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-   -   Can garage feeder be spliced to SE once inside? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/can-garage-feeder-spliced-se-once-inside-105715/)

WillK 05-26-2011 09:40 PM

Can garage feeder be spliced to SE once inside?
 
2 Attachment(s)
Let me just get right to the question.

My underground run for my garage subpanel feeder is 1/0 XHWN. (inside 2" rigid conduit)

After it enters the building, can this be spliced inside a junction box to either a 2/0 SEU cable or a 4/0 SER cable using the splices shown below? And if so, I presume that either shrink wrap or electrical tape would need to go over, what are the requirements for that?

junkcollector 05-26-2011 10:12 PM

I am sorry I made a mistake when I replied to your post yesterday. I misread it.

Yes to your question, you can use the splices you show. I would look into getting some polaris taps, they are preinsulated. Failing that, the setscrew splicer/ reducers you show will work (right pic). I recommend wrapping first with standard tape inside out (to enable re-entry in the future) and covering with rubber tape and finally standard tape again, or a heavy shrink sleeve. (not the cheap kind)

I am confused, how do you plan on satisifying the disconnecting rules of NEC 225.32 calling for the disconnecting means being nearest the point of entry? When I wire a detached building with a subpanel, I have the feeder come right into the panel either from the back or bottom or top. I don't see how it is compliant to have it run for a ways inside first. I maybe missed that part of the project? Maybe I am losing it?

WillK 05-26-2011 10:31 PM

On the garage and house end, the conduit comes out of the ground, through an LB and then through a 5" long conduit nipple. That's the present setup. That gets the wire through the wall pretty close to the floor. From there, there's something like 5' of cable to get to the breaker.

I'm looking at the splices so I can use SE cable the rest of the way instead of having to use conduit because when I failed inspection, I had the conductors connected and everything, and I suspect that when I run through conduit I'll loose some cable length and not be able to reach the breakers on both ends.

I told my wife the rest of the materials to fix the issues from the inspector would be about $195, and she asked if I really needed all of that to get through rough inspection. It ended up being $295. I'll probably be dead tommorrow morning.

-Edit- I think I have a way to save my life! HD screwed up, they charged me for 2 weather resistant GFCI's, but I bought 1 WR GFCI and 1 WR receptacle that isn't GFCI. So I can tell my wife they overcharged me and I need to go back and get it fixed. At least it will buy some time!

WillK 05-26-2011 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by junkcollector (Post 655843)
I am sorry I made a mistake when I replied to your post yesterday. I misread it.

Yes to your question, you can use the splices you show. I would look into getting some polaris taps, they are preinsulated. Failing that, the setscrew splicer/ reducers you show will work (right pic). I recommend wrapping first with standard tape inside out (to enable re-entry in the future) and covering with rubber tape and finally standard tape again, or a heavy shrink sleeve. (not the cheap kind)

I am confused, how do you plan on satisifying the disconnecting rules of NEC 225.32 calling for the disconnecting means being nearest the point of entry? When I wire a detached building with a subpanel, I have the feeder come right into the panel either from the back or bottom or top. I don't see how it is compliant to have it run for a ways inside first. I maybe missed that part of the project? Maybe I am losing it?

Are you talking about the run between the meter and the main panel? The subject here is the detatched garage feeder. And I think confusion is understandable, I need more diagrams and pictures, but it's kind of hard to get pics until I get everything put together because everything is queued up for installation. (aka piled up all over the place)

Saturday Cowboy 05-27-2011 12:06 AM

just to be sure you do know that those splices would have to be in a jbox like a 10x10 or the like?


You are right you are going to lose some length, what I would do is to pull the cables toward the house end and make it up proper using PVC conduit to get to the house panel. use a RGC threaded coupling and a pvc connector (MA) to make your transition, it's cheaper than a jbox if you don't need to splice. then you should be able to in the garage, do the same thing till you run out of cable, (hopefully with in ~ 5') then you install Jbox and splices to make up the length to panel.

WillK 05-27-2011 07:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Saturday Cowboy (Post 655901)
just to be sure you do know that those splices would have to be in a jbox like a 10x10 or the like?

Yes, actually even though I would only splice one end, I need a box on both ends because of the 3-way switch wiring. And since that is in the junction box, I'm going to splice those wires to NM cable so I can exit the box with a cable clamp instead of conduit.


Quote:

You are right you are going to lose some length, what I would do is to pull the cables toward the house end and make it up proper using PVC conduit to get to the house panel. use a RGC threaded coupling and a pvc connector (MA) to make your transition, it's cheaper than a jbox if you don't need to splice. then you should be able to in the garage, do the same thing till you run out of cable, (hopefully with in ~ 5') then you install Jbox and splices to make up the length to panel.
I was thinking that I'd do the splice on the house side because I have the house panel mounted flush and the garage panel is surface mounted... My thinking was that because I'd be coming up to the garage panel outside the wall, the conduit would be necessary for physical protection.

But when I think about it, actually it probably makes sense to do the splice in the garage, bring the SE cable up inside the wall and come into the panel through the back. Or the top. Or even the side for that matter.

Can I use the 4/0 SE-R? I would really be relieved to not have to twist the neutral from SE-U. If so, would would I do with the ground in the junction box... I wouldn't have anything to connect to. Can I just bond a grounding lug? Should there be somewhere to bond in the box?


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