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Old 12-31-2012, 04:08 AM   #16
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AC to DC needed


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What's your overall goal here? "92Ecto" -- Are you by chance one of the replica Ghostbusters vehicle guys?
Yes sir, I have already built the whole deal. Howd you guess? My car has been entered into Carl Caspers 50th Anniversary auto show, and 2 conventions have asked me to bring it out.
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Old 12-31-2012, 11:52 AM   #17
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AC to DC needed


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Switching power supply, Would be same as a PC Power supply? If i have 3 that carry the needed amerage, could i hook up the 3 PC Power supplies to run the units?
You could. However, most PC supplies are intended to produce far more output at 5V than at 12V. Usually they are rated for something like 50A at 5V and 8A at 12V. They also tend to have annoying "foldback" overcurrent protection that will shut the supply down if you have current spikes - like from turning on an incandescent lamp. I think using computer power supplies in this application would be too annoying to deal with. It's worth spending a couple hundred on a dedicated 12V power supply.
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Old 12-31-2012, 11:55 AM   #18
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AC to DC needed


I did forget to mention, i am replaing all 17 of the 55w halogen bulbs with LED/SMD lights. so i should go from 3amps per bulbs down to .01. I assume this should be a significant aid in decreasing power draw, without loosing to many lumens.
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Old 12-31-2012, 02:17 PM   #19
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AC to DC needed


Well that's a pretty important change. Although I doubt the current will be that low. An LED replacement for a 55W halogen is probably a 6W load or so, or about half an amp at 12V. I'd say to do all your conversions, measure the actual load in the final configuration, and size the supply based on that. If you get it down to 20A or so, a car battery with a charger connected to it will do the job.
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Old 12-31-2012, 02:25 PM   #20
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AC to DC needed


each rotator is 5amps each with the current setup. i believe the new bulbs are 210mA
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