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Old 12-08-2007, 11:28 AM   #16
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Automatic Closet Lights


http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&c...0S&btnG=Search


Then use any N.C. alarm contact to break the circuit when the door is closed.

I use Edwards 44 rolling ball contact switches.

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Answers based on the 2008 & 2011 NEC.
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Old 06-12-2008, 09:08 AM   #17
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Automatic Closet Lights


I found this forum and the relay is slick. Any suggestions on the magnetic switch? I need a rececessed one, not a roller ball. The problem I keep running into is that when they close the door the light comes on.

I keep asking for a Normally closed contact and I get a n-o with a closed loop, or a normally closed with an open loop.

*ACK*
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Old 06-12-2008, 05:06 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by haileysmom97 View Post
I found this forum and the relay is slick. Any suggestions on the magnetic switch? I need a rececessed one, not a roller ball. The problem I keep running into is that when they close the door the light comes on.

I keep asking for a Normally closed contact and I get a n-o with a closed loop, or a normally closed with an open loop.

*ACK*

These are the exact ones I use... grisk.com

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Old 01-20-2009, 11:02 AM   #19
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These are the exact ones I use... grisk.com

Dang, what's the part number?
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Old 01-20-2009, 12:01 PM   #20
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Here is a surface mount that might help http://www.smarthome.com/7113/Door-a...0-White/p.aspx
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Old 01-20-2009, 01:41 PM   #21
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Here is another link to Speedy's Edwards Door Jamb Switches
Door Jamb Switches

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Old 01-20-2009, 01:41 PM   #22
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I used one of these from my junkbox.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...icroswitch.jpg
No relay needed.
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Old 01-20-2009, 02:19 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Yoyizit View Post
I used one of these .........
No relay needed.
Yoyzit, These are line voltage rated. Did you use it for a closet Light?
If so please post a pic.

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Automatic Closet Lights-lever-microswitch.jpg  
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Old 01-20-2009, 03:35 PM   #24
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I'm looking to do this on my new Pantry/laundry room, bi-fold louvered doors, old pull chain lights, don't want to run 110 down the walls and no place for big switch. Don't understand all of the options here.... http://www.grisk.com/parts.htm
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Old 01-20-2009, 03:40 PM   #25
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I don't fully understand the normally closed stuff either.... this comment above is confusing to me.... "I keep asking for a Normally closed contact and I get a n-o with a closed loop, or a normally closed with an open loop. " Which is it, or is it just a Normally closed one like this.... http://www.smarthome.com/7113/Door-a...0-White/p.aspx
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Old 01-20-2009, 06:15 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by harleysilo View Post
I don't fully understand the normally closed stuff either
For these magnetic switches that are used typically for window alarms. N.C. refers to how it looks in the circuit i.e. the window is closed so the switch is closed. The Switch is closed because the matching magnet closes the switch.
When the widow is opened the magnet moves away from the switch so the switch opens.
Out of the circuit, when measuring this NC switch with an Ohmmeter, the meter will show Open until actuated by the magnet.

These are still only Low Voltage switches. Not to be used at line voltage.

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Old 01-20-2009, 07:24 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by PaliBob View Post
For these magnetic switches that are used typically for window alarms. N.C. refers to how it looks in the circuit i.e. the window is closed so the switch is closed. The Switch is closed because the matching magnet closes the switch.
When the widow is opened the magnet moves away from the switch so the switch opens.

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You got that ass backwards bud, a normally closed switch is just that normally closed, apply the magnet and it opens. Exactly why you need normally closed switches for a closet, so when you close the door the switch opens and turns off the light.
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Old 01-20-2009, 07:27 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaliBob View Post
Yoyzit, These are line voltage rated. Did you use it for a closet Light?
If so please post a pic.

.
Yeah, for a closet containing only dishes, but I have a bunch of exposed 25w bulbs vertically mounted for the lighting, so I should replace them with a flourescent one of these days.

Use the switches from earlier in this thread made for this application unless it's a lot of remodeling for you. I already had the switches and heatshrink tubing so I did what was convenient.

Clothes, or flammable material, or material that thermally insulates, stored in a closet with exposed bulbs is bad. I guess you could go with a boatload of 1w LEDs, but they are kind of directional.

When I was but a young lad, at camp I got my socks wet so I wrapped them around an incand. bulb to dry them.
Unfortunately, there was then a big commotion outside (people were swimming in the dark in water containing snapping turtles) so I forgot about my arrangement.
The whole cabin, and maybe some trees, could have burned down; the still-working lamp had lumps in the glass and my socks were literally toast.

Last edited by Yoyizit; 01-20-2009 at 07:53 PM.
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Old 01-20-2009, 08:41 PM   #29
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You got that ass backwards bud,.....
It would help if I checked for Brain in gear before I drove off the cliff.
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Old 01-20-2009, 09:34 PM   #30
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It would help if I checked for Brain in gear before I drove off the cliff.
Hope I didnt sound cruel...

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