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Old 05-31-2012, 12:59 PM   #1
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Can anyone figure out how this wireless remote light switch installs?


I just ordered this wireless remote control light switch, but it came with no instructions (not even Chinese!). It's used to remotely control up to 4 lamps/lights. I've done an exhaustive search on Google, and I was not able to find anything at all (from any manufacturer on any brand) on how to install and wire these type of switches. Not even a single photo anywhere that shows where these things are supposed to be installed! I don't want to connect live current to it and play "guessies" with the wires. So I'm turning to the experts to help me figure it out!

I checked continuity with the multimeter (with the switch out of circuit), and it tells me the two black wires are always connected (no matter what you press on the remote). But neither black nor red connects with the other colored wires, no matter which button I press on the remote. Both red and black wires use solid core silver wire, while the second black wire at the far right uses stranded copper (and so do the other colored wires, except perhaps for the light blue wire on top).

I think i can safely presume the 4 colored wires (blue/white/yellow/green) each go to an individual lamp. But what's confusing me is, lamps have 2 wires, and so do wall switch outlets. So I don't see how you can connect 4 different lamps on this switch, as it would seem to require at least 8 wires (at the bottom). Unless they expect you to connect multiple wires on a single black?

Really not sure what the single blue wire on top is for (on my model, this is actually colored white). It is of smaller diameter than the others, and has no metal wire protruding out of it. Just a clear plastic "sheath". Could it be a blue colored ground??



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Old 05-31-2012, 01:42 PM   #2
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Can anyone figure out how this wireless remote light switch installs?


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I think i can safely presume the 4 colored wires (blue/white/yellow/green) each go to an individual lamp. But what's confusing me is, lamps have 2 wires, and so do wall switch outlets. So I don't see how you can connect 4 different lamps on this switch, as it would seem to require at least 8 wires (at the bottom). Unless they expect you to connect multiple wires on a single black?
The remote has buttons numbered 1-4. Blue goes to #1, white to #2, etc. You will only be taking these switch leg wires to the hot wire on the fixture. The other wire to the fixture is the neutral and does not run through the controller.


Really not sure what the single blue wire on top is for (on my model, this is actually colored white). It is of smaller diameter than the others, and has no metal wire protruding out of it. Just a clear plastic "sheath". Could it be a blue colored ground?? It's an antenna.
So, from what I see in the pics, I'd say this controller is intended to be used to be hard wired for up to four different lights. Or, if you are handy, you could wire up receptacles in such a way as to have one side of each receptacle connect to one of the different leads and plug lamps into them.

Is this rated for 120v? All of your terminations need to be inside a box of some sort rated for a 120v application. That would mean the controller has to be installed in a box but the antenna has to be able to be located where it can "talk" to the remote.

How did you intend to use this?

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Old 05-31-2012, 02:23 PM   #3
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Can anyone figure out how this wireless remote light switch installs?


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So, from what I see in the pics, I'd say this controller is intended to be used to be hard wired for up to four different lights.
Yes. It is. Only one wire on the lamp gets connected? And that's safe to only connect one wire on a lamp, given there's no connection for a ground wire on this switch thing? I know the red and black connect to the corresponding power wires from the outlet, but what is the second black wire for (the one on the far right made of stranded copper, that the diagram links with the 4 colored wires)?

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Is this rated for 120v?
It's not marked on the unit, but it should be. The title of the seller's eBay ad was "Wireless 4 Ways ON/OFF 220V/110V Light Remote Control Switch 1996".

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All of your terminations need to be inside a box of some sort rated for a 120v application.
This switch was bought for controlling a ceiling pendant lamp (23w fluoro bulb) which plugs into a standard 120v electrical outlet - and maybe to control a second small lamp. This means I intend to cut the plug off of the lamp, and wire its plug directly to the wiring on the switch. So if I only connect one wire on the lamp to one of the colored wires on the switch, that means I simply cap off the other wire on the lamp cord, yes?

If its necessary to keep terminations inside a box, then I guess I'll have to install a second junction box next to the electrical outlet. Because I don't want to give up the entire electrical outlet to the switch, as I want to be able to plug and unplug other things into it.

Thanks for your helpful response.

Last edited by Morris C.; 05-31-2012 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 05-31-2012, 02:34 PM   #4
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Can anyone figure out how this wireless remote light switch installs?


I just took another look at the wiring diagram on the controller. One black wire is for your incoming neutral and the other for the outgoing neutral going to the lamps. Unless there is a tracer color on one of the black wires I'd say it doesn't matter which one you use for what, just make sure the neutral on the incoming is separated from the neutral you take to the lamps.

The red would be connected to the hot wire.

Make sure you cap all unused wires (except the antenna wire). If you need a sketch drawn up, let me know.

BTW, the circled X on the controller box diagram represent the lamps.
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Old 05-31-2012, 02:36 PM   #5
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Can anyone figure out how this wireless remote light switch installs?


There's no way this device is UL Listed, and wouldn't be allowed in most jurisdictions without
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Old 05-31-2012, 02:49 PM   #6
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Can anyone figure out how this wireless remote light switch installs?


I did a Google search. It's made in China. Most sites are selling them in lots of 100.

It says it's rated for 120v/220v but that 220v rating is for European-type systems, not the same as 220v in the US. It's also rated for 3.6A but the controller says "Output per way: 1000W (general lamp) 250W (energy saver lamp)" That doesn't make any sense. Why would the wattage be reduced to 25% using an energy saver lamp?
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Old 05-31-2012, 03:39 PM   #7
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Can anyone figure out how this wireless remote light switch installs?


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I just took another look at the wiring diagram on the controller. One black wire is for your incoming neutral and the other for the outgoing neutral going to the lamps. Unless there is a tracer color on one of the black wires I'd say it doesn't matter which one you use for what, just make sure the neutral on the incoming is separated from the neutral you take to the lamps.
So if, for example, I want to plug in 4 lamps, the black wire on all 4 lamps would have to be connected with a wire nut to the single black wire on the switch? I am not sure there is an incoming black and an outgoing black, as there is continuity between both black wires according to my DMM. So if I connected it that way, I don't think the incoming and outgoing neutral (black wires) would be separated. There is no tracer color on the blacks, but there is one black that is stranded copper, while the other black is solid core silver wire. The red and black wires that are solid core silver appear to be designed to receive the incoming current from your electrical outlet. (All others are stranded copper).

Update: I did a dry run using a multimeter. I connected the current from the outlet to the silver cored red & black wires on the switch. Then the black probe to the second black wire, and the red probe to the blue wire (device #1). And it showed after pressing #1 on the remote, 120v, while other numbered buttons turned the voltage down to about 3.0v-4.5v.

Final Update: I think I figured it out ok (thanks to the help/support of JulieMor et al. ). I did another test, connecting the multimeter as above. But this time I connected a table lamp as well, into the switch. The stranded copper black wire (far right) from the switch was attached to both the multimeter probe and the neutral wire of the lamp cord. The blue wire (device #1) went to the other probe, the white wire (device #2) went to the hot wire of the lamp cord. Pressing button #1 gave me 120v on the meter. Pressing button #2 turned the lamp on. I could turn each of the two devices on and off independently (ie. lamp on, but 3.5v instead of 120v from multimeter).

This thing has an amazing range, too. There is nowhere in my place it won't work! Even when I'm pointing the remote around the corner in another room, away from the device!

Now all I have to do is make sure my fire insurance is paid up.

Last edited by Morris C.; 05-31-2012 at 04:33 PM.
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Old 05-31-2012, 03:40 PM   #8
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Can anyone figure out how this wireless remote light switch installs?


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I did a Google search. It's made in China. Most sites are selling them in lots of 100.

It says it's rated for 120v/220v but that 220v rating is for European-type systems, not the same as 220v in the US. It's also rated for 3.6A but the controller says "Output per way: 1000W (general lamp) 250W (energy saver lamp)" That doesn't make any sense. Why would the wattage be reduced to 25% using an energy saver lamp?
I understand that to mean the maximum wattage it is rated for is 250w fluorescent/led bulbs, up to 1000 for incandescent. While I can't explain their specifications, I can say all similar switches I've seen from various manufacturers have similar specifications (mine for example says 1000w incandescent, 200w energy saving).
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:39 PM   #9
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Can anyone figure out how this wireless remote light switch installs?


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There's no way this device is UL Listed, and wouldn't be allowed in most jurisdictions without
I think it says it is UL listed on the device. Except its in Chinese. And I don't read Chinese.

Oh, wait... there's something in English. A red circle on the unit that says "PASS". So you see, it "passed". That's good enough for me. $10 switch (shipping from Hong Kong included) bought on eBay, made in China, came in bubble wrap (no box) with no instructions in any language, comes complete with flimsy remote and does not list anywhere what its electrical specifications are so I have to go by the title of the seller's ad to even assume it works on 110 and hope that he's not lying to me? Hey, what could possibly go wrong?

Last edited by Morris C.; 05-31-2012 at 04:42 PM.
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Old 05-31-2012, 06:47 PM   #10
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Can anyone figure out how this wireless remote light switch installs?


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Hey, what could possibly go wrong?
Your house could burn down.
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Old 05-31-2012, 08:11 PM   #11
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Can anyone figure out how this wireless remote light switch installs?


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Your house could burn down.
Yeah, there's that. I could also get hit by a drunk driver while walking to the mailbox to send a letter, fall off the roof or get a brain tumour.

Speaking of tempting fate, I'm going a different way with this. I'm going to hack a power bar so I can install the switch through a power bar. Then all I have to do is plug any of 4 lamps into the power bar, and they'll be remotely controlled by the switch.

What could possibly go wrong?
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Old 05-31-2012, 08:43 PM   #12
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Can anyone figure out how this wireless remote light switch installs?


I think this thread is scaring me more than the one about the do it yourself x-ray machine.

Last edited by kevinp22; 05-31-2012 at 10:39 PM.
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Old 05-31-2012, 10:13 PM   #13
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Can anyone figure out how this wireless remote light switch installs?


a denied insurance claim

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