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Old 07-16-2012, 10:49 PM   #31
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Appliance - 220 v or 120 v is it ???


What I meant by plate was that the unit probably has a direct connect somewhere for the wire to go to. Most likely there's a cover plate on the unit here to allow space for connections. On the back of that plate there may be a wiring diagram to show you how to wire the unit for different voltages.

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Old 07-16-2012, 10:52 PM   #32
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Appliance - 220 v or 120 v is it ???


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Originally Posted by STEVEIEB
Ok >>>>>>>>>>> I want 2 do this right ........( no duct tape ) lol......so I'll contact the mfgr. to see if I need to reconfigure the machine inside for handling single phase 220 V . then as stated erlier use the 3 wire method on a 50 amp dedicated circuit ..................
sound right ?
wow >>>>>>am I reading this right ? the nameplate on the unit states it is a 12 kW unit and does this installation instruction show if if it's 12 kW then it going to have to be wired 3 phase ? (see nameplate pic and install instructions )
http://www.mfii.com/images/pdf/Steri...5Bh2115%5D.pdf

*AMP/PHASE
MODEL kW Hz
Single Phase Three Phase
208V 240V 208V 240V
STM-E(L) 9 60 45A 52A - -
STM-E(L) 12 60 - - 26A 30A


The part here about the 3 phase wasn't there when I replied to you. I was saying yes to the 3wire plus ground 50a circuit.
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Old 07-16-2012, 11:31 PM   #33
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Appliance - 220 v or 120 v is it ???


I am not sure how this come up but with single phase I am pretty sure you may have two heating elements which total rating is 9 KW then add a three phase supply then there is a third element that can be engerized then the KW rating go up to 12 KW.

Really I think it will be wiser to have a electrician to assit you on this one due you mention pole building which I am pretty sure you will have run this in conduit.

Merci,
Marc
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Old 07-17-2012, 06:01 AM   #34
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Appliance - 220 v or 120 v is it ???


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Originally Posted by andrew79 View Post
The heater will work. Just half as hot. Although it probably won't even turn on without a 120 control circuit and that means a neutral. We're in the business of telling people the right way to do things not the duct tape method.
You need to brush up on Ohm's Law. A heating element rated for connection to a 240 Volt source will have an output of of its rating when connected to a 120 Volt source.

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I am not sure how this come up but with single phase I am pretty sure you may have two heating elements which total rating is 9 KW then add a three phase supply then there is a third element that can be engerized then the KW rating go up to 12 KW....
Should have read the manual. It shows 3 sets of elements, which can be configured for full output connected to a single phase or 3 phase source.

If connected to a single phase source, then all 3 elements are connected to the same legs. If fed from a 3 phase source, then they are equally spread out over the 3 different phases. Amps per leg shows 52 connected to single phase, and 30 connected to 3 phase....

Looking again at the diagram in the manual, it appears that an internal control transformer provides the 120 Volt power needed for operation, and no neutral connection is required.

Neutral connections are only shown on their export models.
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Old 07-17-2012, 06:13 AM   #35
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Appliance - 220 v or 120 v is it ???


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Originally Posted by kbsparky View Post
You need to brush up on Ohm's Law. A heating element rated for connection to a 240 Volt source will have an output of of its rating when connected to a 120 Volt source.



Should have read the manual. It shows 3 sets of elements, which can be configured for full output connected to a single phase or 3 phase source.

If connected to a single phase source, then all 3 elements are connected to the same legs. If fed from a 3 phase source, then they are equally spread out over the 3 different phases. Amps per leg shows 52 connected to single phase, and 30 connected to 3 phase....

Looking again at the diagram in the manual, it appears that an internal control transformer provides the 120 Volt power needed for operation, and no neutral connection is required.

Neutral connections are only shown on their export models.
I will be using the 240 V option>>>>>>>>>> not 120 V for sure
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Old 07-17-2012, 12:20 PM   #36
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Appliance - 220 v or 120 v is it ???


Quote:
Originally Posted by kbsparky View Post
You need to brush up on Ohm's Law. A heating element rated for connection to a 240 Volt source will have an output of of its rating when connected to a 120 Volt source.



Should have read the manual. It shows 3 sets of elements, which can be configured for full output connected to a single phase or 3 phase source.

If connected to a single phase source, then all 3 elements are connected to the same legs. If fed from a 3 phase source, then they are equally spread out over the 3 different phases. Amps per leg shows 52 connected to single phase, and 30 connected to 3 phase....

Looking again at the diagram in the manual, it appears that an internal control transformer provides the 120 Volt power needed for operation, and no neutral connection is required.

Neutral connections are only shown on their export models.
KB.,

Thanks for finding that link no wonder I did miss that one tsk tsk shame on moi.,,

To OP.,

Just wired up as monophase as you will see the wiring diagram and yeah there is interal transfomer for control plus a electrique valve there.

You will not need the netural at all but if you want to bring it that fine otherwise two hot conductors plus earth ( ground ) conductor is the main item you will need to bring it out.

Merci,
Marc
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Old 07-17-2012, 02:08 PM   #37
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Appliance - 220 v or 120 v is it ???


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Neutral connections are only shown on their export models.
We needed a neutral for ours. It was probably only for the water-cooled condenser option. I recall that the electrician did not get it right the first time and we ended up with a second circuit and a second disconnect to power that part. You can probably disregard if you don't have that option.

Do you have a sizable electrical service to your pole barn? I hope so. This is significant power.

I looked up the information on the replacement safety valve that I installed. The OE 17# valve is just too close to the 15.5 PSI upper operating pressure and bleeds off steam in the normal fluctuations in pressure associated with the normal operation of the pressure switch. I installed a Kunkle steam pressure release valve, 20 psi, 200 #/hr.

I see they have revised the water supply information in response to questions from people like me. If you use hard water, you will be doing a lot of maintenance. I mixed tap water of known mineral content with distilled to get to their minimum (0.25 GPG).
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Old 07-17-2012, 03:14 PM   #38
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Appliance - 220 v or 120 v is it ???


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We needed a neutral for ours. It was probably only for the water-cooled condenser option. I recall that the electrician did not get it right the first time and we ended up with a second circuit and a second disconnect to power that part. You can probably disregard if you don't have that option.

Do you have a sizable electrical service to your pole barn? I hope so. This is significant power.

I looked up the information on the replacement safety valve that I installed. The OE 17# valve is just too close to the 15.5 PSI upper operating pressure and bleeds off steam in the normal fluctuations in pressure associated with the normal operation of the pressure switch. I installed a Kunkle steam pressure release valve, 20 psi, 200 #/hr.

I see they have revised the water supply information in response to questions from people like me. If you use hard water, you will be doing a lot of maintenance. I mixed tap water of known mineral content with distilled to get to their minimum (0.25 GPG).
Yes we have a large service so I think I'm fine there, I opened up the the units side elec. Access
Panel - Red and black are on
On L-1 and L-2 so I'm pretty sure the previous owner was feeding it w240 V
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Old 07-17-2012, 03:37 PM   #39
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Appliance - 220 v or 120 v is it ???


That's good. IIRC, it is a little tedious to get in there and change the connections. That will save you some electrician time. At any rate, it would be good to download the manual so you can have your electrician look over the terminal block while installing the electrical service. You could email him the whole thing so he might be able to bring the right cables, breakers, disconnect and assorted hardware to do the job in one trip with any kind of luck.
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Old 07-17-2012, 04:45 PM   #40
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Appliance - 220 v or 120 v is it ???


YesI will do that Ionized , and thanks for all the helpful info. Re the pressure valve and water mixture etc. ..............sounds like you've had som experience with this appliance. ? Mind if I ask what u were using it for ? As I mentioned I'm doing some tissue culture with plants.........mainly Hostas

My relief valve looks diff than the manuals - it may have been changed as well , I'll try and post a pic. Thanks again !
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Old 07-17-2012, 05:50 PM   #41
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My relief valve looks diff than the manuals - it may have been changed as well , I'll try and post a pic. Thanks again !
We needed it to do some bacteriological medium, liquid and agar, to screen some lambda libraries a few years ago. It was a big improvement over the pressure cooker-type pot we used before that.

IIRC, I installed the sterilizer and found that the safety valve was going nearly continuously as the sterilizer reached the upper range of the pressure control. I contacted the company and they sold us a revised valve that worked a little better, but we were still losing too much steam. They thing would be nearly dry before the cycle was done. I went out on my own and and bought the 20# valve.

Don't bother with the pic. We still have the sterilizer but it is buried in a storage unit. We have access to a live steam model now :thumb up:

Keep in mind that these things look identical to steam cookers that Market Forge sells to commercial kitchens.

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