Arcade machine power supply

runcmd3

hello. i have a power supply for an arcade game and it broke. it has a 9 pin adaptor and a 3 pin adaptor. i am going to try to buy a computer power supply and modify it to work.
it says the following for input and output:
INPUT: 110/220 VAC
OUTPUT:
+5v dc
+12v dc
-5v dc

it says the following about the connectors:

9 pin connector:
pin 1-3 = +5v (RED)
pin 4-6 = GROUND (BLACK)
pin 7 = -5v (WHITE)
pin 8 = +12v (YELLOW)
pin 9 = not used

3 pin connector:
pin 1 = AC Line
pin 2 = Ground
pin 3 = AC NEUTRAL

Now i am assuming that the 3 pin connector goes to the tv part that would just use normal connectors while the 9 pin connector goes to all of the electronic components inside the machine.
my question for you guys is do you think this will even work? and..
does anyone recognize what the 9 pin adaptor is for or even called?
also.. is there any power supply you could find for me for cheap that has those outputs? maybe a small one because this thing is old and its only 150 watts.
Thanks

InPhase277

It will work, but you will have to find the -5 V and switch wires on the big main ATX connector of the computer power supply. It may come with a schematic, but if not there are plenty available on the internet. The yellow and black on the general connectors are +12 V and the red and black are +5 V. The 3-pin just supplies 120 V, so you will need to splice that into the supply power.

A computer power supply is very cheap and likely your best solution. All will deliver more than enough power for your needs.

runcmd3

where can i find the -5v dc?
EDIT:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817255015
will that one work?
+3.3V@17A, +5V@12A, +12V@13A, -12V@0.3A, -5V@0.3A +5VSB@2.0A

it says the wrong Amps too. do i have to worry about that?
the output on the stock psu is 15A for +5 5.5A for +12 and .5A for -5

chris75

I buy all my arcade supplies from here http://www.happcontrols.com/amusemen.../gameparts.htm but a PC power supply should work fine for you.

joed

You need an old AT power supply. The old ones that actually had a switch to turn them on.
Here is the pinout. Don't forget to check the amps as well for each supply That is just as important as the volts. Higher amps than the original is OK. Lower is not.

http://pinouts.ru/Power/MotherboardPower_pinout.shtml

runcmd3

then will this work?
http://www.happcontrols.com/powersupplies/80000210.htm

it is:
+5v 20A, +12v 8A, -5v .5A, -12 .5A
when what i need is:
+5v 15A, +12v 5.5, -5v .5A

or even better but more expensive:
http://www.happcontrols.com/powersupplies/80007200.htm
+5V 15A, +12V 5.5A, -5V 1A

even better for only 29 dollars:
+5V 15A, +12V 5.5A, -5V 1A
http://www.happcontrols.com/powersupplies/80001500.htm

rgsgww

You can use an atx, short pin 14 (green, ps-on) to a ground. Can do this with a SPST switch.

But you found at psus...so don't bother...

runcmd3

ok so i'm either going to go with this:
+5v 15A, +12v 5.5A, -5v 1A
http://www.happcontrols.com/powersupplies/80001500.htm
$28.95

or this:
+3.3V@20A, +5V@30A, +12V@15A,
-5V@0.5A, -12V@1A, +5VSB@2A
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817104118
$16.99

i would have to modify the second one. which do you think is better for meeting +5v 15A, +12v 5.5A, -5v .5A? is it worth the ten dollars to modify the thing?

Gigs

Why would you have to modify the second one? If you just mean jumping the power on wire, it's not a big deal.

Anyway I wouldn't get a $16 ATX power supply, especially not to hide away in a wooden cabinet. It'll be total crap and could even be a fire hazard. A lot of the very cheap ATX supplies are not UL or RU listed, and they do often fail in spectacular ways.

runcmd3

ok gigs you convinced me to get the first one. and it would have to be modified because i have a 9 pin connector. the first one comes with the 9 pin. second one is made for modern computers so it wont have it.
and as for the second one............ Approvals UL, TUV, CB & CE

rgsgww

Gigs...check out these failed psu and capacitor pics...looks like some bad damage...

http://capsmod.net/forum/viewthread....extra=page%3D1

Anyways, I've read, and had bad experience with junk psus...even ul listed.

*Which reminds me, you should inspect the capacitors in your machine for "warping" like in these pics...a bad cap can kill a lot of components.

Gigs

There is a lot of UL fraud with cheap computer power supplies. Sometimes customs will stop it for trademark infringement once UL catches it, but a lot still get through.