I'm looking for the best way to mount a distribution block (Mersen Pwr Block) inside of a safety switch box. I've thought about just drilling holes in the box and using a bolt and nut to fasten the power block. Is this a bad idea or code violation? Another option is to use a set of rails, but I still may need to drill holes to mount them. I haven't been able to dig up any standard patterns for in-box mounting.
IMO, 480v is the most dangerous voltage. It's low enough that people think it's safe, but has enough oomph to severely injure/kill. It even gets professional electricians.
In many states what you are doing is illegal. Even if it isn't, you boss/company is taking on a tremendous liability be allowing you to do this.
The smart thing would be call a halt, then call an electrician.
I work in a lab type environment, so dealing with high power applications (welders, motors), potentially dangerous machinery (lathes, mills), high pressure pneumatics, and other hazards is expected. I still appreciate your comment and will suggest calling an electrician to those in charge, but it will probably just be for consultation. I wont take any unnecessary risks. The breaker will be flipped and terminals voltage tested before any work is done. Unless I manage to energize the disconnect box :no:, I feel I can manage the hazards.
the only thing with the nut is as you know may give you a problem with mounting the switch… or if you needed to remove the block you would possibly have to get to the nuts..
The safety switch box will be wall mounted. It will be something like this.
I would think the box has too thin of a wall to depend on a tap? As long as a machine screw and nut doesn't violate code or present any major problems I think it's a decent way to go. I just wanted to check the forums to make sure there wasn't a more convenient method. I'm only mounting distribution blocks for one four wire circuit, otherwise I'd probably go with a rail system.
I need to splice 10 g wire into two 10 g wires. I'd think 454 wire nuts would work, but a distribution block is a lot more robust. I'll be passing 480 V at 25 A. Wire nuts just seem flimsy.
Sure....why not? It has knockouts for conduit....so, you're going to be putting holes in it no matter what.
BTW...those are actually called disconnect boxes. Make sure you have the box sized for both HP and current. A common mistake for electricians to make is look at the max current for the box and not the max HP.
Yep, I noticed this. I almost purchased a box rated at 60 amps and 240 VAC (the box is being used for three phase at 50 amps and 240 V) until I realized it was only good for 7 hp. Thanks for the heads up.
Yea, it's more of an issue that the person in charge prefers the distribution blocks. I guess it looks cleaner. It seems he prefers to pay more as well.
If I were calling the shots I'd probably only choose to go with a distribution block if the application was mobile or there was a vibration concern.
Haha, I was thinking the same. All of the electrical work I'm doing will supply power to a small demo at my company. I'm certainly not a professional electrician nor am I paid to be one, so ElectricianTalk.com wasn't an option. This is a pretty simple installation and seems DIY enough. Obviously the community here has helped out a lot :thumbsup:.
That is not what he said in post #6, but who knows for sure ?
In some states it is illegal to perform electrical work on the electrical system in a commercial building if you are not a licensed electrician. I was assuming that he would be tapping into the building system at some point.
Sounds like your boss is trying to save a buck by risking you and your lab...
But I do believe that natural selection is a useful force and the dust will settle itself out.
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