Thanks everyone for your replies.
Originally Posted by Scuba_Dave
My concern would be having that outlet behind the wood stove
As long as required clearances are met it should be OK
But I know how hot my wood stove used to get at the old house
Are you keeping the wall drywall?
I used brick at my last house to create a large heat sink
This house I will be using stone
I don't see any specific problem with the setup
I have 2 outlets on my mantel - but live all the time
Is that the stove exhaust or fresh air intake?
Yes, the wall will be fireblock drywall, plastered.
I actually had to look at a lotttt of stoves to find one with close enough clearances for this installation...it's a very narrow room, and most of them would have stuck oddly into the middle of the room. This one (Hearthstone brand, model is a Shelburne) only needs 6" from the corner of the stove to a flammable wall (with the optional heat shield, which i also bought). Technically, this means i could actually have kept the incredibly dry antique wood on the walls, by manufacturers specs. However, i realllly was not comfortable with that , which is why i am doing the fireblock wall instead.
The vent is for a cold air intake, yep...this is an old house, and the combustion drawing air from inside the house would likely cause some serious drafting.
Originally Posted by AllanJ
The hole in the 2x4 counts as a support so you don't always have to stretch the cable over to another 2x4 to staple it in place. If the last hole is more than 8 inches from the box (12 inches if the box opening has a clamp or finger to hold the cable) then you would need to curve the wire gently to a suitable spot on the 2x4 and staple it there.
The box with 3 cables going into it needs to be extra large, like 21 cubic inches, if you have a 20 amp. circuit with 12 gauge wires, or if there are wire clamps at the box openings protruding into the box.
Nit picking: Since you have the wall open, I would rerun the wire at the lower left to go through alternate stud cavities not shared by the stove pipe. Two cables can share the same hole if they fit loosely.
Hmm..dangit. I come up with 19.5 cubic inches, with the box pictured. I suppose i could use a double box, then?
As for moving that other wire, i would either have to cut it out of the studs, or disassemble the baseboard heater to disconnect it and pull it back through the holes...i wonder if it'd be worth it, since the vent pipe is only a cold-air intake?
Originally Posted by joed
I would make one change. Instead of going across and down I would go down from the switch and then across. Going to be difficult getting into the top of that box when coming from above unless you remove the 2x4 cross brace or lower the box.
Ahh, good point. Thanks, i'll do that.