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Auger or bore?

6K views 42 replies 11 participants last post by  BigJimmy 
#1 ·
Hi;
I have been using mainly wood boring bits for holes from 1/2 to 3/4".
Would an auger bit be faster than the flat wood bore?

Thanks

FW
 
#3 ·
Unfortunately, all I have is an old Craftsman 3/8" hand held corded drill.
It works, but isn't powerful enough for tough jobs, so it takes me a very long time to finish such jobs.
I am just a DIY'er, not an electrician, so what work I do is bits and pieces.
It would be nice to have a "real" drill, but currently my budget cannot afford it.

I had been using a long-shaft 3/4" flat bore, but I dulled it when I hit brick while drilling up from a crawl space.
I like the long shaft bits rather than using an extension, because the set screws in the extension are always loosening up.
Yesterday, I ruined my old foot long 1/4" extension when I tried to tighten the set screw and the head stripped out. Now I have to drill it out to remove the bit that is stuck in the thing.

I also found that most of the newer wood boring bits (flat) will not fit my 1/4" extension due to the "knob" at the end of the shaft. As I am sure you know, these bits are intended for quick release chucks, that's why they have the extra nub at the end.
I should probably purchase a quick-release chuck adapter. I believe I can get one at HD for a few bucks.

FW
 
#8 ·
auger bits require less torque from your drill than flat, paddle-drill bits, so you should get more drill motor life with augers.
I have to disagree with that statement. I have several larger auger bits, all above 3/4". Nothing but my powerful 10 amp 1/2" drill has enough power for them. I can bore up to 1-1/2" with a woodboring spade bit and a 3/8" electric drill.
 
#9 ·
I have to disagree

Assuming your 3/8" drill delivers less torque than your 1/2" due to gearing and motor size, these results puzzle me.

The drill motor owner's manual usually says something about the maximum drill bit dia. recommended, and I wonder if this contradicts their recommendations.

I haven't measured the current demanded by a drill using different bits, but one bit screws into the wood [like it's always cutting with the grain] and the other scrapes away the whole circle [across the grain].
Seems like this second option takes more work because more wood is pulverized, rather than a long, curly "chip" being created.

I guess the other factor is how deep/how fast does each drill bit go and that should depend on motor hp and the torque delivered.

???
 
#10 ·
I agree with junk collector, I can use my cordless drill in hi speed with the paddle bit. but have to get in low gear for the auger bits. I think this is because the augers feed screw is pulling the cutter in keeping up feed pressure where as you can vary the pressure on a paddle bit according to the woods hardness.
 
#11 ·
Very interesting, and helpful. Thanks guys.
I'll take a look at my local HD on Monday.
I will need a bit with at least a 1 foot shaft though. This might require me to replace my old extension.

I would be willing to spend a bit more $$ if it will make the job easier. I have several holes to drill.

FW
 
#14 ·
I wish you guys were all closer. I am starting a job Monday which would give everyone a good test for their favorite drills and bits. All the plaster and lath has been removed from a 140 year old house in town. It features full size oak studs and joists. And knob and tube throughout. I bought 4 new spade bits Friday to get me started. I bet one of those bits Nap showed us might work good in this application.
 
#18 ·
you guys were all closer

Amen.
I've heard of electrical problems on this forum that seem to violate Ohm's law.
I'm dying to see some of these problems in person, with all my test gear, booklearning, and experience.
You don't learn much when everything works the first time, and since adversity defines us I can always use more definition.
:)
 
#19 ·
Jimmy, I've done quite a few of these old oak wood houses and they are like drilling petrified wood. Another fun thing is predrilling the holes for the nail up boxes. I learned to use bracket type boxes that I can install with drywall screws. Those work ok in the oak. My spade bits are around $2 each so I just toss them. I could send them down to you for sharpening if you like. :laughing:
 
#20 ·
with oak studs, I would strongly suggest a corded drill. They will be hard and will work the daylights out of a cordless drill.

and to sharpening; those Irwin bits I showed; the same file used to sharpen the paddles will work just fine on those as well. What they are are actually 3 flute paddles with a mild twist to the flutes to aid in ejecting the cuttings and a lead screw to make them self feeding. Best of both worlds.
 
#26 ·
John, the Speedbore bits are available individually, I have already run though several of the 7/8" ones. Last one broke off at the shaft while trying to drill through a bottom plate in an old house using the Hole Hawg. I would not advise using them in old hard wood... use an auger bit instead, aided by a little lubricant when drilling the oak.
 
#28 ·
What sore to lubricant do you use?

I have been using flat spade bits. The house is 80 years old, but the wood is not oak.
I have been successful getting through the top and bottom plates, but it takes a while, as I periodically stop the drill to let it cool off. Also, we have double thick plates.

I would like to try an auger though. I think I'll buy a 1/2". I can still get one piece of 12/2 NMB through that size. Just have to drill an extra hole here and there where I need more cables.

FW
 
#30 ·
I ended up buying the 3/4" Irwin "Speedbor" paddle bit. Reasons being that an auger bit that would fit my drill would have required an extension, and I couldn't find any extension that would fit the auger bit.
They had only the Quick change chuck, which was also labeled "speedbor", but that would not fit the auger bit. The auger bits had a larger shaft, that was not quick-change.
I was not sure even the standard auger bit woudl have fit my 3/8" drill, although I believe the shaft was not larger than 3/8".
The longer auger bit was $23, and would not have fit my drill, as it's shaft was probably 1/2".

The 16" long 3/4" paddle bit was about $10. For the work I have to do, it will be fine.
If I really had a lot of holes to drill, I think I would invest in a better drill, and the auger bits.

FW
 
#35 ·
When you spray WD40 on the bit, do you ever get smoke when the bit gets hot?
Yes, but adding the WD40 before you start keeps things cool

Funny how you guys hate being called DIY'ers, but this is a DIY forum, isn't it <g>:)
This is a DIY forum, but in case you haven't noticed, there are many professionals here that answer the DIY questions.
 
#39 ·
Thanks for the WD40 suggestion. Sorry about my 'poke' at being called a DIY'er. I intended that to be a humerous comment:jester:

Funny thing happened today:
I drilled one 3/4" hole through the wall header on the 2nd flr, and I got through in a few seconds, using the flat "speedbor" I bought yesterday.
Sure, I had started the hole with a 1/2"bit a few days ago, but I didn't get very far with it.
I'm wondering why it took so long to get through in the same wall space with the same model drill bit several months ago, and today it was so quick.
Perhaps my bit was VERY dull?
It hadn't been used all that much, but I had run it against some plaster in the wall several times. Still felt sharp to me though.

FW
 
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