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-   -   Bending 2" Rigid Conduit (http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/bending-2-rigid-conduit-159004/)

wewantutopia 10-04-2012 10:25 PM

Bending 2" Rigid Conduit
 
Hi Everyone,

Not sure if you remember what I'm doing, but I'm redoing my electric, from the weatherhead to the panel.

I've had everything I've done so far approved by the city building (electric) inspector and the ComEd (my power company) approval person. Panel and meter base is in and I'm ready to do the service entrance conduit.

Here is the layout of where it will go (meter is in the bottom right now)

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-t...520CONDUIT.JPG


My question has to do with the bends. I'll either have some one with a bender do it for me or try and rent one (from somewhere??).

Will I be able to do both bends on a single 10' conduit? Here is the dimensions. I guess I don't know what the radius of the bends are.
(The long run is 8 feet and half an inch.)


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g...520CONDUIT.png

While I'm here, I'll also ask, how would you do the end of this run where the weather head will connect? Would you attach a 90 degree elbow so it sticks out perpendicular to the wall? Seems like it would stick out quite a bit. An LB with a nipple and weatherhead? Any ideas would be great!

Thanks for your help!!

andrew79 10-04-2012 11:04 PM

What size conduit. Not possible on 1 1/4 and larger to get two bends and 8 feet straight.

wewantutopia 10-04-2012 11:25 PM

2" conduit. I'm not sure if the schematic describes it properly or not but the 8' 1/2" would include half of each bend if that makes sense.

ddawg16 10-05-2012 12:17 AM

A couple of different ways to do it....

First off....you're going to need couplings...so...accept the fact and embrace it...

Second....if you don't have an hydraulic bender...you will need to use prebuilt sweeps....

Option #1....rent a hydraulic pipe bender.

Option #2.....Find a differnt way to run it...Any reason you can't use PVC?

Option #3......Move the panel over a bit....then you can do a 90 straight down to the meter....

Just so we understand the overall scope.....are you trying to reduce the visibility of the pipe?

k_buz 10-05-2012 04:49 AM

Why 2" rigid?

Be careful with the distance your head is from openable windows. In WI we are required to keep the head and drip loop at least 3' away.

You are going to want siding (or whatever you are putting on the outside) up before you put the service on the side of the house.

Gac66610 10-05-2012 05:41 AM

I agree with others, why 2" rigid?

Irregardless of what you use, find a muffler shop, they should be able to bend any size metal pipe you need.

Edit: for a small fee, of course, but should be less than renting a bender.

Fairview 10-05-2012 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gac66610 (Post 1024149)
I agree with others, why 2" rigid?

Irregardless of what you use, find a muffler shop, they should be able to bend any size metal pipe you need.

Edit: for a small fee, of course, but should be less than renting a bender.

And the muffler shop can weld it for a one piece application. Getting it home is another matter. :eek:

electures 10-05-2012 06:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gac66610 (Post 1024149)
I agree with others, why 2" rigid?

Irregardless of what you use, find a muffler shop, they should be able to bend any size metal pipe you need.

Edit: for a small fee, of course, but should be less than renting a bender.

The benders used by muffler shops use a tighter radius and won't comply the NEC.

electures 10-05-2012 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fairview (Post 1024161)
And the muffler shop can weld it for a one piece application. Getting it home is another matter. :eek:

Nope. All connections shall be done with an approved, listed and labeled means.

electures 10-05-2012 06:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wewantutopia (Post 1024061)
Hi Everyone,

Not sure if you remember what I'm doing, but I'm redoing my electric, from the weatherhead to the panel.

I've had everything I've done so far approved by the city building (electric) inspector and the ComEd (my power company) approval person. Panel and meter base is in and I'm ready to do the service entrance conduit.

Here is the layout of where it will go (meter is in the bottom right now)

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-t...520CONDUIT.JPG


My question has to do with the bends. I'll either have some one with a bender do it for me or try and rent one (from somewhere??).

Will I be able to do both bends on a single 10' conduit? Here is the dimensions. I guess I don't know what the radius of the bends are.
(The long run is 8 feet and half an inch.)


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g...520CONDUIT.png

While I'm here, I'll also ask, how would you do the end of this run where the weather head will connect? Would you attach a 90 degree elbow so it sticks out perpendicular to the wall? Seems like it would stick out quite a bit. An LB with a nipple and weatherhead? Any ideas would be great!

Thanks for your help!!

WHy not use PVC conduit? Hacksaw and a can of glue.

wewantutopia 10-05-2012 07:30 AM

Wow, thanks for all the replies!

1st: This is an old picture. The polyiso is finished and the side is covered with vinyl now.

2nd: The meter base and panel are already installed; nothing is being moved.

3rd: Rigid is required per inspector. 200 amp, 3 @ 3/0 copper.

4th: ComEd (the power company) already came out and OKed all the locations etc.

5th: It's being run like this partly for location of the meter base relative to the breaker panel and partly to help hide the conduit (at least make it not so noticeable).

So it'll have to be done in 2 pieces huh? Bummer. What is the bending radius of the hydraulic bender for 2"?

jbfan 10-05-2012 07:56 AM

Why 3/0 wire, when all that is required for a 200 amp service is 2/0?

wewantutopia 10-05-2012 08:00 AM

Future proofing. We plan on a PV array in the future. Also, possible sub panel to the garage for electric vehicle charging (in the future). Or who knows what the future will bring with the ever increasing electronic world.

If I'm doing it, I'm going to do it in a manner that requires no rework in my lifetime.

Inspector requires the rigid, I'm electing to use the 3/0 (not required by the inspector but a suggestion).

jbfan 10-05-2012 08:17 AM

As long as you understand its not required to be 3/0.

andrew79 10-05-2012 10:13 AM

Well radius depends. Your only bending 45's so you would have to go center of bend for your measurement. I believe the takeup on a 2" 90 is 15 5/8. You could do the calculations but it would be much easier to do your first bend and lay it on the ground and get a measurement on the where the second bend falls on the next piece of pipe. Personally I would just rent a threader and buy two prefab 45's then cut and thread my straight lengths to suit. Way easier and probably cheaper. Not many folks have hydraulic rigid benders laying around. Up here you can find things like benders and threaders at a place called Stephenson rentals but I'm not sure they are in the states.


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