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Old 01-20-2009, 10:10 PM   #31
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Automatic Closet Lights


Quote:
Originally Posted by chris75 View Post
Hope I didnt sound cruel...

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Old 01-21-2009, 11:43 AM   #32
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Thanks everyone for the continued discussion in this thread and answering my simple questions. So when a circuit is closed it allows electricity to pass through it, in the case of this closet transformer switch, closed (when away from the magnet) gives me 6v back to the transformer which in turn gives me 110 to the light bulb, and open when the switch is near the magnet gives me nothing. Perfect.

Now, is Normally closed the same as Closed Loop when I'm reading product descriptions say for instance here.... http://www.grisk.com/parts.htm

I'm trying to find the best low voltage magnetic switch, I am concerned with the maximum gap that I can have between the two magnets. It would appear I only need a 2 lead one to go with the above mentioned transformer.
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Old 01-21-2009, 06:54 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harleysilo View Post
................ I only need a 2 lead one to go with the above mentioned transformer.
Harley, which transformer?
Do you mean the Remcon RC-120S?
Do you have one and are trying to make it work with a magnetic switch?

If so, I share your open loop/closed loop confusion. I think it refers to how it is configured in a security loop e.g. Star system vs Daisey chain. I may be completely off base on this.

When you get it to work, Please post the results

If you don't have the Remcon remote switch, here is the Manual:
ampR115S,RC120S_om_6-94.pdf (application/pdf Object)

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Old 01-22-2009, 10:35 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaliBob View Post
Harley, which transformer?
Do you mean the Remcon RC-120S?
Do you have one and are trying to make it work with a magnetic switch?

If so, I share your open loop/closed loop confusion. I think it refers to how it is configured in a security loop e.g. Star system vs Daisey chain. I may be completely off base on this.

When you get it to work, Please post the results

If you don't have the Remcon remote switch, here is the Manual:
ampR115S,RC120S_om_6-94.pdf (application/pdf Object)

.
I don't have one. I'm going to order the RC120S to use on a single light, with only one sensor. I need to buy the sensor and just want to make sure I get the right one.
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Old 01-22-2009, 04:56 PM   #35
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I think I finally got this security system thing figured out with the open Loop/ closed loop thing.
Closed loop switches are N.O.
Open loop switches are N.C.

Open Loop switches in a door circuit are OPEN when the door is CLOSED because the magnet is holding the switch contacts OPEN.

Open Loop switches in a door circuit are CLOSED when the door is OPEN because the magnet is not close to the switch contacts so the contacts are back to N.C.

Where to buy one
1) MFG (GRI sells by minimum of 10)
2) local Distributer
3) local security installer (Open Loop switches are NOT common)
4) Net (SafeMart.com will sell by small quantities.
.................SafeMart

Note the 3030-12 are NOT on their page but are available
on the phone listed under Need Help? at the top of the page.

The cost I was quoted on 1/22/09 was $3.49 + $5.99 S&H

for ref here is the GRI data sheet
GRI 3/8 dia mag-switches_pdf

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Old 01-23-2009, 02:06 AM   #36
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Thanks to Stubbie for first posting the RC-120S Remote Switch and to chris75 for the part number for the N.C. magnetic reed switch. This has for me really cleared up the mystery of open loop/Closed loop vs N.O./N.C.

Anyway Stubbie, Chris75, and other contributors, Tell me if I've made any Boo Boo's.
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Old 01-23-2009, 10:46 AM   #37
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Thanks for posting all that Pali Bob, I'll be doing that exact thing in this new pantry....

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Old 01-23-2009, 11:45 AM   #38
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Harley,
Good Pic. I see why you want to get rid of the pull cord.
Let us know how you do the new switch.

If You need a el cheapo Bell Hangers drill:
HF-BellHanger1

HF also has larger sizes.
5/16, 3/8, & 7/16 for $6.99
HF-BellHanger2

and then for the big bucks
1/2, 9/16, & 5/8 for $9.99
HF-BellHanger3

The body of the magnetic switch is 3/8 but the lead wires should fit through a 1/4" hole easily.

Before you drill any holes. Try some practice holes on a piece of scrap 2x4 to be sure the holes are the right size for the switch and the leads.
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Old 05-11-2009, 09:42 PM   #39
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Ok, this Remcon relay switch sounds really great. Is there any way it can be implemented fairly easily in existing construction. I would like to use this method in two first floor closets. Unfortunately there is a second floor so drilling up into attic is not possible and drilling through door jambs is not possible either since drywall, trim, etc is in place in the closets and hallways they are off of. There is a bathroom between the two closets that is currently gutted so there is access to one sidewall in each closet. though.

I was going to put in a jbox at around 6' high and run a narrow 6' flourescent light vertically down the side for better illumination of shelves, etc. The only thing not figured out was the switch type, but maybe something like the Remcon relay switch with surface mount magnets will work since the closet is already finished and trimmed out.

Any ideas? Thanks
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Old 05-12-2009, 01:23 PM   #40
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Quote:
I think a jamb switch would be better for the money.
Are you kidding me?

A motion fixture is by far the best bet. Jamb switches are a pain to install even in new construction.

Edit:

Crap....someone revived an old post. I hate when that happens.

Last edited by 220/221; 05-12-2009 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 05-12-2009, 02:37 PM   #41
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sorry
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Old 09-20-2010, 03:34 PM   #42
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Automatic Closet Lights


Hi Everyone:

I just completed this project at home in my bifold closet doors and it went off without a hitch. I order the magnetic switches from Smarthome via Amazon and the only pointer I have is that the switch DEFINITELY cares which wire is connected to which terminal on the switch, which is not easy to tell since there is no documentation with the switch. The first time I wired it the switch wasn't effective, switching the wires solved the problem. Also, you can purchase the wire needed pretty readily at HD, etc. as thermostat wire.

Thanks,
Cap'n

Last edited by CaptChaos; 09-20-2010 at 03:44 PM.
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Old 01-19-2012, 02:24 PM   #43
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I have a similar problem. In this case I want to put a light in a pantry that had no light in it before. I want to mount the light over the door, shining into the pantry, so to put as much light from the forward side as possible. I've been unable to find a motion detector fixture that has more than 180 degree coverage. Indeed, I've only found one motion detector fixture at all, and it's designed for ceiling mount.

I've followed the discussion on motion sensor and relays. I'd really want to avoid the several watt parasitic load of either a relay or a motion sensor. (We are trying to get the house off grid. Little transformers everywhere add up. ) But I also really don't want to go with these door jamb switches. Clunky. Inelegant. I'd like to find a 120V version of the Edwards 44 roller ball contact switch. Or a round version of a refrigerator door switch, with the spade lugs on the back. I don't understand why this is so hard.
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Old 01-20-2012, 08:24 PM   #44
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A bunch of companies sell an aftermarket appliance repair switch, model ES15400. It's a round switch with a lip on the front. The design is for use in sheet metal. A spring clip snaps in behind the metal as it is inserted.

The connectors on the back are standard spade lugs.

This sort of switch would be idea for doorjam use.

1. Drill a 13/16" x 1/16" deep hole to accomdate the rim.
2. Drill a 3/4" hole through the jamb to accommodate the body.
3. Feed the spade lug leads through the hole, followed by the switch.
4. Use a dab of caulk to hold the switch in place.
5. Run the other ends of the leads into a box and make your connection.

As far as I can find/figure out, this would work perfectly. And it's illegal, not to code. Why not?
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Old 01-20-2012, 08:41 PM   #45
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google better switch and see what you think. we use them and they work great.

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