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Old 06-23-2012, 12:57 AM   #16
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copper clad aluminum


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It's just that when you have 3 " master electricians" come into your home and they tell you the way "they" would go about pigtailing copper to copper clad aluminum is by using a regular wire nut with Noalox.
Those so called "master" electricians should try educating themselves first before claiming that title.

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Old 06-23-2012, 01:11 AM   #17
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Where do they get the education from? I can't find any definitive answers concerning the "proper" action required with the use of copper clad aluminum anywhere. So they definitely can't educate themselves on the internet which is the only place to get a good eduamicasion.. Especially when it involves electricity..
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Old 06-23-2012, 01:16 AM   #18
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Where do they get the education from? I can't find any definitive answers concerning the "proper" action required with the use of copper clad aluminum anywhere. So they definitely can't educate themselves on the internet which is the only place to get a good eduamicasion.. Especially when it involves electricity..
The nec code section has already been posted...so why anyone would suggest a wire nut and noalox is beyond me.
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Old 06-23-2012, 01:24 AM   #19
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copper clad aluminum


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Where do they get the education from? I can't find any definitive answers concerning the "proper" action required with the use of copper clad aluminum anywhere. So they definitely can't educate themselves on the internet which is the only place to get a good eduamicasion.. Especially when it involves electricity..
You learn from doing, and working beside those with experience. The thing is, you are blowing this whole thing out of proportion. Aluminum is no more dangerous as Copper, as long as it is done correctly. That means proper equipment, using the correct methods to terminate and also making sure that it is maintained as specified by the rules and instructions in the NEC, and manufacturer spec's.

Now of course, those who like to strike fear into people, for instance Home Inspectors, that do not understand that AL is no more dangerous than Cu, as long as you install and maintain it properly, love to cause the Chicken Little Effect.

It is only when people bypass proper rules, do not maintain and inspect the equipment or wiring, then you have problems. The reason that Copper is placed over Aluminum wiring, is to protect it from oxidizing. Now of course, you are probably wondering, what is keeping the little small amount showing at the end of the "stinger" from oxidizing, it would be because, there is not enough surface area for it to happen.

If you look at your main drop, or even at the high voltage wires across the distribution systems, it is the majority Aluminum wire at the core.
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Old 06-23-2012, 08:24 AM   #20
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i'm from canada and it took me about 30 seconds to find the NEC rule on google so i suggest the internet is a great place to find out
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I'm here to learn too, i do mostly commercial/industrial/new construction and this place is a great way to pick up tips on residential from some good electrical minds. Excuse the spelling, my phone has a mind of it's own.
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Old 06-23-2012, 08:43 AM   #21
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And again. The NEC 110.14 is vague in the least. ical contact occurs between dissimilar conductors (such as copper and aluminum, copper AND copper-clad aluminum, or aluminum and copper-clad aluminum), unless the device is identified for the purpose and conditions of use. So let me break the "answer" down. If you use copper to aluminum, you use a CU/AL connector. If you use copper and copper-clad aluminum, then by what you're saying you use a CU/AL connector. But if you use aluminum and copper-clad you use...um.. AL/AL but wait, it states it's a dissimilar conductor, so you would use a AL/CU connector? If it was a similar conductor why would it even list it?
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Old 06-23-2012, 08:51 AM   #22
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And again. The NEC 110.14 is vague in the least. ical contact occurs between dissimilar conductors (such as copper and aluminum, copper AND copper-clad aluminum, or aluminum and copper-clad aluminum), unless the device is identified for the purpose and conditions of use. So let me break the "answer" down. If you use copper to aluminum, you use a CU/AL connector. If you use copper and copper-clad aluminum, then by what you're saying you use a CU/AL connector. But if you use aluminum and copper-clad you use...um.. AL/AL but wait, it states it's a dissimilar conductor, so you would use a AL/CU connector? If it was a similar conductor why would it even list it?
I don't see where it is vague at all, you need a device listed for cu and cu clad aluminum... if you can't find such a device listed for your application then just abandon the existing wiring. You're just reading the section the way you want to read it, not the way it was written.
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Old 06-23-2012, 09:00 AM   #23
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So you're stating that the millions of americans that have copper clad wiring should.. Gut their houses?
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Old 06-23-2012, 09:04 AM   #24
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So you're stating that the millions of americans that have copper clad wiring should.. Gut their houses?
Of course not, just don't splice the existing wiring with wire of different characteristics of dissimilar metals without an approved device.
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Old 06-23-2012, 09:11 AM   #25
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I understand that. It is the year 2012.. Am I the only person with a house from the 70's that is trying to update a home to "code" that requires GFCI in the kitchen whom has copper clad wiring? Maybe it has never been an issue because the "masters" just use the regular CU/CU wire nuts, with the Noalox and deem that as meeting code requirements. They obviously must have passed a few inspections in there day.. Again, I'm just a son trying to do right for his parents. I just am trying to find out the "right" way.
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Old 06-23-2012, 09:15 AM   #26
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I understand that. It is the year 2012.. Am I the only person with a house from the 70's that is trying to update a home to "code" that requires GFCI in the kitchen whom has copper clad wiring? Maybe it has never been an issue because the "masters" just use the regular CU/CU wire nuts, with the Noalox and deem that as meeting code requirements. They obviously must have passed a few inspections in there day.. Again, I'm just a son trying to do right for his parents. I just am trying to find out the "right" way.
You certainly can do whatever you want to, but if it was my insurance and liability, you would be getting a new circuit installed.
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Old 06-23-2012, 09:42 AM   #27
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So I just found interesting info on UL.com. I don't know how to copy and paste from a PDF file so I will just type it out. Supply terminals of 15A and 20A switches and receptacles NOT marked "CO/ALR" are for use with copper and copper-clad aluminum conductors only. Terminals MARKED "CO/ALR" are for use with aluminum, copper, and copper-clad aluminum... So with that being read, I technically can hook a standard GFCI directly to the copper-clad aluminum without using a copper pigtail at all.. correct?
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Old 06-23-2012, 10:13 AM   #28
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So I just found interesting info on UL.com. I don't know how to copy and paste from a PDF file so I will just type it out. Supply terminals of 15A and 20A switches and receptacles NOT marked "CO/ALR" are for use with copper and copper-clad aluminum conductors only. Terminals MARKED "CO/ALR" are for use with aluminum, copper, and copper-clad aluminum... So with that being read, I technically can hook a standard GFCI directly to the copper-clad aluminum without using a copper pigtail at all.. correct?
Yes. but I would adhere to the tightening torques of the device being installed...
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Old 06-23-2012, 10:19 AM   #29
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So if I can hook copper clad aluminum to a CU receptacle, then wouldn't it be interpreted that I would be able to use a CU/CU wire nut for a copper to copper clad splice?
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Old 06-23-2012, 10:25 AM   #30
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So if I can hook copper clad aluminum to a CU receptacle, then wouldn't it be interpreted that I would be able to use a CU/CU wire nut for a copper to copper clad splice?
No, because the device is listed, the wire nut it not...

Just like the NEC says. As I stated before, you can "do" anything you want. Here is an opinion for you though, why not install the copper clad on one set of screws on the device, and copper on the other set of screws, this way you have a legal splice.


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