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Old 11-23-2010, 03:08 PM   #1
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Conduit is code


Is this a nation wide thing or just my village. Going to remodel kitchen and rewire. They say I can't use romex or Bx just conduit . So I have to notch out the the 2x4's to run the conduit.What a pain in butt.

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Old 11-23-2010, 03:13 PM   #2
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Conduit is code


That is a County code. Most of North East Illinois is that way. Lake/Cook Counties.

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Old 11-23-2010, 03:21 PM   #3
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Conduit is code


It just makes it so much harder.
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Old 11-23-2010, 07:55 PM   #4
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Conduit is code


I have dealt with their area once a while but their county code is pretty strict and they don't really have much leeway on it.

This type of topic did come up from time to time and we do have couple members live in that area so they are well versed with the codes.

I will try to find it somehow.

Merci.
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Old 11-23-2010, 11:17 PM   #5
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Conduit is code


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Is this a nation wide thing or just my village. Going to remodel kitchen and rewire. They say I can't use romex or Bx just conduit . So I have to notch out the the 2x4's to run the conduit.What a pain in butt.
Better to drill holes and use couplers than to notch, from a structural standpoint.

With the walls open, it does not take that long.

Take photos and show us where things go if you want and we can suggest the best way to run the conduit. With the walls open less than a 1 day job to put in the boxes and drill holes / install conduit for a good size kitchen.

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Old 11-23-2010, 11:28 PM   #6
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Conduit is code


For notching as long it is not load bearing wall it ok but with load bearing this part you have to becarefull all depending on the stud size if you have 2X4 or 2X6 that will make the differenace.

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Old 11-23-2010, 11:40 PM   #7
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Conduit is code


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For notching as long it is not load bearing wall it ok but with load bearing this part you have to becarefull all depending on the stud size if you have 2X4 or 2X6 that will make the differenace.

Merci.
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Check out this page: http://dougaphs.smugmug.com/Do-It-Yo...54363278_gqqMS

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Old 12-02-2010, 10:21 AM   #8
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Conduit is code


Thanks Jamie that was alot of help. It will be easier to drill holes than try to notch them all the same. Only thing that dont make sense. It shows you can bore a bigger hole in a load bearing wall. You would think it would be smaller on a load bearing.

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Old 12-02-2010, 03:11 PM   #9
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Conduit is code


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Thanks Jamie that was alot of help. It will be easier to drill holes than try to notch them all the same. Only thing that dont make sense. It shows you can bore a bigger hole in a load bearing wall. You would think it would be smaller on a load bearing.
Yes, I see that as well. I would make the same assumption as you that they should be less on a load bearing wall, perhaps this picture got it reversed.

Your going to be making holes that are smaller than the limit on either one of them right?

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Old 12-02-2010, 07:25 PM   #10
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Conduit is code


Jamie.,

I will just reverse the pattern between the load bearing and nonload bearing walls.

Due I know nonload bearing walls you can have larger holes bore out but becarefull with the number of holes you bore out espcally with plumming pipes.

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Old 12-02-2010, 08:19 PM   #11
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Conduit is code


Not going to make the holes any bigger than i have to.
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Old 12-02-2010, 11:00 PM   #12
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Conduit is code


I'm kind of late to this but maybe something you can use.

to make notches; a couple slices with a circular saw and break out the chunk with channel lock pliers.

If your notches get big, there are repair pieces that cover the notch and go along the sides of the stud. There are versions available that restore structural ratings.


Be sure to put nailers over the conduit. Don't care what anybody says; you can run sheetrock screws through conduit.


If running in bored holes; If you can get to the end of a wall, you can drill through all the studs, including the last stud that you don't have any conduit going through. That way you can feed uncut (or at least longer lengths) of conduit through that hole and on through the rest of the wall.

If you don't have that available, simply take a bundle of conduit is cut it at the max length you can stick in the hole in one stud, slip it in as far as you can and be able to get the other end into the stud cavity. Depending on the size of your hole and conduit, you get a slight variety in that length but it ends up about the stud spacing distance.

Buy a bunch of couplings to put the pieces together.

do not forget to ream the cut ends of the conduit before you put it in the wall.

Make sets of offsets or 90 angles or whatever you are using to get into the box from the conduit run. They should all be the same, or close (but one set means there are two pieces reverse from each other). That way you can run the straight conduit it, whack it where you want a box, set it, add the connector pieces and tighten everything.

If using 5/8" sheetrock, use 3/4" plaster rings. I find that generally using a mud ring 1/8" deeper that the sheetrock used gives you the best fit at surface level.

Put your ground tails in the boxes before mounting. I prefer 8" stranded with the terminal and screw already attached.

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