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Old 07-13-2008, 09:30 AM   #16
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Auger or bore?


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Originally Posted by Yoyizit View Post
A wall outlet equals a battery with unlimited amp-hour capacity.
With the added bonus of dragging a cord around with you.

Granted, I use a power drill most of the time, but my battery drills are my friends on small jobs.

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Old 07-13-2008, 09:34 AM   #17
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I wish you guys were all closer. I am starting a job Monday which would give everyone a good test for their favorite drills and bits. All the plaster and lath has been removed from a 140 year old house in town. It features full size oak studs and joists. And knob and tube throughout. I bought 4 new spade bits Friday to get me started. I bet one of those bits Nap showed us might work good in this application.
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Jimmy here. One word of caution. With a house that old, the wood is definitely "old growth" unlike the comparatively virgin SPF studs being used today. That being said, I can tell you from experience with my house that the framing is hard as nails on spades. I've been paying some attention as I've been remodeling and it seems that the spades dull faster than the augers that I have. On the other hand (and I learned this from "Nahm") it's pretty easy to sharpen a spade bit. I'd pack a square or triangle-profile fine file in your bag of tricks just to be safe. And have fun installing boxes on that stuff. If any of it will be screwed down, plan on piloting or you'll cam out screws left and right (even with you and your entire crew all pushing into the drill motor as you go!). Sometimes, I can still hear my house laughing at me...
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Old 07-13-2008, 10:08 AM   #18
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Amen.
I've heard of electrical problems on this forum that seem to violate Ohm's law.
I'm dying to see some of these problems in person, with all my test gear, booklearning, and experience.
You don't learn much when everything works the first time, and since adversity defines us I can always use more definition.
:-)
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Old 07-13-2008, 10:14 AM   #19
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Auger or bore?


Jimmy, I've done quite a few of these old oak wood houses and they are like drilling petrified wood. Another fun thing is predrilling the holes for the nail up boxes. I learned to use bracket type boxes that I can install with drywall screws. Those work ok in the oak. My spade bits are around $2 each so I just toss them. I could send them down to you for sharpening if you like.
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Old 07-13-2008, 11:16 AM   #20
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Auger or bore?


with oak studs, I would strongly suggest a corded drill. They will be hard and will work the daylights out of a cordless drill.

and to sharpening; those Irwin bits I showed; the same file used to sharpen the paddles will work just fine on those as well. What they are are actually 3 flute paddles with a mild twist to the flutes to aid in ejecting the cuttings and a lead screw to make them self feeding. Best of both worlds.
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Old 07-13-2008, 11:20 AM   #21
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with oak studs, I would strongly suggest a corded drill.
Perhaps but I think that this is more a function of how good your battery-powered screw-bar is. I've run my 18V Dewalt all day long on a single XRP pack with no loss of power/enjoyment.
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Old 07-13-2008, 11:36 AM   #22
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Perhaps but I think that this is more a function of how good your battery-powered screw-bar is. I've run my 18V Dewalt all day long on a single XRP pack with no loss of power/enjoyment.
I prefer not to load my cordless up that much for that long. Drilling oak with a screw lead bit loads them prettty hard. If there is AC power around, I simply prefer to save the battery for times of less duration but, personal preference is not a matter of who is right. I it is simply a matter of what is right for you.
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Old 07-13-2008, 02:28 PM   #23
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I prefer not to load my cordless up that much for that long. Drilling oak with a screw lead bit loads them prettty hard. If there is AC power around, I simply prefer to save the battery for times of less duration but, personal preference is not a matter of who is right. I it is simply a matter of what is right for you.
Nah, no argument here. If I used a plug in screw bar all day, I'd wind up getting tangled up in the cord and probably pee myself before my wife came to my rescue (or worse, the cord would knock over my coffee!).

Oh yeah, and as an FYI, I always pilot the screw holes when working with old growth lumber, be it oak, pine or whatever have you. Some will argue that this takes too much time but I've busted enough screw heads off to know that it actually saves me time and hassle. Alas, taking more time doesn't cut into my margin-it just pisses off my wife more (not unlike me typing away while in the middle of a project)!
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Old 07-13-2008, 03:04 PM   #24
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When I use an auger bit, the drill is on #1 speed, the paddle bits i use #3 speed. Just wish I could get the help to grasp this concept. Same with screws. Tek screw=high speed, wood screw=low speed.
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Old 07-14-2008, 08:31 AM   #25
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with oak studs, I would strongly suggest a corded drill. They will be hard and will work the daylights out of a cordless drill.
If you ever saw me drill holes in studs you would quickly figure out a cordless drill would never do it. I don't get saw dust, I get kindling wood out of the holes. Time is money when I rope a house. If I could use shaped charges to make the holes I would. I like my cordless for some jobs but drilling studs and joists, pine or oak, is not one of them. If the service is not in, I use a generator for power.

Those bits you showed look interesting. Can you buy them individually? I won't buy sets of bits where I use one and the others lay around to rust. Regular auger bits are way to slow, but those you showed might work. The look short enough for 2x? work too.
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Old 07-14-2008, 08:41 AM   #26
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John, the Speedbore bits are available individually, I have already run though several of the 7/8" ones. Last one broke off at the shaft while trying to drill through a bottom plate in an old house using the Hole Hawg. I would not advise using them in old hard wood... use an auger bit instead, aided by a little lubricant when drilling the oak.
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Old 07-14-2008, 09:04 AM   #27
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OK great. I will look for those bits. But I'll stick with the spades in the oak. I've done a dozen of these old houses and they work pretty well until they get dull. And they are in the price I quote. I use mostly 3/4.
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Old 07-14-2008, 09:11 AM   #28
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John, the Speedbore bits are available individually, I have already run though several of the 7/8" ones. Last one broke off at the shaft while trying to drill through a bottom plate in an old house using the Hole Hawg. I would not advise using them in old hard wood... use an auger bit instead, aided by a little lubricant when drilling the oak.
What sore to lubricant do you use?

I have been using flat spade bits. The house is 80 years old, but the wood is not oak.
I have been successful getting through the top and bottom plates, but it takes a while, as I periodically stop the drill to let it cool off. Also, we have double thick plates.

I would like to try an auger though. I think I'll buy a 1/2". I can still get one piece of 12/2 NMB through that size. Just have to drill an extra hole here and there where I need more cables.

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Old 07-14-2008, 09:31 AM   #29
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What sore to lubricant do you use?
Either Wd40 or silicone.

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I would like to try an auger though. I think I'll buy a 1/2". I can still get one piece of 12/2 NMB through that size. Just have to drill an extra hole here and there where I need more cables.
I like the 7/8 'cause you can fit four 12/2 with no problem and it's the correct size for running 1/2" PVC when you need it.
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Old 07-14-2008, 03:11 PM   #30
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Auger or bore?


I ended up buying the 3/4" Irwin "Speedbor" paddle bit. Reasons being that an auger bit that would fit my drill would have required an extension, and I couldn't find any extension that would fit the auger bit.
They had only the Quick change chuck, which was also labeled "speedbor", but that would not fit the auger bit. The auger bits had a larger shaft, that was not quick-change.
I was not sure even the standard auger bit woudl have fit my 3/8" drill, although I believe the shaft was not larger than 3/8".
The longer auger bit was $23, and would not have fit my drill, as it's shaft was probably 1/2".

The 16" long 3/4" paddle bit was about $10. For the work I have to do, it will be fine.
If I really had a lot of holes to drill, I think I would invest in a better drill, and the auger bits.

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