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-   -   Baseboard heaters ignoring thermostat (http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/baseboard-heaters-ignoring-thermostat-50358/)

marcus_1111 08-06-2009 09:09 AM

Baseboard heaters ignoring thermostat
 
Hi All
I'm refinishing my basement and I installed two 6' Marley Farenheat 2500 Series Electric Baseboard Heaters. I'm trying to control them with a Honeywell RLV430 tstat which is rated for 220v. The tstat only has two black wires on the back. As instructed by Honeywell, I've connected the black from the feed to one of those wires, and the black from the line out to the other. I've wire-capped the white. I'm using 12/3 so there's a red in there too that I'm not using. I've connected the heaters as shown in the instructions. When I throw the 2-pole breaker, they both come on and stay on at full tilt. Unfortunately, this tstat has no "off" mode, you can only turn the heat way down which I did. I gave it time but both heaters continued to blast. Please help.

jerryh3 08-06-2009 09:14 AM

Can you take a picture of the thermostat connections?

marcus_1111 08-06-2009 09:32 AM

Pic of tstat connection
 
1 Attachment(s)
Here you go. As you can see, the blacks are attached to the tstat and the whites are wire-nutted together. The reds are not hooked up so they're just taped off. The ground is hooked up back there too.

jerryh3 08-06-2009 09:53 AM

Looks right. Are you sure there isn't a manual override mode that is coming on? If you had a meter you could test the load connection to see if the thermostat is actually breaking the connection when the call for heat is satisfied.

marcus_1111 08-06-2009 10:05 AM

I've programmed the tstat fully to be 40 degrees in every mode, both auto and manual, and for every time period that was pre-programmed. I do have a meter, but I'm not very good w/ it. Where should I take a reading and on what setting?

mpoulton 08-06-2009 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marcus_1111 (Post 311180)
Here you go. As you can see, the blacks are attached to the tstat and the whites are wire-nutted together. The reds are not hooked up so they're just taped off. The ground is hooked up back there too.

This looks like it should work, but I notice something unusual. This is a 240V circuit, and typically you would use only the black and red wires, not white, in that configuration. Alternatively, you could have run 12-2 and re-identified the white as red, using it for the other hot (this is what most electricians would do for this type of installation). What did you do in the panel? Is there any chance those two red wires are actually connected to each other in the box, and are actually hot? If so, that might explain things depending on how the rest of the circuit is wired.

Also, what is the total connected load here? Is it more than the rated 14.6A? If it is way more than that, the relay contacts may have welded closed the first time it turned on.

HouseHelper 08-06-2009 11:48 AM

How is your 12/3 connected at the panel and at the heaters?

joed 08-06-2009 11:49 AM

What colour wires are attached to the breaker? What colour wires are connected at the heater? Are those two reds connected together or just taped up? They should have nuts on them not just tape, even if not used.

marcus_1111 08-06-2009 11:49 AM

Thanks everyone
 
Hi all.
after taking various people's advice and an hour long call w/ Honeywell, I've tracked it down to a faulty tstat. I just exchanged it at HD and it works fine.
Thanks again.

jerryh3 08-06-2009 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marcus_1111 (Post 311215)
Hi all.
after taking various people's advice and an hour long call w/ Honeywell, I've tracked it down to a faulty tstat. I just exchanged it at HD and it works fine.
Thanks again.

Good deal. Make sure you reidentify all of those white wire as hot in all of the boxes and panel. Better yet, use the red wire instead of the white and cap the whites.


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