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-   -   compressor... to hard wire (http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/compressor-hard-wire-13212/)

crecore 11-08-2007 07:54 PM

compressor... to hard wire
 
Hey all, I bought a used compressor for my garage. It's 4hp 80 gallon two stage, draws about 18 amps at 230v. I had already run 10-3 to a metal j'box with a dbl 30 so I have plenty of juice. The compressor is std three wire. The guy before me had it hard wired to his panel box with about 15' of that flexible metal conduit, not sealtite but the armor stuff.

I only need to run like a foot (good planning). Several questions:

Should I degrade the circuit to 20a or leave it at 30a?

Second, I see no advantage at this point to buying a plug and matching receptacle over hard wiring.

Third, can't I just drill 3/4" hole in metal jbox cover and use std bx connector (those armor connectors are nothing special in my eyes)?

Also should I cut back his 15' of wire and armor or leave it in case I ever need to move the unit?

btw, the compressor will not be lagged to the floor but will be lagged to two opposing walls with angle iron.

I have not had my electrical inspection yet so the inspector may look at this too.

thanks

goose134 11-08-2007 09:52 PM

I should preface these answers by saying that these are Chicago answers. We don't use NM for ANYTHING other than temporary power.

1. Keep the 30 amp and the #10's

2. Leave it hard wired, but provide a disconnect. A single pole 30A switch should be sufficient.

As for the rest, leave the armor cable (If it's approved for the location) and the connectors I cannot comment on.

crecore 11-09-2007 06:39 PM

I bought the proper armor connector. Residential use, I dont need a disconnect because I can see the panel box from the device.

J. V. 11-10-2007 12:02 PM

It sounds like you are good to go. As long as the connector is intended for the use in a knock out hole, your okay.
If you are using 3/4" conduit, a 3/4" hole will be to small.


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