

.0 = Tenths
.00 = Hundreds
.000= thousand

That is still too much for standby loss.

Look at one of few relay box and see CPU or main engine fuse pull that out if that drop then something is drawing more current than it supposed to be.

If not changed at all then put that fuse back on then go to other high amp fuse do one at time and see if that current drawage do drop once you find it then trace it down to find the cuprit.

Merci,
Marc
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Old 05-26-2013, 10:52 PM   #134
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Okay. Soon as I can I'm going to get the battery recharged and do some more testing.
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Old 05-27-2013, 12:56 AM   #135
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280ma

.0 = Tenths
.00 = Hundreds
.000= thousand

That is still too much for standby loss.

Look at one of few relay box and see CPU or main engine fuse pull that out if that drop then something is drawing more current than it supposed to be.

If not changed at all then put that fuse back on then go to other high amp fuse do one at time and see if that current drawage do drop once you find it then trace it down to find the cuprit.

Merci,
Marc
Well guys... we got all sorts of readings here.... all still pretty small.

Super.... French is really smart... I think he just saw your post wrong... but point 028 (.028) is 28 ma ... not 280ma.

However, without fully analysing the meter, we did see 310ma on one reading and 150 on another. Both of those are much a multiple of 25-30ma... but still seemingly not big enough to knock your battery down overnight.

Let's try and get the draw reading figured out tomorrow.

Peter

(Incidentally, I'm pretty sure on your MM that the 10A dial setting with its appropriate plug is designating max reading and not a multiple of the reading. That conclusion, as is normal operation of mm, means .o28 is 28ma, not 280ma.
I think French will agree, or correct me, if he rereads your post.)

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