Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Electrical

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 05-12-2014, 08:28 PM   #1
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 12
Rewards Points: 0
Share |
Default

A200 Hobart Mixer


It just hums when switching it on. While off, the motor seems to move freely but when I switch it on, it just freezes.

I replaced the electronic switch and starter cap but no change. The motor coils measure 9 ohms on yellow to yellow and 8 ohms yellow to black.

There is no centrifugal switch that I can see.

Any ideas?
Attached Thumbnails
A200 Hobart Mixer-a200-es-switch.jpg   A200 Hobart Mixer-a200-mixer.jpg  


Last edited by Scalerwave; 05-12-2014 at 08:31 PM.
Scalerwave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2014, 08:49 PM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 693
Rewards Points: 0
Default

A200 Hobart Mixer


yellow to yellow, yellow to black?

http://www.hobartservice.com/service-plans/default.aspx

ritelec is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2014, 09:43 PM   #3
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 45
Rewards Points: 0
Default

A200 Hobart Mixer


All hobart equipment has an ml# material listing # that id's the proper parts and electrical build.
There should be a schematic on the rear motor cover of the unit.

Last edited by Focused2; 05-12-2014 at 10:11 PM.
Focused2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2014, 11:11 PM   #4
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 45
Rewards Points: 0
Default

A200 Hobart Mixer


That relay you replaced is the start relay that acts like a motor start switch (centrifugal switch) on a typical motor. Found an image that shows what the resistance should be. Shows four leads you only mention 3?
Attached Thumbnails
A200 Hobart Mixer-image-3816651914.jpg  
Focused2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2014, 12:39 PM   #5
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 12
Rewards Points: 0
Default

A200 Hobart Mixer


T1 and J1 are the same point. One of them goes straight to neutral and the other to the ES switch.

J1 is a yellow wire coming from the motor winding as is K1. T4 is a black wire.

Using the ES switch terminals as a guide I get:

J1 to K1 equals 9.1 ohms

J1 to T4 equals 1.4 ohms

K1 to T4 equals 8.1 ohms

Across Hot to Neutral at the power plug, I get 1.4 ohms with the power switch on.
( unplugged of course )

I don't have a wiring diagram that matches my mixer but this one doesn't use the 2 pole relay or timer. All I have is power plug, on/off switch, ES switch, Cap, motor windings.

From the looks of your diagram though, the motor appears to be good.

What would cause it not to start though? Good motor, new ES switch, and new cap. ??????

Quote:
Originally Posted by Focused2 View Post
That relay you replaced is the start relay that acts like a motor start switch (centrifugal switch) on a typical motor. Found an image that shows what the resistance should be. Shows four leads you only mention 3?

Last edited by Scalerwave; 05-13-2014 at 12:46 PM.
Scalerwave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2014, 04:09 PM   #6
Licensed Electrical Cont.
 
Speedy Petey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: NY State
Posts: 6,826
Rewards Points: 0
Default

A200 Hobart Mixer


I have to say, I am very impressed with the replies in this thread.
__________________
Sometimes I feel like if I answer any more questions it is like someone trying to climb over a fence to jump off a bridge and me giving them a boost.
Answers based on the 2008 & 2011 NEC.
Speedy Petey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2014, 10:51 PM   #7
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 45
Rewards Points: 0
Default

A200 Hobart Mixer


Here is a schematic that sounds like what you have , do some double checking on the wiring and go from there.

I would have a tech open up the transmission as it may be something simple. Broken gear or key in the transmission, part of a broken part can float around in the grease and finally cause a bind. Bad thing is it takes a bit of time to do as the unit uses grease instead of oil.
Unplug the unit, and grab the lower shaft and try to move it around manually in first gear then try second gear any bind when you turn will tell you you may have a transmission issue. If you sense a bind do not try to start as you may take out the motor stator. Just use good judgement as a motor repair I'm sure is costly.
Attached Thumbnails
A200 Hobart Mixer-image-2925000252.jpg  

Last edited by Focused2; 05-13-2014 at 11:11 PM.
Focused2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2014, 12:29 AM   #8
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 45
Rewards Points: 0
Default

A200 Hobart Mixer


One other thing is to make sure the cover and spacer at the rear of the rotor are in place as the rotor of the motor may want to travel back and cause a bind in the transmission.
Focused2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2014, 07:35 AM   #9
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 12
Rewards Points: 0
Default

A200 Hobart Mixer


I pulled it apart and rechecked the wiring several times but didn't find anything out of the ordinary. I put it back together and as always, found the sweet spot for the back cover before tighening the screws. I flipped the switch and it worked. I felt like I was in an episode of the Twightlight Zone. I switched it on and off a few times trying the different gear settings and it started each time although each time it started, there was a gravelly sound at start up that disappeared quickly.

Then, finally, one time it didn't start... just a hum. I switched it off and pushed the rotor and it was stiff. I did work it out so it would spin again but every time I tried starting, it would find that sticky spot and stop. It seems that you're right. Something is up with the transmission. No idea what yet.

I pulled the back off again to double check the spacer and the bearing but the bearing seems fine and the spacer is definitely in place so no issues there from what I can see.

I found a Youtube video that shows step by step, how to disassemble the gear box. I'll see what I can find out.

Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.

Search "A200 Hobart Service". I couldn't post the link here.
Scalerwave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2014, 08:36 AM   #10
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 12
Rewards Points: 0
Default

A200 Hobart Mixer


Here's the link to the Hobart video:

Scalerwave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2014, 03:09 PM   #11
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 12
Rewards Points: 0
Default

A200 Hobart Mixer


I pulled the gears apart but didn't find anything that looked worn. The workmanship that went into this machine is amazing. The grease was a bit dry in places but not bad overall. I couldn't find any bad bearings either.

I tried the motor while I had everthing out and noticed that the momentary grinding sound at the initial startup was still there however the motor seemed to freewheel smoothly when stopping. The rear bearing looked fine and although I couldn't get at the front bearing, it seemed to roll smoothly as well.

I put it all back together and it ran fine. Checking the back cover screws, I remembered that I left the bottom 2 screws a loose, earlier when I was checking for wiring problems. The top 2 screws were tight though. The strange thing is, after tightening the bottom screws, the problem came back immediately. On startup, the motor made it's momentary grinding sound and then locked up tight. I worked it free after killing the power and tried again but it locked right up again.

I loosened the bottom screws of the back cover again and the motor started up ok. Either there is something up with the motor bearings or something else wrong with the alignment of the rotor. I heard that the tolerance on that rotor is really tight but other than leaving the bottom screws loose, I'm not sure what to do from here.
Scalerwave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2014, 08:20 PM   #12
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 45
Rewards Points: 0
Default

A200 Hobart Mixer


There is a spring (item 60) behind the motor shaft worm that sometimes breaks and it allows the gear to travel back and forth during start-up. I would take the top cover off again and inspect that spring. It keeps that brass worm wheel and worm gear meshed properly. -
Attached Thumbnails
A200 Hobart Mixer-image-1780394140.jpg  

Last edited by Focused2; 05-14-2014 at 08:36 PM.
Focused2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 06:46 AM   #13
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 12
Rewards Points: 0
Default

A200 Hobart Mixer


It looks like the spring is ok. There is only the slightest bit of play in the worm gear when trying to move it back and forth.

The mixer seems to be working fine for now. I'm just gonna use it like this and worry about it later when/if it stops for some reason.

Thanks for all the assistance.


Last edited by Scalerwave; 05-15-2014 at 06:54 AM.
Scalerwave is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.