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Old 08-31-2013, 11:34 AM   #31
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Burying Conduit


Quote:
Originally Posted by k_buz
All the prebent 90's I have used have had a short straight section on each end so you don't have that problem. Did you cut the end of the 90 off?
No, I didn't. It was a 36" radius sweep, so basically the whole thing was a curve. Because of the bell depth, the curve started entering the bell and left a gap on the bottom. I suspect that the sweep made contact somewhere along the bell, but I think I'm going to use couplers going forward to avoid the issue.

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Old 08-31-2013, 11:36 AM   #32
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Burying Conduit


Couplings will make no difference. If the entire piece of conduit is bent, you will have the same problem.
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Old 08-31-2013, 11:42 AM   #33
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It's not as pronounced. The coupling only allows the sweep to enter about 1.5". The bell on a length of conduit is easily double that distance.
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Old 08-31-2013, 12:38 PM   #34
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Isn't going to matter, either way, the same amount of the sweep is going to be in contact with the coupling as the bell end.
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Old 08-31-2013, 03:07 PM   #35
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Burying Conduit


I just load up both ends and jam them together never worried about there being a gap. We are electricians not plumbers.

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Old 08-31-2013, 10:20 PM   #36
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Burying Conduit


Quote:
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So you use regular couplers? Regardless of sweep size?
most of the time, yes.
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Old 09-26-2013, 12:04 PM   #37
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Burying Conduit


Just a followup. We finished burying the conduit and built a pedestal. The electrician installed the meter socket and disconnect and it was inspected/passed on Monday. I do have a question about the installation though...

I've attached two photos: one showing the entire install and one showing a closeup of the meter box. The knockouts on the meter box and the disconnect do not line up perfectly, so the piece of conduit between them is slightly angled. Because of this, the remaining knockout rings in the meter box were pulled out, opening a gap to the inside of the box. During our last rain, a good amount of water got inside the box. It was like this when the inspector passed it, but I see this causing issues down the road with corrosion. Is this type of thing common or is this just sloppy workmanship? How concerned should I be about the water making it's way into the box?
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Last edited by Pittsville; 09-26-2013 at 12:07 PM.
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Old 09-26-2013, 03:09 PM   #38
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An offset should have been used or the disconnect shimmed out to the meter socket.

Why was the panel set in front of a window??
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Old 09-26-2013, 03:32 PM   #39
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An offset should have been used or the disconnect shimmed out to the meter socket.

Why was the panel set in front of a window??
The window is going away.

Using an offset makes sense. Should I have the electrician redo this? I assume he'd have to install a new meter box... or knock out more rings and use larger conduit on the existing box.
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Old 09-26-2013, 03:59 PM   #40
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There a repair washers (bushings) that can be used.
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Old 09-26-2013, 04:18 PM   #41
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Burying Conduit


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The window is going away.
There are minimum glazing and ventilation standards that apply. Hope you are up to speed on those for your area.
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Old 09-26-2013, 04:35 PM   #42
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There are minimum glazing and ventilation standards that apply. Hope you are up to speed on those for your area.
That portion of the home is being demo'd and rebuilt with the window in a different position.
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Old 09-26-2013, 04:36 PM   #43
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Burying Conduit


Quote:
Originally Posted by rjniles
There a repair washers (bushings) that can be used.
I'll ask about these. Thanks!
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Old 09-26-2013, 08:56 PM   #44
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Why did you use separate boxes? DP&L approved the Homeline RC816F200CH, available and in stock at United Electric, or by online order at the Home Depot:

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Old 09-26-2013, 09:48 PM   #45
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Burying Conduit


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There a repair washers (bushings) that can be used.
I dont see it as being damaged, as the rings are still intact.

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